Trail-Gear front bumper mods and Warn M12000

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Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Threads
30
Messages
1,545
Location
Utah
I bought a Trail-Gear 80 series front bumper because I like (mostly) the design, and they are well made and cheap. I've owned a few of their bumpers and sliders, and the bang-for-the-buck can't be beat - you can't hardly build one for what you can buy one for. I know several have issue with them being imported from China, or TG's reputation for knock-offs, but I can't afford to be too picky!

The Warn M12000 winch I have had for a few years just waiting for me to get off my can and install it. TG does not advertise that this winch will fit their bumper (in fact they told me it wouldn't fit), but I figured I could make it work (I'm not scared to cut/grind/weld). Seeing other installs with normal sized winches and how much extra room was left over in the bumper made me hopeful that it could work.

This setup is on my 1996 FZJ80. I have already relocated the AC receiver/dryer to the early R12 location in front of the battery. Also, I have already trimmed and capped the bulkhead corners that would normally be exposed (ugly) and vulnerable after install of this bumper.


I knew there were some things I wanted to add/modify to make the bumper better suited to my wants:

*Recovery/shackle mounts - the receiver mount would probably be sufficient, but these will give me more rigging options for those "how the heck did I do that" times.
*Reinforcement/modification to the winch mounting points to accommodate the stupid-huge Warn M12000.
*Light mounts. What is a bumper install without gratuitous amounts of light?
*Top cover/step plates. These REALLY make the bumper look more complete, and will double as a sturdy step/kneel point on the front of the Cruiser.
*Provision to mount the front license plate. Required in the beautiful State of Utah.


Big thanks to @I Lean for his plasma table skills and his uncanny ability to decode my cardboard templates and chicken-scratch drawings.


Anyways, pictures are what you're here for, right?

Modified stock bumper that I'm upgrading from:
HITR 11-05-2016.webp


Winch mounting as the bumper comes. The wider (10") pattern does bolt up to the M12000. Technically the 4-hole face of the winch is supposed to be the front (per Warn's mounting instructions), but I clocked the gearbox so the 4-hole face is the bottom. The red "X"s that you can see on the top tube are where the additional mounting holes on the M12000 sit. Yes, that's a metal garbage can that the bumper is sitting on. Don't judge me.
20161229_181706.webp

20161222_182125.webp

20161222_182157.webp


The 2 now forward facing mounting holes of the winch will be used via a sleeve through the upper tube and a couple longer bolts. Mag drills are rad.
20170108_152443.webp


To be continued...
 
Just to note, the Warn M12000 will "fit" on the TG front bumper without any mods to the bumper or the Cruiser. If no mods to the bumper are made, then only 4 mounting bolts (7/16" bolts) are used. I opted to use 2 of the additional 4 mounting points (the other 2 are on what is now the back side of the winch) to help tie the bumper together structurally, and to reinforce in any way possible (within reason of course) that monster winch. Warn mounting instructions use 6 mounting points just like I did, except the 4 feet face forward in a mount that is made for this winch.

I am not concerned about winch mounting strength in my configuration. Not at all.

Ok, more pics:


Top tube with sleeves for the 2 additional mounting bolts. The gaps between the tube and sleeve look huge in this photo - I assure you they aren't nearly what they appear to be.
20170108_161323.webp


It fits! Barely...
20170113_193900.webp


Shackle mounting points. 1/4" plate top and bottom with 1 1/4" .120" wall tube for the sleeves. This fits a shackle with a 1" pin perfectly. There is one of these on each side of the winch.
20170114_155633.webp


Light tabs mounted for a 10" LED bar to hang below the stinger.
20170114_155523.webp
 
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I mounted a pair of lights under the winch where they are fairly well protected by the lower sides of the winch plate. Wiring passes through a grommet behind each light.
Also, I added some reinforcement to the winch mounting locations in the form of a couple pieces of 1/8" plate (yes, they'll be welded on). I don't really think it's necessary, but hey, it can't hurt!
20170114_155707.webp


From TG, the bumper uses 2 threaded holes (12mm x 1.25) on the bottom of each frame rail. The 3rd hole is already threaded, so I added a tab to catch this mount.
20170114_155820.webp


Top plates a la @Box Rocket. These fill the open space on top and really (really) help complete the look of the bumper IMO. They are 1/8" steel and fully welded. I can stand or kneel (and intend to do so again) on these and they do not move. You can also see the lower mount tabs I added to catch the 3rd hole on the bottom of each frame rail.
20170126_122343.webp


There is also an extra pair of light tabs on the top main tube on either side of the winch. No plans for them yet, but they're there if/when I want to add something.
20170127_202735.webp
 
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The stock 3/8 x 125" steel winch cable is being replaced with a 7/16" x 100" synthetic rope rated at 33,000 lbs. from Olympus Offroad (A.R.E Spider Silk Winch Line). Just the switch to synthetic rope should save me almost 40 lbs. off this heavy pig! I haven't decided 100% what will go on the end of the winch rope, but I like the Factor 55 FlatLink (FlatLink – Factor 55). I picked up a couple of soft shackles from Olympus as well. I haven't used any of it yet, but they look like nice products!

Also, I need to decide where and how to mount my front license plate. The only place I've come up with that isn't (too) ugly, and is mostly protected is right in front of the fairlead. There are quick-disconnect style brackets that clamp to roller fairleads, but nothing I have found that will work with the hawse style fairleads. I may try a hinged plate that bolts behind the fairlead. Magnets could also be some or all of a solution? Any ideas? Keep in mind that the license plate will still have to clear whatever hook/link gets used on the rope.

Plans are to have the bumper powdercoated in a subtly textured black that matches my sliders and 4x4labs-based rear bumper.

Any input about features that I should add or change before it gets sent to be blasted and coated?
 
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Added to the first few posts.

Since the TG bumper matches up width-wise with the OEM flares, I was a little concerned that it would look funny on my de-flared 80. I don't think it looks too bad.
TG.webp


The camera angle here accentuates the width mismatch. It doesn't look that far off in person IMO. The bumper is wider than the body, but does not stick out farther than my big dumb tires. Ideal for protection if you ask me.
20170127_202816.webp
 
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Really nice, I have the same bumper, but not the same winch. I love the clean fab and the placement of lights on the underside...
 
I like this bumper much more with the extra work you have done. I have been thinking about the TG unit to replace my ARB, but it needed a bit of work to make me happy. Do you think the top plates will contact the bodywork when kissing rocks? I know my ARB does a little. Can you still remove the grill without pulling off the winch/bumper? Glad to see you fit the M12 to it as I have one also. John
 
I like this bumper much more with the extra work you have done. I have been thinking about the TG unit to replace my ARB, but it needed a bit of work to make me happy. Do you think the top plates will contact the bodywork when kissing rocks? I know my ARB does a little. Can you still remove the grill without pulling off the winch/bumper? Glad to see you fit the M12 to it as I have one also. John
I imagine it would help a lot in the flex. I've kissed rocks with my old MT bumper and it flexed into the quarter panels, but the tube bounce back. :lol: Scratched my head for minute on how did I dent there as the tube looked fine other than some rock rash.
 
I imagine it would help a lot in the flex. I've kissed rocks with my old MT bumper and it flexed into the quarter panels, but the tube bounce back. :lol: Scratched my head for minute on how did I dent there as the tube looked fine other than some rock rash.

Exactly!
 
I like this bumper much more with the extra work you have done. I have been thinking about the TG unit to replace my ARB, but it needed a bit of work to make me happy. Do you think the top plates will contact the bodywork when kissing rocks? I know my ARB does a little. Can you still remove the grill without pulling off the winch/bumper? Glad to see you fit the M12 to it as I have one also. John

I certainly expect some deflection if I hit it hard, but I don't think it'll move enough to hit the body. There is quite a bit of clearance with the factory TG parts, and the top panels I added have over an inch of clearance from the sheet metal for that exact reason. Plus, with the way this bumper is constructed there are no parts of it that aren't well supported.
 
I certainly expect some deflection if I hit it hard, but I don't think it'll move enough to hit the body. There is quite a bit of clearance with the factory TG parts, and the top panels I added have over an inch of clearance from the sheet metal for that exact reason. Plus, with the way this bumper is constructed there are no parts of it that aren't well supported.

Sounds good. Can Hulu still git the drill off?
 
Sounds good. Can Hulu still git the drill off?

Google translate did not understand.:flipoff2:

I'll have to perform an actual grill removal test, but I'm 99% sure that the grill will come off with the bumper and winch still in place.
 
Google translate did not understand.:flipoff2:

I'll have to perform an actual grill removal test, but I'm 99% sure that the grill will come off with the bumper and winch still in place.

Hope so. I'll try to hit the PROOFREAD button before the SEND button more often. :banana:
 
That bumper turned out damn nice. If the bumper came that way from TG I think more folks would give it more consideration. Kudos brother. :beer:
 
@inkpot I just checked, and the grill can be removed with the winch and bumper mounted.
 
Off to Full Blown Coatings in the morning to make it pretty!
 
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