the gimpey one said:
Yes..
Builds transforming the dent
- Thread starter the gimpey one
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Yes..
- Thread starter
- #62
ok either i have to be able to start the truck from under the hood or the gauge stops wherever it pegs out. Enlighten me?
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- #63
Nevermind googled it. So do i do it with the plugs in or remove all of them and then do it?
Do one plug at a time. Take it out test and put it back in.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
Run a compression test first - it's easy. After you run it dry if some of the cylinders are low then run it wet. Depending on how that checks out you can then run a leak down test. These 2Fs are good motors. Make sure of what you have before you rip it out.
- Thread starter
- #66
ok so i did the test one cylinder at a time leaving the plugs in as well. Before i even started i got white smoke while letting the truck warm up.
cylinder 1 75
cylinder 2 25
cylinder 3 60
cylinder 4 40
I saw no need to continue so did not pull numbers on 5 and 6.
cylinder 1 75
cylinder 2 25
cylinder 3 60
cylinder 4 40
I saw no need to continue so did not pull numbers on 5 and 6.
You did this with the coil wire unplugged? Correct.
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- #68
So here is my question!
The wiring on the tan cruiser is non existent. The wires behind the fuse box are all cut. the harness going to the driver side headlight is missing and looks like it is missing going to the passenger as well.Wiring is missing going to the alternator also. Should i try to rewire it using the harness from the dent and swap drivetrains or do a body swap?
The wiring on the tan cruiser is non existent. The wires behind the fuse box are all cut. the harness going to the driver side headlight is missing and looks like it is missing going to the passenger as well.Wiring is missing going to the alternator also. Should i try to rewire it using the harness from the dent and swap drivetrains or do a body swap?
Yep pretty sure your head gasket is blown.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
Was the truck at WOT? Did you let it crank over at least 3-4 times? The pressure will rise with each crank until it maxes out. Just wanna make sure we don't ditch a good motor.
- Thread starter
- #71
Yes pulled the plug that went to the dizzy. Tried to crank it before doing test and was a no go. Was that correct?
Mark, label and take pictures of everything on the harness. Then take it out and install it in the new cruiser. Half a day job.
It will give you a good chance to clean the harness and look for any flaws and fix them as well you can retape it
- Thread starter
- #73
went at least 10 rotations each cylinder. I sent marshall a pic of the smoke maybe he can post it.
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- #74
So would i be better off pulling the motor before i rewire for ease of access?
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
Was the engine at WOT (wide open throttle)? If not your #s will all be low.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
If the engine is desmogged, or if you are going to desmog at the same time then I wouldn't unless you need to work on the motor. A desmogged engine bay should have plenty of room to work.
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- #77
oops the throttle may not have been wide open. Another words i did not have the pedal to the floor
. I do know that it did not smoke yesterday and it is smoking bad now. Alo saw smoke coming out of the top of the motor where the breather hose suppose to attach.
If he put the screwdriver down the throat of the carb like I said then it shouldn't matter if it's wide open. Just open.
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- #80
Meh u guys saw the pics.
