Webasto install HDJ81

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i "T" the original line on all my installs and have had no issues ...

could be i am lucky.
I T'd into the return line right where it enters the fuel tank. Seems to be working well.

I had previously tapped into the fuel feed line and was having trouble with the line loosing pressure and causing the fuel to drain back into the tank.
 
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I T'd into the return line right where it enters the fuel tank. Seems to be working well.

I had previously tapped into the fuel feed line and was having trouble with the line loosing pressure and causing the fuel to drain back into the tank.
I installed a other suction tube into the tank.
 

lumpy70

 
 
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I might have missed this cause I'm occupying 2 kids right now, but eblanc; did you plumb the coolant circuit through the engine thermostat? If so that could be where your problme is, thermostat is blocking the flow.

Just a thought.

Craig
 

Fromage

 
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Yeah, running the 6BT for half an hour with the exhaust brake on for a 5 minute shower is a little excessive :D

I would like to have some sort of water setup for the next interation of the 6BT rover. A heat exchanger on a coolant loop that goes through the Webasto, with a 12V pump so you can draw from jerry cans, streams, etc. Nothing fancy or that is not self-draining because of frost etc, but there is nothing like having lots of hot water at camp...

Nothing you wouldn't expect. The larger units are a bit louder, use more fuel and about 3x the battery power. I'm not sure even the largest units will heat mountain stream water to shower temp at 2gal/minute. You'll probably have to cycle it through a holding tank (rubbermaid bin) first.

<chuckling to myself>I was thinking about using an engine coolant heat exchanger shower. If your Cummins is like mine it runs so cool at idle that the intake heater will cycle while showering. You'd be better off to just get a 100AMP 12V immersion heater and go electric.
 
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I might have missed this cause I'm occupying 2 kids right now, but eblanc; did you plumb the coolant circuit through the engine thermostat? If so that could be where your problme is, thermostat is blocking the flow.

Just a thought.

Craig
You see this diagram, the webasto is "inline" located where the outlet arrow is of the power heater.

I have never opened up a power heater or viscous heater, but i do not think there is a impeller that could block circulation of the coolant in there. Other option would be to T inlet and outlet of webasto to the lines going to the cabin heat exchanger, doing that would not heat up the block.

My setup might be operating correctly, it is probably just not as efficient as i though it would be.

 

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
SILVER Star
 
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Not to hijack, but wouldn't an exhaust/water heat exchanger work for a shower in that rover? I was just thinking that the exhaust at idle is around 200-300 degrees which would heat water as well as collant from an engine.

I'm just thinking out loud, but maybe it s a good idea?
 

Fromage

 
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Not to hijack, but wouldn't an exhaust/water heat exchanger work for a shower in that rover? I was just thinking that the exhaust at idle is around 200-300 degrees which would heat water as well as collant from an engine.

I'm just thinking out loud, but maybe it s a good idea?
It would probably work great at idle but would have to be switched off on the highway and drained. It would be good for a dedicated water only exchanger. The idea with the Webasto is to avoid having to run the truck. The damn thing is as loud as a bus at idle. In camp it gets annoying and it wastes a lot of fuel. The webasto does one thing, heat, and the energy savings would be noticeable I am sure.

Anyways, sorry for hijacking this thread.

Eleblanc, does your truck have an external coolant pump? What is the "power heater"? Sorry if this has been covered before...
 
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Won't your exhaust get thrashed in the fender well? (i.e. gravel roads, mud, general offroading, snow/ice build-up in winter, etc......)

I'm installing an Espar D5 in the same place and am sweat'n running the exhaust like you and Wayne. But that is the easiest route.

Or maybe I'm being paranoid? :frown:
possibly....but it is a cheap item to replace, also it is not in direct firing line of mud/rocks coming off tire so I think it will be ok. Where the exhaust exits is important as it is very hot. We have a peculiar type of mud here in Alberta called "Gumbo" that can sit in the inner fender walls upto 6" thick! Modern pickups with the cheap plastic fender liners held on with plastic grommets just get ripped off with the weight of mud (including the Toyota Tundra) - these sort of conditions exist on oilfield/logging roads after it rains etc.
 

crushers

post ho
 
 
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humm, i showed you what works, if it isn't working for you then route the heating lines as shown ...

it really is that simple.
 
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Out of all the cold winters I've spent growing up in Idaho, I've never heard of a Webasto! What a cool thing to have in your car though! If only you could activate it by remote... ;)
 
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Out of all the cold winters I've spent growing up in Idaho, I've never heard of a Webasto! What a cool thing to have in your car though! If only you could activate it by remote... ;)
The remote activation kit is pretty expensive. You can usually rig something up using the aux function on most remote car starters.
 
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That is what i'll be doing. I've bypassed 2 wires going to the ignition switch and one relay in the engine compartiement fuse box. So now when i flip my toggle switch to start the webasto, i'm using the "on" signal wire from the webasto to drive relays that start my automatic climate control. So when the webasto runs the ventilation to heat the cabin runs. And since i'm using the on signal from the webasto if the batteries goes down to 10.5 V, every will shut down, the climate ventilation included. Since it is automatic, if the coolant is cold the fan doesn't run. When the coolant is hot it will run at hi until preset temperature is reach in cab, then will go down to "lo" or what ever is needed to keep temperature.

This week i'll be installing a remote car alarm with 3000' range and will use it to remote start the webasto.

The remote activation kit is pretty expensive. You can usually rig something up using the aux function on most remote car starters.
 

lumpy70

 
 
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Checked with some friends last night, at least four install in 80 series in town here are done the following way:

Coolant pulled from the back of the power heater (in line with flow), into front heater core, through the core and back into the top of the head at the back. This forces the coolant through the heater core and the head. We're all happy with the results. You need to have the temp slider adjusted to HOT for this setup to work or there is no loop, it just goes into the heater core and stops.

If you are getting some warmth it shows it is working. you may have something blocking the flow and just getting heat conduction rather than convection, or maybe not.

Not sure what your expectations for the unit are, but after 20-30 minutes of running in the coldest tempuratures, I get a start just like summer, and luke warm air out fo the heater. The air gets hot with 5 min of driving, as opposed to 25 min.

For me the big deal is the EASY starts, no excessive cranking, no glowing etc.

To each their own.

Craig
Webasto diagram.jpg
 
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I must clarify, i do get heat. Starting is also like in the summer, no engine owling due to cold start. BUT when temperature are lower then -15 deg C. The webasto is still running almost full output after one hour, probably because during that hour i have the cab heater running. Maybe to compare with experience from people in this thread i should let the webasto run during cold temp -15 deg C and lower WITHOUT the cabin heater and see if the webasto goes into lowest output or even shutdown because it reach it upper temp limit.

Craig, does the HDJ8X have the power heater? i though it only came with the FTE engine.

But the main reason i bought the webasto is for easy start in cold weather and a minimum of cabin heat, and this is what i get but the webasto must run full output.
 

lumpy70

 
 
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I must clarify, i do get heat. Starting is also like in the summer, no engine owling due to cold start. BUT when temperature are lower then -15 deg C. The webasto is still running almost full output after one hour, probably because during that hour i have the cab heater running. Maybe to compare with experience from people in this thread i should let the webasto run during cold temp -15 deg C and lower WITHOUT the cabin heater and see if the webasto goes into lowest output or even shutdown because it reach it upper temp limit.

Craig, does the HDJ8X have the power heater? i though it only came with the FTE engine.

But the main reason i bought the webasto is for easy start in cold weather and a minimum of cabin heat, and this is what i get but the webasto must run full output.
Sorry, I wasn't paying attention to that part, no the 1HD-T doesn't have the power heater. the circuit is the same however.

I would try it without the fan on and see how it works.

Craig.
 
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I just spoke with a technical representative with webasto and i beleive i have solved my problem. He told me that the kit i got was set for 120 deg F, if i wanted to run it at 165 deg F i needed to relocate a wire in the 6 pin connector of the webasto. I did just that and the temperature now reads just a bit under normal running temperature alot higher then before. Before on the cluster gauge it would barely read any higher the needle is at the bottom, now it is just under when it is completely hot!!!

I haven't check the amount of time needed to reach that point but will report back.

So for the record, the black wire on pin number 3 need to be relocated to pin number 1.
 

lumpy70

 
 
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I just spoke with a technical representative with webasto and i beleive i have solved my problem. He told me that the kit i got was set for 120 deg F, if i wanted to run it at 165 deg F i needed to relocate a wire in the 6 pin connector of the webasto. I did just that and the temperature now reads just a bit under normal running temperature alot higher then before. Before on the cluster gauge it would barely read any higher the needle is at the bottom, now it is just under when it is completely hot!!!

I haven't check the amount of time needed to reach that point but will report back.

So for the record, the black wire on pin number 3 need to be relocated to pin number 1.
Interesting. The 6-pin connector is the one with the fuses hanging off the unit?

Craig
 
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