ARCHIVE Under Seat Mounted Fire Extinguisher Mount, need feedback.

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NLXTACY said:
Yup. Which is why disconnects are so important. :grinpimp:
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all this talk about flame supression...stop teasing and get on with it.
 
Mr Cimarron said:
I like it. Probably would want it mounted on the passenger side. On long trips i like to take my shoes off and put them in that location. Right now on solo trip my extinguisher gets buckled in the passenger seat with the seatbelt.
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This ^, I would not want it in that location at my feet, it would just bug me. I mounted my ext's: one in center console (small), small one behind drivers side on floor and a larger one in the cargo area.
 
Mr Cimarron said:
Nice product placement. What is that contraption? I'm intrigued.
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Dirty Koala said:
It's a flaming blatant product placement...but rather clever.
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You know my background is marketing right? :flipoff2:

It's something I developed for just my truck sometime early last year. I've taken it to the nth level and I had enough interest to actually productize it. It's been fully assembled and I'm doing the beat down testing to work out the bugs. If you work in your engine bay and/or like the security of a disconnect, well...
 
LandCruiserPhil is correct and that is why I like Halon 1211. It works on class B and Class C fires. A disconnect would be the best solution and the wire cutters some added insurance for sure. I plan on running one 1211 extinguisher on the drivers side and another on the passenger side. I will also have the disconnect under the hood as well as a high quality wire cutter that is good for 1/0 gauge and smaller.
 
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I am using these to build my 1/0 gauge battery cable and they slice through it like butter. I like the warning they issue to the user at the bottom.
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I love the idea of having full access of a fire extinguisher from the drivers seat but I couldn't come up with a good mounting spot so I gave up and just threw mine under the rear seat drivers side. Very much out of the way but not as convenient as something immediately at hand. Looking forward to see what you decide on.

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I was at my wits' end trying to figure out the best place for mounting a Maglite and fire extinguisher! Agree passenger side is best and pushed back toward the seat as far as possible. No need for switches, but San Bernardino county is pretty liberal with CCW permits, so...Glock 10mm mounting may be necessary! :smokin:
 
NLXTACY said:
So if I were to include holster mounting, what standard would I be using? What mounting method?
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Why not create a mount with for the side below the seat (below the seat controls) OR with easy access from the rear hatch perhaps along the pillars. Years ago, our patrol car fire suppression unit was in the trunk and worked just fine. It only takes a few additional seconds to run to the back and grab it vs kicking it every day. I realize, as a previous first responder that seconds count yet I also realize how infrequent it is actually used.
 
TahoeLX450 said:
Why not create a mount with for the side below the seat (below the seat controls)
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I started with this design but I found that ANYONE that wasn't me, and because of the lift, would slide down the left side of the seat to get out. This became a non-starter when the very first time my wife's shirt snagged on the extinguisher.

TahoeLX450 said:
OR with easy access from the rear hatch perhaps along the pillars.
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I hear there is something just about ready to announce. :hmm:

TahoeLX450 said:
Years ago, our patrol car fire suppression unit was in the trunk and worked just fine. It only takes a few additional seconds to run to the back and grab it vs kicking it every day. I realize, as a previous first responder that seconds count yet I also realize how infrequent it is actually used.
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I agree, this is a possibility. But with the addition of rear-mounted tires on swing out bumpers this just exacerbates the problem. The other thing is, as a patrolman you were given fire safety training. I'm assuming on a semi-regular basis, so and extra few seconds equal what Joe-Shmoe would be that has never had the training but is just trying to be a good sam.
 
Ok folks I have decided to go ahead and add in one slot (knock-out) for a Toyota flat dash switch that will live on the hump side of the mount. I will not supply the switch at all because there are any number of possibilities and I'm not going to choose one. Plus, it will cost you the same if you were going to get new. You will also need the plug portion of the switch plus some length of the harnes to be able to tie into it. This is not different than using a Toyota switch for some other purpose. Just letting everyone know.

I will also be adding two slots (knock-outs) for a waterproof switch that I have sourced and am really happy with. Its smaller than the Toyota switch but its water proof so being at the driver's side during water crossings or heavy rain won't be an issue. Now I was going to offer these up with a Metri-Pack connector but there is no need. The switch has spade terminals so when you wire it up you just need to use female spade terminals to plug into the switch. The spade terminals act as your connector :meh:

I will include some zip tie holes so that you can neatly control the wiring run.

Hopefully everyone is fine with these switches because its the one I'm using on several of my product offerings already because I like them :flipoff2:

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Is the switch a standard size, so if broken, had a problem, or wanted something else it can easily be replaced? I like your switch looks clean and simple. My only concern would be that if something happened or someone wanted a different switch it would be easy to find a replacement or change out if desired.
 
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Tredwards said:
Is the switch a standard size, so if broken, had a problem, or wanted something else it can easily be replaced? I like your switch looks clean and simple. My only concern would be that if something happened or someone wanted a different switch it would be easy to find a replacement or change out if desired.
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Depends what you mean by standard size :meh:

Size is common enough as far as switches go. Just not Toyota. These are marine switches rated to 30A.
 
I would prefer to have no slots. This way I can run a longer flashlight and or wire cutters etc.. If one wants to add a switch later it would be easy to remove the mount and cut one out. I run a completely different size switch then what you have there. Just my thought.
 
azcrackshot said:
I would prefer to have no slots. This way I can run a longer flashlight and or wire cutters etc.. If one wants to add a switch later it would be easy to remove the mount and cut one out. I run a completely different size switch then what you have there. Just my thought.
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The slots would not be on the flat top nor on the mounting surface. It would be on the triangle shaped ends, facing the door.
 
I would prefer no slots if you can run some that way. I think if you were to rivet on your wits' end logo on the side that would look great. I can deal with slots if that is the only option so what ever you decide to do I am just happy you are making these.
 
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