- Thread starter
- #41
AATLAS1X said:
Right on! Thanks a ton.
Build Uglina is Back Thread ('78 Mustard FJ40)
- Thread starter TEQ
- Start date
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Right on! Thanks a ton.
TEQ said:I pulled the air cleaner off tonight and armed with a bit more information, I am one step closer to understanding...and a plan.
The picture below is my carb. This is very clearly a '75 Aisan Federal carb (see this set of photos from SOR).
First, a seemingly stupid question that forum searching did not answer: Were Aisan carbs the OEM equipment on these trucks? People talk about them as though they were aftermarket, but then no-one ever talks about Toyota/TEQ carbs?
Second, seems to me that this carb is going to just cause me headaches. The truck runs ok as-is, but I really don't like the idea of having mis-matched parts. And when it *stops* running OK and *I'm* the one trying to fix it (being generally clue-less) it would be great if the pictures and descriptions in the repair manual made sense an matched what I actually had.
For now, anyway, I'm just trying to understand what I have. I'm not making any decisions. The air-filter is fairly secure sans-bolts, so it'll hold for a while.
My biggest concern is the vacume tubes. There is nothing connected to the nipple on my distributor. This thread indicates it should come from the carb somewhere. I can't find any thing obvious there. On top of that there *is* a tube coming out of the air filter assembly that is not attached to anything (I might have pulled it out removing the air filter assembly last night). I assumed 1+1 = 2 and it connected to the distributor, but after reading that thread I'm not so sure.
On top of that, there are 3 (three) tubes that terminate near the emissions "computer" thingy, but are not conected to anything at that end.
The good news is that this is a blast. My hands are greasy and I'm remembering things about working on engines that I forgot 20 years ago.
Teq,
I'm betting your air filter housing is an earlier type even more now that you have figured out the year of your carb. It makes sense now.
How many ports on your distributor? Mine has two. I believe it is for and advance and retard for the smog equipement. The previous owner may have disconnected yours completely. Take a snapshot of it and post it up.
If i was to make a guess a previous owner tried to do a psuedo de-smog of the 2F that or the original carb crapped out and they replaced it with an earlier model.
Lets get our 78s together and compare them side to side and get it sorted out. I'm also planning on doing a complete de-smog of my 78 so there will be parts availble for you to make it right. Lets chat about it later..
- Thread starter
- #43
bull said:
See pic below.
At one point this rig had a Man-a-fre Weber carb on it (it came with the truck in a cardboard box). The PO I bought it from said the Weber was removed and the original put back on. Obviously "an original" was put back on
.Looks like I will have some time Saturday. I will call or email...
That nipple on the top of your distibutor is a breather port.
Here's a pic of the engine bay from the passenger side. You can see where that vacuum line from the top of the distributer attaches to the aircleaner.
I failed CA emissions last year because I forgot to re-install the hot air tube when I was doing carb work .
There are numbers embossed on the computer next to each nipple. If you post the numbers I can tell you where they should go.
I would suggest getting the factory emmissions manual. Has lots of good info that you won't find anywhere else.
I failed CA emissions last year because I forgot to re-install the hot air tube when I was doing carb work .
There are numbers embossed on the computer next to each nipple. If you post the numbers I can tell you where they should go.
I would suggest getting the factory emmissions manual. Has lots of good info that you won't find anywhere else.
Man I wish my 40 looked that good when I got it. It has 80000 unrestored miles. The great part is the previous owner kept it stock. Nice rig.
I had a look at your pics and I think that your problem may just be that that air cleaner housing is just pressed metal and it has got a little out of wack. I can see for sure that if you just bend that top bracket abit it will line up. I think that is the right setup just a little bent.
try bolting the support bolts loosely to the head then see if the top support lines up. if i does then try to fit the attachment to the carb.
TEQ,TEQ said:
I think you figured this out, but the Aisan carb is the factory Toyota carb. The trouble you seem to be having is when the PO went back to a stock carb they found a different one, which is very easy to do in this time frame. When Toyota was trying to keep up with all the emissions requirements during the seventies, they changed the carb like every year after '74 and had separate models for California. You have a factory carb - just figure out which you have, and what emissions need to be in place for that carb.
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #52
Update
Today was a good day with the cruiser...
Now I'll be out of town for two weeks. When I get back I will have a bunch of boxes waiting for me from SOR and cruiserdan. Oh yea...
Today was a good day with the cruiser...
- Degreased the engine, tranny, etc... Jacked the front up so I could really get underneath. Covered up the distributor, carb, and other open ports. Sprayed lots of de-greaser on. When I tried to turn on the hose-bib, the knob broke off in my hand. 3 hours later (after breakfast with the family) I finally got water to flow. Engine is much cleaner now, but still no-where near my standards.
- Compared emissions, carb, air cleaner, and other misc stuff to Bull's '78. His was made in April. Mine in November. They are very different. I have some sort of a vaccum valve down low on the right rear of the block. He doesn't. His EGR valve is very different. But we got most of the vaccum tubes connected up (replaced a few). Until I can get a newer carb, I will still have issues.
- Tested vaccume pressur. Looked really good.
- Tested compression. All cylinders between 128 and 138psi. Factory manual says range should be 113.8-149psi.
- Had my first "on the road breakdown" and I fixed it myself! When Bull & I were testing the vaccum pressure, I tried to start the rig. It wouldn't even turn over. I was dumbfounded and asked him to try. Turned right over. Weird. ... So, after we're all done, I'm driving home and I stop for gas. After filling up she won't start. Just won't even turn over. I'm starting to panic, because, my wife is already pissed that I'm not home yet, and I'm imagining calling her and a tow truck. I pop the hood and look around. Likely something to do with the starter, right? Yup, sure-enough the ground wire had slipped off the plug on the starter. I'm so proud of myself.
Now I'll be out of town for two weeks. When I get back I will have a bunch of boxes waiting for me from SOR and cruiserdan. Oh yea...
It would be a shame if this rig came between you and your wife, but it's a good lookin rig so you should be able to pick up chicks with no problem!
- Thread starter
- #55
With the exception of taking my son to his Lacrosse game and sign the papers selling my BMW 
I was able to spend all day wrenching on my cruiser. For a complete noob like myself, I'm quite proud of what I got done...
I started by warming up the engine and getting my tools ready. Then I drained the oil, took off the old oil filter, the air filter housing, the battery, a bunch of ancient hoses, and the distributor & rotor.
By the end of the day (about an hour ago) I had
New oil filter.
New fuel filter and fuel lines.
New spark plugs & wires.
New distributor cap & rotor.
New Optima battery.
Several new, re-routed, vaccum lines.
A new washer fluid & coolant overflow tank.
The 1" heater hose from the air pump to the air filter.
Several other hoses (not the cooling system).
New stainless steel bolts holding the bezel.
The pics below are:
- The engine after I was done.
- No more rusty screws on the bezel, and a fresh coat of wax
- My '95 BMW 540i M-Sport leaving my driveway for the last time... I'm going to miss that car...
I was able to spend all day wrenching on my cruiser. For a complete noob like myself, I'm quite proud of what I got done...I started by warming up the engine and getting my tools ready. Then I drained the oil, took off the old oil filter, the air filter housing, the battery, a bunch of ancient hoses, and the distributor & rotor.
By the end of the day (about an hour ago) I had
New oil filter.
New fuel filter and fuel lines.
New spark plugs & wires.
New distributor cap & rotor.
New Optima battery.
Several new, re-routed, vaccum lines.
A new washer fluid & coolant overflow tank.
The 1" heater hose from the air pump to the air filter.
Several other hoses (not the cooling system).
New stainless steel bolts holding the bezel.
The pics below are:
- The engine after I was done.
- No more rusty screws on the bezel, and a fresh coat of wax
- My '95 BMW 540i M-Sport leaving my driveway for the last time... I'm going to miss that car...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #56
This is now my Official Fix-Up Thread
I debated creating a new thread documenting my adventure working on my rig or just continuing this one. I have decided to just continue this thread...hopefully people will follow along...
Recap
When I was searcing for a FJ40, my goal was to find one that was a daily driver out of the box. I thought I had achieved that the day I bought her.
But as I started tackling the "minor" issues she had and I peeled back the onion, my eyes started watering. While she certainly looks great, and really is in great shape, it turns out that not all is well down south.
My current work on her started as a one or two night deal to fix a leaking oil pan, rear diff, and PS system. Three weeks later she is still up on jack stands with the following removed:
Oil pan, rear diff, front diff, prop shafts, front and rear axles, front hubs and knuckles, front brakes, left front fender & bib, tie/relay rods, center arm, and probably a few other things I can't remember right now.
So this has turned into a pretty major "Fix-Up" for me, and I think it justifies my very own "Buildup Thread". I'm not sure how much value this will have to all you real experts on Mud, but I know that at the minimum some noob, newer than myself, will likely appreciate all the pictures...just as I learn from and appreciate all the pictures found in other buildup threads.
For you noobs lurking... I am mechanically minded, but the only real experience I have working on cars and engines was tearing down and rebuilding a lawnmower motor in highschool and changing the oil in my Porsche. One of my motivations for owning an FJ was to be forced to learn. There is no doubt that I have accomplished that goal. I now know a LOT about how these things are put together and work. I have demonstrated that I am pretty capable (if somewhat slow) of taking a FJ40 apart. What is yet to be proven, however, is whether I can actually put it back together correctly. So two points: *You* can do it too and be weary of any advice *I* give you.
And I know I'll be able to count on folks here to continue to provide me with answers and the appropriate amount of crap I deserve.
In the next few posts I will document my progress to date...
I debated creating a new thread documenting my adventure working on my rig or just continuing this one. I have decided to just continue this thread...hopefully people will follow along...
Recap
When I was searcing for a FJ40, my goal was to find one that was a daily driver out of the box. I thought I had achieved that the day I bought her.
But as I started tackling the "minor" issues she had and I peeled back the onion, my eyes started watering. While she certainly looks great, and really is in great shape, it turns out that not all is well down south.
My current work on her started as a one or two night deal to fix a leaking oil pan, rear diff, and PS system. Three weeks later she is still up on jack stands with the following removed:
Oil pan, rear diff, front diff, prop shafts, front and rear axles, front hubs and knuckles, front brakes, left front fender & bib, tie/relay rods, center arm, and probably a few other things I can't remember right now.
So this has turned into a pretty major "Fix-Up" for me, and I think it justifies my very own "Buildup Thread". I'm not sure how much value this will have to all you real experts on Mud, but I know that at the minimum some noob, newer than myself, will likely appreciate all the pictures...just as I learn from and appreciate all the pictures found in other buildup threads.
For you noobs lurking... I am mechanically minded, but the only real experience I have working on cars and engines was tearing down and rebuilding a lawnmower motor in highschool and changing the oil in my Porsche. One of my motivations for owning an FJ was to be forced to learn. There is no doubt that I have accomplished that goal. I now know a LOT about how these things are put together and work. I have demonstrated that I am pretty capable (if somewhat slow) of taking a FJ40 apart. What is yet to be proven, however, is whether I can actually put it back together correctly. So two points: *You* can do it too and be weary of any advice *I* give you.
And I know I'll be able to count on folks here to continue to provide me with answers and the appropriate amount of crap I deserve.
In the next few posts I will document my progress to date...
Hmm...
Just noticed the CCOT PS add-on.
I tried to buy their pump mount brackets for my '78, but they said no dice...
Do you mind posting some pics of the PS pump mount? As you probably know, we missed being able to have factory PS by one year!
Sorry to hear about your trials and tribulations - esp since you thought you were getting a driver. I got my '78 from the orig owner who did not modify it (nor did he maintain it!)
Hang in there - tribulation worketh patience!
Just noticed the CCOT PS add-on.
I tried to buy their pump mount brackets for my '78, but they said no dice...
Do you mind posting some pics of the PS pump mount? As you probably know, we missed being able to have factory PS by one year!
Sorry to hear about your trials and tribulations - esp since you thought you were getting a driver. I got my '78 from the orig owner who did not modify it (nor did he maintain it!)
Hang in there - tribulation worketh patience!
- Thread starter
- #58
I drove her for a few weeks and really got to know her. She really drove well with the exception of sloppy steering. Clutch, gearbox, power, all fine.
During this time, with the help of Bull, I checked the compression and vaccume. Good.
I also did the major portions of a standard tuneup:
Oil change, oil filter, distributor cap, new plugs & wires, air filter, and fuel filter. I didn't flush the coolant or replace the belts because it wasn't obvious to me how I'd get the lower hoses off and I was anxious to get back on the road. I'd do that another time...
I degreased and power washed the engine and undercarraige. During the process of cleaning the engine I realized the exterior of the carb was really dirty:
Running the engine with the air filter housing off, I discovered why. The carb (from a '75) had one of it's ports plugged in a half-ass way (see the little hose section on the left of the pic below?) and was leaking gas. I'm sure this contributed to the overall stench of the truck.
The fix was simple. I just took the fitting off, cut about 1/2" off each end and re-fitted it, making sure the clamps were on tight.
It was about this time that I fixed the horrible squeak in the clutch pedal. This just involved putting some oil on the hinge up under the dash. Of course, I couldn't see *where* to put oil, so I used this as an excuse to take the speedo unit off and look-see behind it. Exciting. It's awfully dirty in there with tons of dust...
During this time, with the help of Bull, I checked the compression and vaccume. Good.
I also did the major portions of a standard tuneup:
Oil change, oil filter, distributor cap, new plugs & wires, air filter, and fuel filter. I didn't flush the coolant or replace the belts because it wasn't obvious to me how I'd get the lower hoses off and I was anxious to get back on the road. I'd do that another time...
I degreased and power washed the engine and undercarraige. During the process of cleaning the engine I realized the exterior of the carb was really dirty:
Running the engine with the air filter housing off, I discovered why. The carb (from a '75) had one of it's ports plugged in a half-ass way (see the little hose section on the left of the pic below?) and was leaking gas. I'm sure this contributed to the overall stench of the truck.
The fix was simple. I just took the fitting off, cut about 1/2" off each end and re-fitted it, making sure the clamps were on tight.
It was about this time that I fixed the horrible squeak in the clutch pedal. This just involved putting some oil on the hinge up under the dash. Of course, I couldn't see *where* to put oil, so I used this as an excuse to take the speedo unit off and look-see behind it. Exciting. It's awfully dirty in there with tons of dust...
TEQ - When pulling speedo cluster, be careful not to ground your amp meter!!!
That will fuq things up in a hurry!!!
That will fuq things up in a hurry!!!
- Thread starter
- #60
Here's some pics I took during the tune up. A PO had attached the fuel filter to the + power lead using a zip tie. I fixed that by attaching it where it belongs under the battery tray.
I also decided at this point my battery tray deserved to be replaced given it was rusted through.
Replacing the plugs, plug wires, and distributor cap was a snap. I did notice that my distributor is pretty ugly looking inside. Seems to work fine, so I'm not going to sweat it, but maybe someday when I'm bored I relplace it.
As clean as I was willing to get it on a 40 degree day:
I also decided at this point my battery tray deserved to be replaced given it was rusted through.
Replacing the plugs, plug wires, and distributor cap was a snap. I did notice that my distributor is pretty ugly looking inside. Seems to work fine, so I'm not going to sweat it, but maybe someday when I'm bored I relplace it.
As clean as I was willing to get it on a 40 degree day: