Toyuzu Fj60 (Rootbeer Diesel Build)

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Good news, put on a dual reservoir master cylinder and brakes work good. A buddy let me borrow one that belongs on an Fj40. No more binding after about a 2 mile test drive. Went up the road an put $20 of diesel in her. Got a small oil leak that I think is coming from an oil pan bolt. Couldn't get on of the bolts in on the rear of the oil pan and I think its leaking from it. Still have a funny noise coming from the clutch/flywheel area.
 
Whats the noise sound like? Does it stop when the clutch is pedal pushed in? Kind of rattle noise?
 
bluehawk said:
Good news, put on a dual reservoir master cylinder and brakes work good. A buddy let me borrow one that belongs on an Fj40. No more binding after about a 2 mile test drive. Went up the road an put $20 of diesel in her. Got a small oil leak that I think is coming from an oil pan bolt. Couldn't get on of the bolts in on the rear of the oil pan and I think its leaking from it. Still have a funny noise coming from the clutch/flywheel area.
Click to expand...

Maybe this?
Pilot Bearing install to IDS Adapter question
 
What I described was how mine sounded when I first completed my swap, but my "rattle" sound stopped when the clutch pedal was pushed in. Mine turned out to be be a defective pilot bearing.

I also ended up adjusting my TO bearing so it just barely keeps in contact with the PP so it spins with no load all the time. My clutch set up was the old style that is supposed to be set up with a small gap. After many discussions on mud and 4BTswaps, I tried it and after 40k miles, no issues.

Mu rattle sound was also discussed on both sites, and several times the torsional vibrations of a 4 cylinder diesel was mentioned. This type of vibration can make the trans shafts rattle some. Isuzu uses special seals to help with this per Dougal in NZ.

I don't if you have had a chance to drive it enough to notice if the rattle gets louder when it warm? I found the cold gear oil made it quieter, and mine gets a little louder after a long drive.

How much flywheel weight are you running? My new engine will be around 62 pounds. The "Guru's" all have agreed that more is better, and should help smooth the 4's vibrations.

Keep the your head up and march forward, the end is near!
 
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doug720 said:
per Dougal in NZ.
Click to expand...

Crazy and OT but wonder if this is the same guy over on the MTBR forums. Kinda unique name and the fact that he is in NZ.
 
doug720 said:
What I described was how mine sounded when I first completed my swap, but my "rattle" sound stopped when the clutch pedal was pushed in. Mine turned out to be be a defective pilot bearing.

I also ended up adjusting my TO bearing so it just barely keeps in contact with the PP so it spins with no load all the time. My clutch set up was the old style that is supposed to be set up with a small gap. After many discussions on mud and 4BTswaps, I tried it and after 40k miles, no issues.

Mu rattle sound was also discussed on both sites, and several times the torsional vibrations of a 4 cylinder diesel was mentioned. This type of vibration can make the trans shafts rattle some. Isuzu uses special seals to help with this per Dougal in NZ.

I don't if you have had a chance to drive it enough to notice if the rattle gets louder when it warm? I found the cold gear oil made it quieter, and mine gets a little louder after a long drive.

How much flywheel weight are you running? My new engine will be around 62 pounds. The "Guru's" all have agreed that more is better, and should help smooth the 4's vibrations.

Keep the your head up and march forward, the end is near!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the encouraging words Doug. Not sure how much the flywheel weighs. It came in the adapter kit from Dustin (69rambler). It was a new machined flywheel and I'll have to check with him on the weight. Small steps at a time.
 
doug720 said:
What I described was how mine sounded when I first completed my swap, but my "rattle" sound stopped when the clutch pedal was pushed in. Mine turned out to be be a defective pilot bearing.

I also ended up adjusting my TO bearing so it just barely keeps in contact with the PP so it spins with no load all the time. My clutch set up was the old style that is supposed to be set up with a small gap. After many discussions on mud and 4BTswaps, I tried it and after 40k miles, no issues.

Mu rattle sound was also discussed on both sites, and several times the torsional vibrations of a 4 cylinder diesel was mentioned. This type of vibration can make the trans shafts rattle some. Isuzu uses special seals to help with this per Dougal in NZ.

I don't if you have had a chance to drive it enough to notice if the rattle gets louder when it warm? I found the cold gear oil made it quieter, and mine gets a little louder after a long drive.

How much flywheel weight are you running? My new engine will be around 62 pounds. The "Guru's" all have agreed that more is better, and should help smooth the 4's vibrations.

Keep the your head up and march forward, the end is near!
Click to expand...

For whatever it is worth mine doesn't rattle, I get vibrations/resonance if I lug in 4th gear though. I am using the oem manual flywheel with no added weight.

I'm using tim brotzge's (Diesel Tim) kit
 
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another little test drive today after doing the alternator wiring. Hope that I got it wired correctly. Took the white wire from alternator and ran it to the white on the Toyota harness. The white w/ blue stripe from alternator to the yellow Toyota. The big black wire from alternator plug to the terminal post on alternator and from that same post, a 6g wire to the battery positive. Finally the large white wire from Toyota harness to the positive post. Anyone see any problems with the way this is wired?

As for the test drive. Still got a little bit of rattle in the clutch area. It is more noticeable when I let off the gas and then back on it. I also have a bad vibration when down shifting. Could this be a bad pinion angle? Badly balanced drive shaft? Is there any way to bleed air from the power steering system? Very hard to turn. Maybe it just needs to be driven more.

As for the leak around the oil pan. For some reason I couldn't get one of the bolts in the rear of the oil pan near the flywheel cover. It seems to be leaking around the bolt hole. Do any of you see a reason why I couldn't loosen all the bolts up and try to move the oil pan back a little to get that last bolt in?
 
PIctures o fthe details would be nice. There are ways to do power steering flushes and bleeds. I am no expert but jacking the front end off the ground and turning the steering wheel lock to lock x 15 times helps. A friend under the hood with a bottle of power steering fluid for top ups is VERY handy.
 
Beside what Crusierdiesel said, could the hoses be reversed? I did this and it was very hard to turn the wheel.

On vibration - How was it before the swap? DS in phase? Bad U-joint? Did you move trans/TFC? Did DS shaft angle change? I kept my trans/TFC in stock location and DS angles stock.
 
doug720 said:
Beside what Crusierdiesel said, could the hoses be reversed? I did this and it was very hard to turn the wheel.

On vibration - How was it before the swap? DS in phase? Bad U-joint? Did you move trans/TFC? Did DS shaft angle change? I kept my trans/TFC in stock location and DS angles stock.
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When I bought the 60 I knew that it was going to be a project. It wasn't running when I got it and has been in the garage ever since. Not sure about the DS being in phase and the u-joints are the old stock ones. The trans/TFC were all moved forward about two inches. The DS angle is close to zero degrees.
 
Update time: got the bolt in the oil pan and I have no leaks now. Got the new master cylinder on but the brakes go to the floor. May need to adjust the push rod again. Anyone know the correct length for the push rod? Need to find a suitable tube to run between the air cleaner and the turbo charge pipe. Still have some vibration problems. Its getting there
 
Was the master bench bled before installation?

For the intake pipe - Check CXRacing. I got my pipe, hoses and clamps there.
 
doug720 said:
Was the master bench bled before installation?

For the intake pipe - Check CXRacing. I got my pipe, hoses and clamps there.
Click to expand...

No I didn't bench bleed the MC, is this bad?
 
Yes, it will never work without doing this.

Clamp MC in vice, you need some kind of tight fitting tubes that connect the brake line ports to the reservoir so it makes a fluid loop. Fill the MC with brake fluid and push the piston with a good fitting philips screw driver. Keep bleeding until no more air bubbles are seen in the fluid from the connector lines. Install MC and connect lines, bleed as usual.
 
I think that I got my drive line vibration taken care of. The drive shaft was out of phase. Took it out and rotated the slip yoke about a spline or two and it drives much nicer now.

Made a set up for bench bleeding the MC. Still think that I need to adjust the push rod out some. It not quite there yet. Now there is another brake issue. My brake light switch is good but not getting power to the switch itself. No brake lights is not good for driving on the road. Any ideas on how to track down the gremlin?
 
Did you check the fuse?
 
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