Waterpump pulley help

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Ok, was just trying to avoid having truck apart while waiting. Kinda thought it may b something others have dealt with. If I have to dick w the water pump, do I have to do the timing? Im not remotely comfortable in my abilities to go that in depth w it
 
Take it apart and find the issue.
It's 4 nuts on 4 studs.
Again, the exploded view is in post 9.

Remove the belts.
Remove the 4 12mm nuts that fasten the fan clutch to the rotating assembly, and it all comes apart.

The fan/fan clutch comes out with the fan shroud to avoid damaging the radiator fins.
Then you're left with the pulley hanging on the studs on the water pump flange.

It's all held together by those 4 12mm nuts on the water pump studs. There's no magic here.



I hope this actually sends it
 



I hope this actually sends it

FINALLY I GOT THE VIDEO TO LOAD

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Ok, was just trying to avoid having truck apart while waiting. Kinda thought it may b something others have dealt with. If I have to dick w the water pump, do I have to do the timing? Im not remotely comfortable in my abilities to go that in depth w it
Woa. Slow down.
Nothing to do with timing here.
You're not removing the water pump at this point.
You're removing the fan/fan clutch and the pulley to inspect why things are loose.
Diagnose the issue. This is not invasive and will not effect anything else.

And the water pump has nothing to do with timing in any case.
 
Woa. Slow down.
Nothing to do with timing here.
You're not removing the water pump at this point.
You're removing the fan/fan clutch and the pulley to inspect why things are loose.
Diagnose the issue. This is not invasive and will not effect anything else.

And the water pump has nothing to do with timing in any case.
Oh alright, based on my vid that I was finally able to upload 2 posts ago, is there enough play for me to even worry? And take the time to tear it apart
 
Oh alright, based on my vid that I was finally able to upload 2 posts ago, is there enough play for me to even worry? And take the time to tear it apart
I didn't watch the video. I don't have to.
Any lateral play in any of the spinning bits is bad.
Find the issue.
 
I didn't watch the video. I don't have to.
Any lateral play in any of the spinning bits is bad.
Find the issue.
Cool alright, bum knee and all ill dig into it. Thought mud was where the experts were to help rather than only advice of "idk, only way to know is to dig into it"
 
Cool alright, bum knee and all ill dig into it. Thought mud was where the experts were to help rather than only advice of "idk, only way to know is to dig into it"
I'm not sure how to respond to that.
You asked, I answered. I told you EXACTLY what and how to do it.
It's 4 nuts that hold 2 pieces to a rotating flange.

Look at the picture. The pulley sits on top of the water pump flange. The 4 studs go through the 4 holes on the pulley face. Then the 4 studs go through the base of the fan clutch which sits on top of the pulley face. The 4 12mm nuts secure the assembly to the water pump flange.
This isn't rocket science here.

If you can't figure this out, or you don't have the time or inclination to do it yourself, then perhaps it's time to get someone local to do it for you.
Reach out to the Keystone Cruisers in the clubhouse section. They're based in PA.

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I just replaced my radiator and in doing so took off fan pulley. If that pulley is loose either the four nuts holding it are loose or pump bearing shot. If pump bearing shot replace pump. Bearing loose will destroy seal and at high way speed you loose all coolant in seconds then overheat your engine and may warp type head. Had this happen on a BMW m42 engine but I was at stop light and stopped engine in time. I had never noticed loose bearing as it had never leaked until total failure. Pump not expensive and job not too difficult
 
I just replaced my radiator and in doing so took off fan pulley. If that pulley is loose either the four nuts holding it are loose or pump bearing shot. If pump bearing shot replace pump. Bearing loose will destroy seal and at high way speed you loose all coolant in seconds then overheat your engine and may warp type head. Had this happen on a BMW m42 engine but I was at stop light and stopped engine in time. I had never noticed loose bearing as it had never leaked until total failure. Pump not expensive and job not too difgicult
Thank you. I grabbed the pulley and tried moving all 4 bolts. Its tight. So must be the pump, which is good. I ordered an aisan one last night assuming the worst. Pulley can be reused? And to make sure i can do it in my yard, I dont have to mess with timing at all changing the wp? 1st thing i gotta do is drain the coolant and then undo fan shroud, the 4 bolts, take fan out then undo pulley? Then the bolts for wp? With the play it has in the most recent vid, can I drive it for a few days so I dont have to deal w clutch w an injured knee?
 
Thank you. I grabbed the pulley and tried moving all 4 bolts. Its tight. So must be the pump, which is good. I ordered an aisan one last night assuming the worst. Pulley can be reused? And to make sure i can do it in my yard, I dont have to mess with timing at all changing the wp? 1st thing i gotta do is drain the coolant and then undo fan shroud, the 4 bolts, take fan out then undo pulley? Then the bolts for wp? With the play it has in the most recent vid, can I drive it for a few days so I dont have to deal w clutch w an injured knee?
Yes. Pulley can be reused. Fan pulley held on by four nuts hard to get to. Use proper size open end wrench. I think they were 10 mm. They may be tight but when reinstalling do not overtighten. As you say empty coolant. Best to just undo lower radiator hose as pulling rad drain plug has high chance of damaging radiator. To pull fan shroud you must first take of fan there is not enough clearance to pull shroud with fan in. Note four nuts hold fan and also hold te pulley. Loosen all belts going to pump pulley before you start the job. I just finished my rad replace and left shroud out to check for leaks. I will need to take off fan before I can install shroud. Keep track of water pump bolts as I remember them being different lengths. Also there are two hoses on the pum. Plan to replace them and hose clamps. Hard to get to. When installing new pump gasket face must be clean of old gasket and do not nick face with scraper. Can use a solvent to wipe down after clean

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I think yours in 94. My is same up to 93. Yours looks like you do not have the hoses connected to water pump like my 92. So yours is a lot easier. Same method just no hoses. Recommend spraying all bolts and nuts you plan to remove with a penetrating oil a few days before removal. The water pump aluminum and bolts steel can lead to hard to remove fasteners
 
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I think yours in 94. My is same up to 93. Yours looks like you do not have the hoses connected to water pump like my 92. So yours is a lot easier. Same method just no hoses. Recommend spraying all bolts and nuts you plan to remove with a penetrating oil a few days before removal. The water pump aluminum and bolts steel can lead to hard to remove fasteners
Good deal, ill stsrt tomorrow w soaking them. Ur belts r ran different as well, I assume u have an ac unit? Lol. The 2 belts mine uses, were both routed the exact same which seemed odd to me but assumed it was right from po.
 
Another tip. For the water pump bolts that go into engine. Before installing bolts. Spray holes with solvent based degreaser and anti sieze on new bolts
 
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Good deal, I’ll stsrt tomorrow w soaking them. Ur belts r ran different as well, I assume u have an ac unit? Lol. The 2 belts mine uses, were both routed the exact same which seemed odd to me but assumed it was right from po.
Yes. So I removed the air pump and found two belts of different lengths that I could install and still use the alternator pulley to tension. Make a note of the belts you have as they may not be oem and if you replace you need to know what you need. Yes I have ac.
 
You should get something like Haynes manual so you know water pump bolt torques. Use good tools and 6 point sockets of right size. If a bolt seems to hard to remove use some pb blaster and let it set a few days. You do not want to break or round off bolt or nut
 
As John held stated. The 4 fan bolts are 12 mm. I had said 10. Just take the job slow if you run into a problem or something does not seem right let us know. Hardest part is probably removing old nuts and bolts due to corrosion. Clean threads of all before reassembly. Also. Be prepared for bolts and nuts falling to ground. Especially the fan pulley nuts. You may have to start the with needle nose plyers as they are impossible to to hold due to limited clearance. Put a tarp on ground of working on grass or dirt
 
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Should also point out keep the fan pulley belts tight until you break loose all four nuts. Then loosen belts and remove nuts. Otherwise the pulley will spin as you try to break loose the nuts. Also lot of sharp things here to cut your hand like the fan blades and fan clutch housing with its cooling fins. Wear gloves
 
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Why in the world would anyone recommend any service manual other than the FREE copy of the manufacturer's service manual, hosted here?

And for the OP, please read the manual. All the combined wisdom, or what passes for it, in all the internet fora in the world pales by comparison.
 
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