Welp, it happened. I blew my front diff (1 Viewer)

ga12r1

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Another lesson learned: do not follow Lee up trail #30 - in fact wheeling Windrock in wet weather .... wait , it never dries out there😂
I was actually following Aaron 🤪

But yeah, it was wet. I bet just as much or more rain than at GSMTR last year. The trails are really in bad shape up there right now. There was a group of 7 jeeps on 40s ahead of us on 30 and they really laid down some ruts....
 

AlpineAccess

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If I was in your exact situation including budget I would do a replacement stock 3rd member in and when the tires wear out I'd go to 33s and some small spacers so you get the look you want.
 

abuck99

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I decided (and due to a fat tax return last year) to go with an ARB front. Out of an abundance of caution, I ended up buying all new gears and internals to go with it, plus an air compressor.

If I didn't feel the utility for the compressor, I would have done an elocker.

The philosophy was to never blow the front diff again. Locking it in bad conditions will make sure it doesn't happen.
I was actually following Aaron 🤪

But yeah, it was wet. I bet just as much or more rain than at GSMTR last year. The trails are really in bad shape up there right now. There was a group of 7 jeeps on 40s ahead of us on 30 and they really laid down some ruts....
I think that obstacle is really misleading. Instinct says keep far left and do a 4pt turn to get straightened out on the trail. But the line looks easier staying to the right. Guess that spot should be named: DIFF Breaker.

Yeah so many of those goat trails up there are worked over by SXS and Buggy's- and then when fat- wide- heavy 100's (or 200's) go through there you really have to think about your line and go easy on the pedal.
 

ga12r1

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I think that obstacle is really misleading. Instinct says keep far left and do a 4pt turn to get straightened out on the trail. But the line looks easier staying to the right. Guess that spot should be named: DIFF Breaker.

Yeah so many of those goat trails up there are worked over by SXS and Buggy's- and then when fat- wide- heavy 100's (or 200's) go through there you really have to think about your line and go easy on the pedal.
Yeah, last time I went back in December I used Crawl Control and went right up unlocked while the 100 in our group had to do the bypass. This time I didn't even try it after Aaron blew his diff. I didn't want compound the issues we were looking at. You know how that goes.

I was able to lock up and get over the second obstacle with the tree on the right though. 😎
 

OwnerCS

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Clearing up a myth, I've run my front Harrop in forward and reverse without issue. I drive through heavy gumbo mud where the front locker makes a nice difference. LSD for the rear still works.

Isn't there a wiring mod to allow the truck to run in 4-LO without automatically engaging the diff-locker.?

 

ga12r1

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Clearing up a myth, I've run my front Harrop in forward and reverse without issue. I drive through heavy gumbo mud where the front locker makes a nice difference. LSD for the rear still works.

Isn't there a wiring mod to allow the truck to run in 4-LO without automatically engaging the diff-locker.?

I will say that I have a had one of the few Harrop/Eaton E-locker failures in the States and I had to pay the labor to have the locker replaced. @aaronrules knows about this and is figuring that into his decision. As for me I will not be going back with Harrop/Eaton when it fails again. TJM or ARB for me.
 

Kabanstva

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I will say that I have a had one of the few Harrop/Eaton E-locker failures in the States and I had to pay the labor to have the locker replaced. @aaronrules knows about this and is figuring that into his decision. As for me I will not be going back with Harrop/Eaton when it fails again. TJM or ARB for me.
On your old LX or your current 200?
 

ga12r1

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On your old LX or your current 200?
On the 200. Rear locker developed indentations on the ramp plate causing the pins to hang up an be unable to slide along the ramp to engage the lock plate.. The indentations were on all 3 ramps on the forward side but none on the reverse side. Is it would lock in reverse but not forward.
 

Kabanstva

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On the 200. Rear locker developed indentations on the ramp plate causing the pins to hang up an be unable to slide along the ramp to engage the lock plate.. The indentations were on all 3 ramps on the forward side but none on the reverse side. Is it would lock in reverse but not forward.
I’m thinking what lockers to get on mine. Was leaning towards the harrop but might just do ARB if you recommend that route. I know you have way more experience with them than I do.
 

ga12r1

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I’m thinking what lockers to get on mine. Was leaning towards the harrop but might just do ARB if you recommend that route. I know you have way more experience with them than I do.
Well I cant personally recommend ARB or TJM because Ive never ran them. What I can say is ive had a Harrop/Eaton failure. Im sure Harrop/Eaton would be fine for most people but I push my 200 harder than most. All I can recommend is really doing the research before you buy. Watch Australian Youtube videos and read the comments. They have a lot of experience with 100 series lockers over there. Way more than us here in the States. All lockers have there pros and cons, just gotta figure out what works for you.
 
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Kabanstva

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Well I cant really recommend ARB or TJM because Ive never ran them. What I can say is ive had a Harrop/Eaton failure. Im sure Harrop/Eaton would be fine for most people but I push my 200 harder than most. All I can recommend is really doing the research before you buy. Watch Australian Youtube videos and read the comments. They have a lot of experience with 100 series lockers over there. Way more than us here in the States. All lockers have there pros and cons, just gotta figure out what works for you.
That’s good advice man thanks!
 

MongooseGA

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I would have gone TJM if it was in-stock when I was purchasing. I never considered ARB, way too many issues being reported for me that would have been ruled out by either of the other 2 options.

Having said that, I've been happy with my Eatons thus far. They got a work out in Tennessee last weekend and didn't disappoint.

I'd also been concerned about the engaging/disengaging issues that people mention with the e-lockers, but can attest that I've not experienced any of those issues in my truck.

I don't regret my e-lockers at this time. I don't regret the 4.88 gears, either, but I wouldn't make them an insane priority in a 5-speed truck. The difference to me, IMO, was negligible on 34" tires.
 

MongooseGA

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We're gonna have to implement a code system to determine how much damage someone is willing to take from a trail, and how much money they're willing to spend to fix the damage.

Ex:

Windrock trail 30: This is a level 6/10 for damage, and it may cost you up to $5K to repair it.

So trail 30 is a 6/5k.

You can all thank me later when you're watching your richer, stupider friends returning from gnarly trails with broken stuff while you drink a beer at camp.
 
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We're gonna have to implement a code system to determine how much damage someone is willing to take from a trail, and how much money they're willing to spend to fix the damage.

Ex:

Windrock trail 30: This is a level 6/10 for damage, and it may cost you up to $5K to repair it.

So trail 30 is a 6/5k.

You can all thank me later when you're watching your richer, stupider friends returning from gnarly trails with broken stuff while you drink a beer at camp.
I do something similar when I mountain bike. I stand at the top, figure out how many days of sick time I have, how much of my yearly insurance out of pocket is left, and whether or not it could create an injury severe enough that I couldn't wipe my own butt with TP. I add that all up and then decide if I am going to ride it. :)
 
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Clearing up a myth, I've run my front Harrop in forward and reverse without issue. I drive through heavy gumbo mud where the front locker makes a nice difference. LSD for the rear still works.

Isn't there a wiring mod to allow the truck to run in 4-LO without automatically engaging the diff-locker.?
What myth are you clearing up? That all front lockers can be used in reverse? That only Harrops fronts can be used in reverse?
Number of posts here about front locked diffs breaking in reverse, I watched one locked with an ARB break backing up on Rose Garden Hill.
The Harrops look like they have a little give to support differences in wheel rotation, compared to other lockers, but not so sure that makes them bulletproof.
Diffs typically are stronger in forward direction. Having the steering turned greatly increases stress on diff. Ring and pinion are what breaks, not the locker.
Would think there are situations where the "give" in the Harrop is used up and R&P becomes the fuse.
 

sammybones

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Long story shortish, I went to Windrock with @ga12r1 to do some scouting for some stuff that may be happening later in the year. Well, he LOVES trail 30 and that was the first one we did one the first day and that where I blew my diff. I can’t remember the other person who blew a diff on the same trail...on the same obstacle...because Lee loves that trail, but I think we both can claim it’s his fault. 🥴 Anyway he did save my bacon and helped (actually did all the work) in pulling the front drive shaft and drive flanges and I am driving it home today. A 10 hour drive!

I’ve got the caps ordered from @BenCC and will get them installed as soon as they come in. Thanks Ben!

I wanted to solicit some opinions and ideas on how I should proceed going forward.
Just a little bit my situation:


2006 LX with 207k on the odo. I’ve put about 60k of those miles on it.
1) I don’t see any reason for me to even stop owning this truck and using it as my daily driver as well as my “do dumb stuff” truck. I’m never going to stop doing what some people may call dumb stuff.
2) I’m not loaded and money is tight. Even after taxes and the stimmy.
3) I’m currently running like 34.6” tires, but on my next tire purchase I am going to go with true 35’s.
4) With the vvti and the extra gear I’m not sure if regearing is necessary, but I want opinions on this from people who have done it.

So I think there are very many options and variables for this decision. Everyone would love to be triple locked regeared running 35’s and I would as well. It’s the not knowing if the regearing is worth it. All this stuff is going to cost more than the blue book value of my truck!

So maybe this wasn’t a long story short, but that’s why you guys like me! 😬

Let me know what you all think. Also anybody have any recommendations on a shop within a decent distance of the Fort Smith, AR area? Also, any vendors want to reach out and do a partnership? I’m kidding, but not really. I’m kind of a big deal and partnering with me can bring a lot of good traffic you way! 🥺
Sadly I was the other guy.
 

sammybones

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I’ve got an 04 and re-geared and put in front and rear Eatons. I’m not running as big of tires as some (275/70/18 Copper STT Pro’s) so I could tell a big difference after re-gearing.

As soon as I got my lockers in I went back to Windrock for revenge. I was pretty dumb and trusted a the guy I met up there who will remain nameless and followed him down some trails I definitely shouldn’t have (no, it wasn’t Lee). The lockers did great and got me off the trail thank god. However i sustained a lot of body damage.
 

ga12r1

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I’ve got an 04 and re-geared and put in front and rear Eatons. I’m not running as big of tires as some (275/70/18 Copper STT Pro’s) so I could tell a big difference after re-gearing.

As soon as I got my lockers in I went back to Windrock for revenge. I was pretty dumb and trusted a the guy I met up there who will remain nameless and followed him down some trails I definitely shouldn’t have (no, it wasn’t Lee). The lockers did great and got me off the trail thank god. However i sustained a lot of body damage.
Didn't you guys run 12? Thats a super long Black IIRC😵
 

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