Transmission Starting in Higher Gear? (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Oct 11, 2022
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Location
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Hey all, I have a 2001 LC with 318,000 miles. Have owned for 4 years now and never had any issues with the Transmission. Over the past few weeks, I have had an intermittent issue when cold starting (seems to happen more when it has been sitting for a few days).

I crank it and place it in "D". I can feel the normal, minor "lurch" of it going into gear. When I let off the brake and give it gas, it revs up some and barely moves. It feels as if I'm trying to start a manual trans vehicle in 3rd or 4th gear. The first time, I thought it was a frozen brake caliper dragging (to give you a sense of what it feels like). The past few times, I've manually dropped the gear selector down to "L" and it's taken off just fine and normal, then shifted to to "2", then to "D". After that, it drives and shifts just fine and normal. Even making short stops and errands, it does fine the rest of the day.

Have not had any issues with Reverse. Again, once it's warmed up and the initial issue is worked out, it drives fine, shifts smooth, goes through all gears no problem.

I checked for any Codes and nothing. I checked the tranny fluid and it's nice and clean/red and at a good level.

Any ideas on troubleshooting the issue or ideas that I can try?

Thank you in advance!
 
Is the second start button engaged? Possibly the dash light is out?

The only catch here is you say it's normal once warmed up. Hmmm Start simple and check the second start button and report back

If you aren't sure you could get a cheap OBDII reader and connect to your phone. With mine I am able to see what gear I am in along with other fun facts.

Otherwise, maybe this is a fluid issue? IDK probably not.
 
Only when cold, sound like fluid issue.

When was last ATF flush, with what brand & type ATF and how many qts used?

Check level in transmission is first check, I'd do. Which you noted as "a good level". Detail is important, helps us understand your skills as mechanic on 100 series.
OM states check ATF level, at operating temp. But FSM sates 158f -176f, which they don't operate normal that high ATF temp.
Important also is how checked:
Vehicle level, engine running, transmission in P, after shifting through all gears slowly, at proper ATF temp. Where on dipstick, is important to note.
 
Is the second start button engaged? Possibly the dash light is out?

The only catch here is you say it's normal once warmed up. Hmmm Start simple and check the second start button and report back

If you aren't sure you could get a cheap OBDII reader and connect to your phone. With mine I am able to see what gear I am in along with other fun facts.

Otherwise, maybe this is a fluid issue? IDK probably not.
Good idea about using OBD to check what gear I'm in when these symptoms appear! Thanks for the reply.
 
Only when cold, sound like fluid issue.

When was last ATF flush, with what brand & type ATF and how many qts used?

Check level in transmission is first check, I'd do. Which you noted as "a good level". Detail is important, helps us understand your skills as mechanic on 100 series.
OM states check ATF level, at operating temp. But FSM sates 158f -176f, which they don't operate normal that high ATF temp.
Important also is how checked:
Vehicle level, engine running, transmission in P, after shifting through all gears slowly, at proper ATF temp. Where on dipstick, is important to note.
Last fluid flush was done by previous owner 35,000 miles ago. Unsure what fluid type he used, he just said "Synthetic". I thought about doing a few drain and fills with a good synthetic (Mobile 1 or Valvoline).

I checked fluid level as you described... After driving up to temp, level pavement, cycled through each gear, pulled dipstick with truck running, in Park. Fluid read between the "warm" markers.
 
Last fluid flush was done by previous owner 35,000 miles ago. Unsure what fluid type he used, he just said "Synthetic". I thought about doing a few drain and fills with a good synthetic (Mobile 1 or Valvoline).

I checked fluid level as you described... After driving up to temp, level pavement, cycled through each gear, pulled dipstick with truck running, in Park. Fluid read between the "warm" markers.
Here's what I do next, since you've never flushed ATF:
  1. Check coolant level in the AM before sun-up, when coldest out. Making sure level to top of radiator goose neck. Top reservoir also
  2. Look over engine and transmission for leaks or damages wires.
  3. Run scan with, looking for issue. Watch both engine coolant temp, that it stay in range 184 -187F.
  4. If all looking good, which above are just check to get to this point. I'd do a full 12 qts flush with Mobil 1 full synthetic MV ATF. I've cure many a transmission called dead, with a full 12 qt. and proper flush. All to often a drain and fill uses a ATF, that does mix well with whatever is in transmission. These issue almost always take time and miles, before showing up..
  5. I top to dead on full "hot" line mark, on dipstick at 157F ATF temp.
Also worth a note: I've seen misfires, feel like bad transmission. You can watch for misfires in tech stream. But be advised, there is a glitch in tech stream, where misfire count disappears under load. It is under load we most often see misfire. There's a video around, on this issues.
 
Here's what I do next, since you've never flushed ATF:
  1. Check coolant level in the AM before sun-up, when coldest out. Making sure level to top of radiator goose neck. Top reservoir also
  2. Look over engine and transmission for leaks or damages wires.
  3. Run scan with, looking for issue. Watch both engine coolant temp, that it stay in range 184 -187F.
  4. If all looking good, which above are just check to get to this point. I'd do a full 12 qts flush with Mobil 1 full synthetic MV ATF. I've cure many a transmission called dead, with a full 12 qt. and proper flush. All to often a drain and fill uses a ATF, that does mix well with whatever is in transmission. These issue almost always take time and miles, before showing up..
  5. I top to dead on full "hot" line mark, on dipstick at 157F ATF temp.
Also worth a note: I've seen misfires, feel like bad transmission. You can watch for misfires in tech stream. But be advised, there is a glitch in tech stream, where misfire count disappears under load. It is under load we most often see misfire. There's a video around, on this issues.
I appreciate the response. The fact that switching my gear selector to "L" works to get me into first gear for the initial "take off" definitely leads me to the transmission (as opposed to a misfire). I'll look ay doing a full fluid flush with good, quality synthetic fluid.
 
I appreciate the response. The fact that switching my gear selector to "L" works to get me into first gear for the initial "take off" definitely leads me to the transmission (as opposed to a misfire). I'll look ay doing a full fluid flush with good, quality synthetic fluid.
I'm thinking the same. But shifting does change load on engine, so I'd not rule out yet a misfire or other engine issue. Even coolant temp need consideration..

The transmission flush done correctly, may be all that is needed. Which should have been done as part of base line anyway. Here's hoping it this easy.

I attach a clear (clear hose so I can see ATF as it passes through) hose to return pipe, at side of radiator. Run to my catch can. This way I get both pre cooler and main cooler flushed. It's the top one nipple. But warning: Once someone switched lines, and I dump a qt or two on the shop floor before I noticed. So it's not a bad idea to run a catch hose off the return hose also. But you can just let return hose lay off to the side.

I always start by draining the pan, installing new drain plug gasket and retorque to 15ft-lbf. I record exactly what came out pan. Add that much plus 1/2+ qt. back to transmission. Then start engine to pump out aft, as I fill through dip stick. I watch very close how much comes out. I usually need to shut down engine after ~90 seconds. As I can't fill as fast as it comes out. I measure ever drop I remove, and replace same amount less 1/2 qt. Then come back and top once return hose connected to nipple and at ATF at 157F.

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