VCS engages on normal right turns. Why?

[Jwoodywild]

My wheel is off center to the left by about 20 degrees (guessing) and on occasion when turning right - I was inYosemite so think mountain like roads) at about 30-35mph the VCS kicked in - its abrupt and shakes the car. It only seems to happen turning right which I assume has something to do with the wheel being off center pointed to the left. I know it thinks I am skidding but is it this likely just a steering wheel calibration issue? I have read a bunch of threads where wheels were off but nobody mentioned this kind of action.

This is a 2003 LX 470, btw. And sadly, I only own Macs so not sure I can get Techstream?

 

[TahoeZ]

A few possibilities:
- Wheel speed sensor not working properly
- Steering wheel/zero point calibration
- Loose wheel bearing
- Oversize/aggressive tires on uneven/poor pavement

Look at the big Techstream thread. There is a link and instructions for getting up and running on a mac. You can adjust/center the steering wheel yourself by adding/removing the same number of turns of the tie rods to left/right without significantly affecting toe.

 

[2001LC]

My wheel is off center to the left by about 20 degrees (guessing) and on occasion when turning right

Steering wheel?

- I was inYosemite so think mountain like roads) at about 30-35mph the VCS kicked in - its abrupt and shakes the car. It only seems to happen turning right which I assume has something to do with the wheel being off center pointed to the left. I know it thinks I am skidding but is it this likely just a steering wheel calibration issue? I have read a bunch of threads where wheels were off but nobody mentioned this kind of action.

This is a 2003 LX 470, btw. And sadly, I only own Macs so not sure I can get Techstream?

I suspect, you've more than one issue.
You need a good inspection of front-end ASAP.

• Rack & pinion mounting bushing.
• Steering intermediate shaft u-joints.
• Inner TRE (we've seen 1 in a 1,000, un-stake and walk off the rack)
• Outer TRE.
• Ball joints.
• Wheel bearings. (very common to set off VSC (ABS), if loose)
• UCA, bushing. (I've seen where bolts not torqued by alignment shop)
• LCA, bushings.
• AHC pressures in spec and front end cross leveled. (flush and adjust).
• I assume all recalls service done. If not make sure: VGRS snap recall, is done.

Once all mechanical corrected.
Zero point calibrate.
Center steering wheel electronically in tech stream. (Find some with tech stream).
Note:
Best if thread count of TRE, keep as near the same from side to side, as reasonably possible.
Clear all flags from VGRS (tech stream)
There is long calibration procedure, for VRGS. That you'll not likely need. Unless VRGS actuator or CPU has been replaced. But I do sometime, anyway. It involves staring stopping engine 15 times.

 

[Jwoodywild]

Steering wheel?


I suspect, you've more than one issue.
You need a good inspection of front-end ASAP.

• Rack & pinion mounting bushing.
• Steering intermediate shaft u-joints.
• Inner TRE (we've seen 1 in a 1,000, un-stake and walk off the rack)
• Outer TRE.
• Ball joints.
• Wheel bearings. (very common to set off VSC (ABS), if loose)
• UCA, bushing. (I've seen where bolts not torqued by alignment shop)
• LCA, bushings.
• AHC pressures in spec and front end cross leveled. (flush and adjust).
• I assume all recalls service done. If not make sure: VGRS snap recall, is done.

Once all mechanical corrected.
Zero point calibrate.
Center steering wheel electronically in tech stream. (Find some with tech stream).
Note:
Best if thread count of TRE, keep as near the same from side to side, as reasonably possible.
Clear all flags from VGRS (tech stream)
There is long calibration procedure, for VRGS. That you'll not likely need. Unless VRGS actuator or CPU has been replaced. But I do sometime, anyway. It involves staring stopping engine 15 times.

Sorry - yes, steering wheel. The AHC needs to be inspected and the torsion bar tightened most likely with fluid flushed - the ride has been bouncy. The truck had front brakes done recently and while I am not sure that a full front inspection was done nothing was noted - but who knows? I bought the truck used about 6 years ago - not sure about recalls - how is that checked?

Sorry - yes, steering wheel. The AHC needs to be inspected and the torsion bar tightened most likely with fluid flushed - the ride has been bouncy. The truck had front brakes done recently and while I am not sure that a full front inspection was done nothing was noted - but who knows? I bought the truck used about 6 years ago - not sure about recalls - how is that checked?

Also, should I disconnect the battery and try to recalibrate the wheel and see if that helps? I don't have tech stream - I am in the San Diego area.

 

[Jack90210]

Sorry - yes, steering wheel. The AHC needs to be inspected and the torsion bar tightened most likely with fluid flushed - the ride has been bouncy. The truck had front brakes done recently and while I am not sure that a full front inspection was done nothing was noted - but who knows? I bought the truck used about 6 years ago - not sure about recalls - how is that checked?

The fact that front brakes were done makes me suspect the wheel bearings.

 

[Dirt J]

I had the beeping as well pretty regularly, invoked by something as small as a lane change. It went away after I replaced my totally worn out rack and pinion and also replaced the mounting bushings.

I'll add the following to the list of electronics involved in the VSC process as potential but unlikely culprits. As these vehicles age along with these electronic systems I think we'll see more of these issues.

• Yaw rate sensor
• Steering angle sensor
• deceleration sensor
• VSC ECM itself

Worn or unevenly inflated tires could also be a cause (causing the wheel speed sensors to see too much differential between tires).

This thread details how to deactivate VSC, either temporarily/permanently or at will via a switch, if you want to go that route. It just requires grounding the pink/black wire leading to the VSC ECM to trick into thinking the center diff is locked.

 

[Jwoodywild]

I had the beeping as well pretty regularly, invoked by something as small as a lane change. It went away after I replaced my totally worn out rack and pinion and also replaced the mounting bushings.

I'll add the following to the list of electronics involved in the VSC process as potential but unlikely culprits. As these vehicles age along with these electronic systems I think we'll see more of these issues.

• Yaw rate sensor
• Steering angle sensor
• deceleration sensor
• VSC ECM itself

Worn or unevenly inflated tires could also be a cause (causing the wheel speed sensors to see too much differential between tires).

This thread details how to deactivate VSC, either temporarily/permanently or at will via a switch, if you want to go that route. It just requires grounding the pink/black wire leading to the VSC ECM to trick into thinking the center diff is locked.

Thank you. I think the real culprit is located somewhere in all of the above items. I don't mind if it just beeped but it violently tries to correct the car as it thinks is skidding and on a family roadtrip it freak out the wife and kids. It only happens to the right so the steering wheel is likely somehow related. I just hit 320,000 miles so likely a lot of items could use a refresh. Truck has been a horse otherwise for us.

 

[Dirt J]

Yep has happened to several folks on here. Could be as simple as an alignment/calibration or as complicated as multiple other smaller wear issues mentioned above compounding to cause it.

 

[Jwoodywild]

Yep has happened to several folks on here. Could be as simple as an alignment/calibration or as complicated as multiple other smaller wear issues mentioned above compounding to cause it.

Would you recommend disconnecting the battery to try and realign the wheel? Or is that not worth it given it might leave lights on, etc.?

 

[2001LC]

Sorry - yes, steering wheel. The AHC needs to be inspected and the torsion bar tightened most likely with fluid flushed - the ride has been bouncy.

For sure. To much slop (bouncy) in ACH will set off VSC. Just by driving on worn down HWY lanes.
But that does not explain steering wheel lag. R&P bushing may. But typically, steering wheel return lags, both to the right and to left when mounting bushing shot.

The truck had front brakes done recently

If rotors replaced. They pulled wheel hub off. Which shops like brake plus or INDY shop. Don't have a clue, on how to properly set the wheel bearing breakaway preload. You likely have a lot of play in wheel bearings. Likely more on one side than the other. There shouldn't be any play.

There should be zero play in wheel hub. This guy wrongly, thought he need new rotors & pad, since his ABS was kicking on, 2K miles after wheel bearing service by INDY. Rotors did get damaged, from wheel hub wobble. But it was the wobble of wheel hub, confusing wheel speed sensor, setting off ABS (VSC)


I replace a lot of lower ball joints these days:
They Knuckle & LCA should move together with zero up and down movement in ball joint.

and while I am not sure that a full front inspection was done nothing was noted - but who knows? I bought the truck used about 6 years ago - not sure about recalls - how is that checked?


Also, should I disconnect the battery and try to recalibrate the wheel and see if that helps? I don't have tech stream - I am in the San Diego area.

Sure try it. After reconnect battery negative post. Drive in a straight line. Once at about 25 MPH. VGRS will blink, then go out. Book (FSM) states: "then make normal turns". I do figure 8's as soon as VGRS light goes out.

But when steering wheel off center, because VGRS not used to center in tech stream or TRE adjust off. It tends to stay off (that 20 degrees) at all times.

Steering rack bushings:
OEM are are rubber. They should move side to side. But they should not have rips in rubber or rack lift upward. Some are so bad, we'll see total horizontal separation (rip in rubber).
These have a minor rip. (camera is hanging upside down)

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

www.youtube.com

We also look at mounting bushing inner steel bushing with hat (washer), from above. It looks like a washer with flat cut across the front. As rubber bushing wear, the washer turns.
The straight line of steel bushing(washer) should be parallel with Rack. See how this one has turned. That is sight of failing rack mounting bushing.

While one front tire on grond the other off. Wobble the tire off the ground, holding at the 3 & 9 o-clock. Feel the inner TRE by squeezing the rack TRE boot

Your feeling for two things:

• Is there any in-out play in ball of inner TRE
• Is the inner TRE still stake and firmly attached to rack. Play at mount/stake point, between rack & inner TRE, is very dangous sign.

Correctly stake inner TRE

Inner TRE un-staked. Very very dangerous. Steering wheel gives us clue. By moving from centered, off to one side (not centered). It does not return to center. In time, steering wheel moves further from center in that same direction. At some point, inner TRE become disconnect from rack and we loose control of steering on that wheel. We know of 3 cases of this, happening.

 

[2000UZJ]

Where in Atlanta are you? I have TechStream. It could be all of the mentioned above, plus a dirty ABS Ring/Speed Sensor. A Zero Point my help if your wheel is off center.

 

[Jwoodywild]

Where in Atlanta are you? I have TechStream. It could be all of the mentioned above, plus a dirty ABS Ring/Speed Sensor. A Zero Point my help if your wheel is off center.

I am actually now in San Diego = I moved but appreciate the outreach.

 

[2000UZJ]

I am actually now in San Diego = I moved but appreciate the outreach.

Ah, yeah. That's a bit far to run over

 

[Jwoodywild]

I think the culprit is the R&P bushing on the driver side. Had the car up today and no play on the left but on the right side there was a lot of play and it looks like the bushing is bad - likely from 23 years of oil dripping onto it from oil filter changes. I pulled back the bellow and no fluid inside and the power steering fluid is not going down - staying at full. I know Lexus says I must get a new rack but that is very expensive - shop quoted me $2300 today - to solve an issue with one bushing? I read the threads that said poly bushings cause VSC to trigger but rubber aftermarket (is there one?) is too loose and can cause it to trigger. So what are the options? I assume the OEM rack in the truck is the best I will get and the rest of it seems to be in good shape.

 

[2001LC]

I'll first note: When I find bushing bad and rack seals leaking. I'd advise R&P be replaced. The new R&P comes new bushings and inner TRE. In most cases, I'd also install new OEM outer TRE.
___________________________ That said_____

In your pic. Bushing is a bit hard to see, since so dirty. But does look shot. By turning steering wheel left then right about 30 degrees, while videoing bushing. I do this with both or one front tire on the ground. You'll like see rack lift and is bushing badly split.

When rack housing mounting bushing shot. We'll see steering wheel slow to come back to center after a turn. But does come back, if wheel alignment correct.

The oil on bushing/rack is coming from somewhere. Likely engine oil.

Just the bushing can be replaced. You'll find write-ups in mud on how (note: 03-07 are different than 98-02 R&P). If oil leak not stopped. Then you'll want poly bushings. Which oil soaking, won't result damaging them like rubber.

It does look like, you also have a power steering fluid leak at left rack to rack housing seal (boot). Although it is possible, engine oil leak has made to boot.

If oil was inside boot, and both boot clamps were in place, rack is leaking. If PS fluid is leaking. It means you are loosing power steering fluid (ATF). Yet you state the reservoir is full. Then, resevoir is likely so dirty in only looks full. Put a flashlight behind reservoir to backlight fluid in it so you can see. Note the 3 level indicator lines: Cold low, cold high/hot low, hot high.

When we have a leak into rack boot. It very often washes out inner TRE balls grease. Thus damaging that inner TRE.

Keep in mind, wheel bearings, TRE, ball joint, AHC pressures & adjustment. Must all be within spec. Or replacing bushing may not total solve your issue.

Power steering fluid and reservoir is often overlooked, since mile one. Bad/old fluid will cause issues.

Thread 'Steering Flush & Cleaning'

Mar 29, 2016

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition.

These step will help you get, a better idea on how to.

1. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with servicing/flushing.
2. Release hose clamps from hoses of reservoir, sliding them down the hoses a few inches. Do not remove hose yet, just insure they turn freely on reservoir nipples.
3. Pull reservoir out of holder. You'll need to release/bend clip outward, on outside of holding bracket...

• 2001LC
• Replies: 329
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

• 

 

[Jwoodywild]

I'll first note: When I find bushing bad and rack seals leaking. I'd advise R&P be replaced. The new R&P comes new bushings and inner TRE. In most cases, I'd also install new OEM outer TRE.
___________________________ That said_____

In your pic. Bushing is a bit hard to see, since so dirty. But does look shot. By turning steering wheel left then right about 30 degrees, while videoing bushing. I do this with both or one front tire on the ground. You'll like see rack lift and is bushing badly split.

When rack housing mounting bushing shot. We'll see steering wheel slow to come back to center after a turn. But does come back, if wheel alignment correct.

The oil on bushing/rack is coming from somewhere. Likely engine oil.

Just the bushing can be replaced. You'll find write-ups in mud on how (note: 03-07 are different than 98-02 R&P). If oil leak not stopped. Then you'll want poly bushings. Which oil soaking, won't result damaging them like rubber.

It does look like, you also have a power steering fluid leak at left rack to rack housing seal (boot). Although it is possible, engine oil leak has made to boot.

If oil was inside boot, and both boot clamps were in place, rack is leaking. If PS fluid is leaking. It means you are loosing power steering fluid (ATF). Yet you state the reservoir is full. Then, resevoir is likely so dirty in only looks full. Put a flashlight behind reservoir to backlight fluid in it so you can see. Note the 3 level indicator lines: Cold low, cold high/hot low, hot high.

When we have a leak into rack boot. It very often washes out inner TRE balls grease. Thus damaging that inner TRE.

Keep in mind, wheel bearings, TRE, ball joint, AHC pressures & adjustment. Must all be within spec. Or replacing bushing may not total solve your issue.

Power steering fluid and reservoir is often overlooked, since mile one. Bad/old fluid will cause issues.

Thread 'Steering Flush & Cleaning'

Mar 29, 2016

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition.

These step will help you get, a better idea on how to.

1. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with servicing/flushing.
2. Release hose clamps from hoses of reservoir, sliding them down the hoses a few inches. Do not remove hose yet, just insure they turn freely on reservoir nipples.
3. Pull reservoir out of holder. You'll need to release/bend clip outward, on outside of holding bracket...

• 2001LC
• Replies: 329
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

• 

Thanks for the reply - you now more about this than I do for sure. Here is a video clip of the play with the tire in the air. You can see how much play there is and while I don't have great picture the bushing on the driver side is clearly shot. The passenger side there was no play with the tire in the air and the bushing looked good. There may be a small leak somewhere but it is not obvious. I will check the power steering fluid reservoir again but I really think it is at normal level and has not lost fluid for a long time - put it this way I have never topped it off and the last oil change where it would have been topped off was 3000 miles ago.



There was no fluid inside the bellows - I removed the clip and pushed both back. It was greasy and maybe that is from a small leak - or just grease over 23 years - not sure - but it's not like fluid came pouring out.

I think if I can put poly bushing in and get a good result that is my preference vs. a $2300 new rack install for a rack that may not be as good over time. If that does not work, or I get a lot of VSC interruptions I will likely just bite the bullet and get a new rack.

My top priority is that the truck is safe for my family.

 

[2001LC]

Looks like bushing is shot. As long as TRE, ball joint and wheel bearings (sung) good. New bushing should work very well and be safe.

 

[Jwoodywild]

Looks like bushing is shot. As long as TRE, ball joint and wheel bearings (sung) good. New bushing should work very well and be safe.

Someone could make a mint creating a rubber OEM quality bushing. I am reading a lot about the poly bushings triggering VSC. Btw, can VSC be removed?

 

[2001LC]

There are rubber bushing available, all I've seen come from China. But they'll not hold up, if continuously soaked in oil.

 

[Jwoodywild]

There are rubber bushing available, all I've seen come from China. But they'll not hold up, if continuously soaked in oil.

Can you send a link? I would like to see what they look like.