Tranny install (1 Viewer)

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Defiance Mo
OK, here we go.

I have a few other post for my slow work towards replacing the clutch in my FJ40. Its a 72 with a Downey 350 conversion to a Toyota 4 speed. I believe the tranny and transfer case are 77 (dont hold me to that, just a guess) Looking for advise on best way to install the tranny and transfer case.

In my opinion here are my options:

1. Put the tranny and transfer case back together top off the fluids put the 4 wheel shift assembly and tranny shift assembly on and slide her in. The only issue is that I will have to cut some of the transmission hump inside the fj40. The reason why is that i had to take the shift assembly apart on both to get the tranny and transfer case out. I have no problem cutting some metal out. In the pic provided it would be that bridge between the 2 holes. If I do it this way what would be a good way to cover the gap up. I Dont weld but can cut some kind of metal and screw it down. Maybe some spray paint or think rubber spray to finish it off. What has worked for you all out there.

2. Put tranny and transfer case together slide her in and then put shift assemblies on. No cutting required but not looking forward to getting the bolts back on the shift assembly for the tranny. Then top the fluids off.

3. Put tranny in, then transfer case on,
Tranny hump.jpg
then shift assembly, then fluids.

4. whatever makes sense from you all out there.

I will rent a tranny jack to make life easier on that front..
 
Ah crap that pic didnt work well with the text.

3. Put tranny in, then transfer case on tranny, then shift assembly on both, then fluids.
 
Did you remove the top of the tranny or just the shifter cane? The cane is easy to remove. IIRC, the stk t/case shifter slides off a pivot so it will lay down after the nut is removed. . It's a pain in the butt, but, most folks remove the tranny hump for more room to remove and install the tranny and t/case as 1 piece. My trail rig tranny hump hasn't been removed in 25yrs, but my tranny hump has been altered/butchered, so I can remove the tranny and t/case without removing the hump. I remove my shifter cane, and unbolt my dana 20 twin stick t/case shift linkages.
 
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Before removing the shift cane, make certain the tranny is in NEUTRAL. I use about a 7/8 open end wrench to press and spin the shift cane off. Spin the coller to the right to remove the cane.
 
Did you remove the top of the tranny or just the shifter cane? The cane is easy to remove. IIRC, the stk t/case shifter slides off a pivot so it will lay down after the nut is removed. . It's a pain in the butt, but, most folks remove the tranny hump for more room to remove and install the tranny and t/case as 1 piece. My trail rig tranny hump hasn't been removed in 25yrs, but my tranny hump has been altered/butchered, so I can remove the tranny and t/case without removing the hump. I remove my shifter cane, and unbolt my dana 20 twin stick t/case shift linkages.

I think removing the shaft cane from the plate seems feasible. So I'm leaning towards putting the shiftplate back on the tranny without the shift cane, then put the transfer case on with the shift assembly top off the fluids and slide the whole thing in (that what she said). The last think I need is to remove something else for this project.
 
So of course I have made mistakes along the way, its how we learn. is there anyway to tell if the tranny is in neutral while the shift plate is off? Is it more difficult to remove the shift cane from the plate once its off?
Neutral .jpg
Shift cane.jpg
 
Pull the tranny hump. You will spend more time on the job trying to NOT remove it than if you just bite the bullet and remove it.
Then #2. Put your fluids in after install.
That's how most would tackle this job.
 
I think the case cover was removed with the tranny in gear. You'll just need to line up the slots. Shift cane is probably just as easy to remove w/cover off. Might need to clamp cover to a bench so both hands are free to remove cane. Maybe test shifter before sealing up the top cover and removing cane. Just tighten it down dry with few bolts.

I would pull the transmission shift cane and be sure it's in neutral. With the cane out should see the slots lined up inside. If not use a large screwdriver to line them up. Should always remove and install the shift cane in neutral. Vacuum 4WD should not effect shifting in the transmission.

here's a thread with some additional info. Need help with 4 spd transmission wont shift while on the bench.
 
Heh heh ...he said.
, “Tranny install”
 
Your transmixer appears to be in first gear.
The gates on each shift rail need to line up to be in N. The one with the spring button on the right is R. The thin one is 1-2 and since it is “down” with respect to the other two, it is in 1. The left one is 3-4.
 
Hey, OK so I can take a pic but I have the plates lined up. When i turn the out put shaft going into the tranny it turns the rear shaft but once i grabbed the rear the front still moves freely, so I assume that neutral. I also moved them into gear (not sure which one) but the shafts moved even when grabbed. Then put into rev verse and the shaft turned the opposite direction. I think I am good to go and will move forward from here(slowly). every hing moved with ease.
 
Sounds like it's shifting correctly, now you can remove the shift cane as big red described. I usually use 2 screwdrivers. I' might try the wrench idea next time. In the past I read where someone used a 2x4 with a hole in it so it would slide down the shifter. Push down the silver cup where the cane goes into the tranny tower and turn the cup, with the tranny in neutral. Once the cup releases pull the cane. It might take some wiggling.
 
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