To swap in my factory locked axles into my 1992 or not? (1 Viewer)

Factory locked axles or ?

  • Retrofit them

    Votes: 4 50.0%
  • Wait for a full float rear to become available and go Harrop

    Votes: 2 25.0%
  • Sell the locked rear diff and find an unlocked one to regear/harrop/install

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Slinky Lift

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • other

    Votes: 1 12.5%

  • Total voters
    8

SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr

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Several months ago I was finally able to pick up a set of locked axles from a 97 LX450 and everything needed to complete the swap from a salvage yard (except the rear actuator and wiring plug for it). With 220k miles, they have half of what my axles have on them, but I would be surprised if these have ever been rebuilt.

IMG_9439.JPG


I have been really looking forward to getting these because they were affordable...or so I thought.

In a perfect world I would have already installed a set of Harrops and been on my way, but with the semi float rear axle, that just isn't an option for that axle. I've also really been looking forward to upgrading to rear disk brakes.

As far as I can tell 91/92 Cruisers have absolutely no wiring in place to easily swap over the factory locked axles. There aren't any wires for the switch or ECU, no cut outs in the dash, etc. If I were to do this, I would like to keep it as factory as possible using the factory switch.

In addition to the mess of wiring that would be involved, I am looking to go part time and preferably I would like to be able to actuate at least the rear locker in hi range. From the reading I have done, there is no way to bypass the OEM ECU and control the lockers without it due to the precise control and positioning required to engage and disengage them.

While I already have these axles, swapping the physical axles into place wouldn't be difficult, but I feel like the electronics to make them work would be a PITA. Over the years I have maybe heard/seen various Craigslist ads with 91/92s that have the factory lockers swapped in, but I have yet to really find anyone who has done it. Everything I have read refers to 93s and up.

IMG_9438.JPG


Here's my dilemma:

Keep and install the factory locked axles since I have them or wait until I can snag either both or just a rear axle from a newer unlocked cruiser. That could be quite some time and would require ponying up some serious money to put harrops into place along with regearing and new parts.

For about the same price, I can fully rebuild these locked axles, regear them, go part time, and still have money left over.

While I feel like at the end of the day I could figure it out, I'm not sure if it's truly the best route as I will never be getting rid of my cruiser and there is a superior option out there. Then again, I could be triple locked this summer whereas it could be awhile before I could get around to finding a set of newer unlocked axles and rebuilding/locking them.

Something I haven't quite seen done would be swapping out the factory locked rear diff for an unlocked one with a harrop in it. I've searched and haven't found anyone who has done that. All search results lead me the opposite direction with people wanting to put locked diffs in their unlocked housings.

This option, if feasible, would likely be what I would like to do as it would net me rear disk brakes, a full float axle, and one more locker than I have now. Then I could get around to locking the front when I have more money.
 
Joined
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Pendleton, Or
I have a 91. It has ARB's front and rear in the factory axles. Why not lock what you have? You don't gain much swapping to disks. I can stomp on the brakes and lock up all four tires with mine on dry pavement. Unless you are towing heavy loads, I can't see a need for more braking force than that. The semi vs full float thing is over rated. If you break either one it sucks and you probably need a stronger axle anyhow.
 

SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr

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My cruiser stopped locking up the brakes awhile back. The two 94s in the family have much better braking and I feel like I've exhausted everything I can do with the drums. Not really a huge deal, but I also would prefer to work with disks instead of drums. Same situation with the axle. I'd much rather work on a full floater than a semi float especially if dealing with breakage on a trail.

Locking what I have isn't really an option for the route I want to go. Harrops aren't available for the rear semi float and I'm not interested in an auto locker or air locker. Hence why I am looking to upgrade to a rear full floater anyway.
 
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Correct me if I’m wrong (which is frequently lately) but I believe foreign market 91-92 had lockers. Couldn’t you source parts from over the water?
 
Joined
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Salt Lake City, UT
The upgrade to disc breaks would be a great upgrade. One thing I looked into when I swapped a locked 100 into our LX470 was that SLEE makes a OEM locker actuator switch. You can put the factory locker switch in the square dash cutout, then run the wiring to the Slee controller then axle locker actuator. This does a few things that's slick. First, it eliminates almost all the wiring and need for the locker ECU. I am not sure on the 80, but the 100 required wiring going to the transfer case and several other places in the vehicle. This gives you the ability to lock up in high or low. I would look into this option as it might eliminate some of the problems you have mentioned.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
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Im going to be installing elocker axles in my 92, but since its mostly street driven I will not be in a hurry to wire up the lockers. I have all the pig tails and just have to connect the wires. I will probably just use simple generic Led's for the locker actuator engagement lights. Their should be a spot for the locker switch on the dash on yours. If not just install a 93 or 94 bezel in the dash. I will have to look at mine, could have sworn their was a spot for the factory switch. Another thing you could do is just use 2 way momentary switches to engage the lockers. Would not need the oem computer then and be simpler to wire up.
 
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Correct me if I’m wrong (which is frequently lately) but I believe foreign market 91-92 had lockers. Couldn’t you source parts from over the water?

They sure did, but that doesn't change the issue of retrofitting them into a vehicle without the wire harness, etc.

My question: Was there ever a 3FE/A440F cruiser with factory lockers? I would like to get an instrument cluster with the anemic redline and "PRND32L" shift indicator while having the locker lights.
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
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Chandler, AZ
Agree that full-float, bigger and disk brakes is a great upgrade, also a factory locker fan, for my use they work very well. That said, not having the wiring installed makes it a pretty big challenge. If I were to do it, would watch part outs, acquire harnesses, cut them open and harvest the wires/connectors needed. Put the needed wires back together, wrap as a sub harness, and run it parallel to the factory harnesses, that way it would match the later EWD. Big project, but would be the cleanest way to do it.
 
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... preferably I would like to be able to actuate at least the rear locker in hi range. From the reading I have done, there is no way to bypass the OEM ECU and control the lockers without it due to the precise control and positioning required to engage and disengage them. ...

Easy deal, just short the wires/connector to the CDL switch, the locker ECU thinks the CDL is locked all of the time, so the axle lockers can be used at anytime. The down side, anytime the locker switch is activated, the lockers lock, accidental, people messing with you, etc, my not be ideal? This is also easy to solve, simply switch the wires that went to the CDL switch, when the switch is on lockers work, off the lights will just blink.
 
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I would just manually wire up the lockers you have, I don’t see why it would be a huge issue as long as you get over the fact that it won’t be perfectly oem, which your tuck isn’t anyway so I don’t get the concern about making your own switches and whatnot.
 

mudgudgeon

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I
Locking what I have isn't really an option for the route I want to go. Harrops aren't available for the rear semi float and I'm not interested in an auto locker or air locker. Hence why I am looking to upgrade to a rear full floater anyway.

Sounds like you have your mind set on Harrops.

Another thing you could do is just use 2 way momentary switches to engage the lockers. Would not need the oem computer then and be simpler to wire up.

Wiring can actually be very simple. I built a control circuit for my retrofitted OEM lockers using relays and momentary double throw switches.
I since learnt you can leave out the relays, and use simple circuits using momentary double throw switches.
I used the CDL switch as a master switch to isolate power to the locker switches, but you could use your own switch as a master, then two switches for locker control.
The harness from switches to front and rear lockers is about as simple as wiring gets IMO, especially if you have pig tails
 

landtank

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I swappef in a set for a buddy and was able to install as OEM. its a bit of wiring and the speed circuit was tbe most chenging.

Youll need a 93/94 instrument panell to get the lens strip for the icons
 

landtank

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The factory setup wont allow the lockers to engage if the vehicle is moving more than 4 mph. So there is a wire tgat has to bevinstalled that goes from the speedometer to a controller.

When i fid it i had both a 91 anf 94 EWD to cross reference to get everything to eork.
 

SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr

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I would swap the factory, full float and disc brakes. You won't have factory wiring with the other locker choice either.

I would skip the whole factory wiring too. If it was there then yeah. In your case just install switches and be done. The ability to lock just the front might be appealing as well.

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)

Yeah I've seen that, and while I get the price, if I'm paying nearly $400 for fairly basic wiring, I want to be able to use the magic dial instead of some cheapo switches. I ordered a fresh one for the occasion so I'm partial to using it and at least giving everything the appearance of being factory.

I'm not worried about people messing with my lockers. I don't have kids, and I'm the only person who drives it 99% of the time. The OEM switch is also a little more foolproof than a rocker switch.

Interesting that the factory lockers don't engage at speeds greater than 4 miles per hour. I didn't know that.

I guess with either OEM or Harrop I still have to do a good amount of wiring. You guys are all motivating me to stay with the factory lockers and figure them out.
 

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