To swap in my factory locked axles into my 1992 or not? (1 Viewer)

Factory locked axles or ?

  • Retrofit them

    Votes: 4 50.0%
  • Wait for a full float rear to become available and go Harrop

    Votes: 2 25.0%
  • Sell the locked rear diff and find an unlocked one to regear/harrop/install

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Slinky Lift

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • other

    Votes: 1 12.5%

  • Total voters
    8
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
269
I haven't made a final decision but I am highly considering getting at least an unlocked rear diff and putting a Harrop in it along with 4.88s and installing it in my new rear axle and installing it so I would get rear disks, a locker, and full floating axle design. I just haven't quite figured out if the third members are interchangeable since I have read about different housing stud patterns between the non locked and locked axles.

That or I will just buy an unlocked full floater rear and sell off my entire set.

I'm not interested in making the OEM lockers work when a new surperior option is available that doesn't have actuators to fail or OEM ecus that have errors. I was wheeling with my brothers factory locked 80, which were regularly turned on and off, and the front locked up and never would disengage until using a 12v battery down there. There's still some issue with the ECU that he hasn't cared to fix. I'm just not really interested in going through all this work for things that can still fail, or rear splines that can twist and involve serious hacking to get into the rear end.


Valid points. All to be considered. Ultimately this is your rig so whatever floats your boat.

I would say that the Slee wiring harness or the 12v guy would bypass the ECU and there would be no errors to deal with, super simple. If you rebuild the actuators, which would not cost much, that would eliminate a lot of the unknowns on condition and durability. I think it would be a pretty option.

It ultimately sounds like you are set on Harrops, which is fine. I have looked at those but ultimately, it's cheaper if you with what you already have. I know you have had your rig for a long time and have not had lockers up to this point. I could see Harrops if you were seriously changing how you wheel, but if this is a "well, I might as well..." then I am not so sure that it may be the best of expenditures.

By the way, a HUGE fan of your rig. I have followed a long time in Expo and here. I have taken a few cues from your board (read-flat up stole!). I just moved up to Little Rock, AR area. I would love to see your rig in person.
 

SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr

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Messages
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Valid points. All to be considered. Ultimately this is your rig so whatever floats your boat.

I would say that the Slee wiring harness or the 12v guy would bypass the ECU and there would be no errors to deal with, super simple. If you rebuild the actuators, which would not cost much, that would eliminate a lot of the unknowns on condition and durability. I think it would be a pretty option.

It ultimately sounds like you are set on Harrops, which is fine. I have looked at those but ultimately, it's cheaper if you with what you already have. I know you have had your rig for a long time and have not had lockers up to this point. I could see Harrops if you were seriously changing how you wheel, but if this is a "well, I might as well..." then I am not so sure that it may be the best of expenditures.

By the way, a HUGE fan of your rig. I have followed a long time in Expo and here. I have taken a few cues from your board (read-flat up stole!). I just moved up to Little Rock, AR area. I would love to see your rig in person.

Yeah I plan to keep the cruiser forever so going with the factory lockers kind of seems like something I could and likely would regret in the future. If there is one thing my dad has taught me, it is to do things right the first time, and with the large expense of lockers I might as well spend a little more especially because I have had oem lockers develop issues personally while using them for no apparent reason. So in my mind it would be like owning a 1fz and worrying about a head gasket vs owning a 3FE and never even thinking about it....

I don't know the condition of this stuff, and I still don't have a rear actuator or plug for it. If I am going through all the trouble wiring, it might as well be for a more modern and robust design. The oem system could end up nickle and diming to the point where the harrops are about the same.

While tackling this, I will be doing extensive axle rebuilds, going part time, adding diff armor, and a truss up front so I will be in a considerable amount of time as it is, and I don't think I want to be dealing with any issues these lockers/ecu might have or could develop while trying to incorporate them into my '92. It would be totally different if I already had most of the infrastructure in place, but because I don't, I think my time and money is better used going a different route. At least if I go with the Harrops, I can do one axle and then do the other down the road...

I was out in Little Rock a couple times last year. Pretty cool area. I am hoping to be able to land a job in NWA within the next several years and move out there.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Orange County, Calif.
I swappef in a set for a buddy and was able to install as OEM. its a bit of wiring and the speed circuit was tbe most chenging.

Youll need a 93/94 instrument panell to get the lens strip for the icons

@landtank This is basically the PM I sent you, but re-sending since only certain members are able to attach pics to PMs :doh:. Anyhow, this is exactly what I have been trying to figure out / hoping will work for the Eaton / Harrop E-Locker I will be adding in the very near future to my 91 FJ80 3FE. Also, I am working on this in conjunction with swapping out the semi float rear axle in my FJ80 for a full float rear axle from a 96 FJZ80 donor.

Basically, I am trying to figure out a way to have the (very cool) encircled locker lights below from an FJZ80 lens strip added / replaced / swapped into my FJ80 instrument cluster lens strip when the OEM magic dial is turned onto the RR or FR/RR position. Would really appreciate further info on this. @SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr was also keen to figure out a solution on this out without it being a hack job.

Front & Rear Locker Indictor Lights.jpg
9AEBCBE5-7442-4D14-8C74-DD3DA8BFEF13_1_105_c.jpeg
 

landtank

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Messages
20,047
Location
Groveland MA
The easiest way would probably be to use the factory locker ecu. The ecu blinks the lights when the locker is activated and then displays the lights solid when it’s physically locked. That is done through a switch in the diff. For your purposes you’d permently jump those wires and the lights would be solid when selected.
You need the lens from a 93/94 cluster and I sourced pigtails at a local yard fir the missing wires in the 91 harness to drive the lights. There is more to it but you get the idea
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
2,534
I just bought the locker switch dial, then ran my arb through it, using the arb harness spliced into the factory wires already there , this eliminated running the power from the compressor to the battery since I used the Toyota wire plug already on the truck. This was for 94 and my 96
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Messages
18
Location
Orange County, Calif.
I just bought the locker switch dial, then ran my arb through it, using the arb harness spliced into the factory wires already there , this eliminated running the power from the compressor to the battery since I used the Toyota wire plug already on the truck. This was for 94 and my 96
Nice👍. I wish it were that easy for the FJ80 (1991s & 1992s) though which I am almost certain was not endowed with factory locker wires. Only the FJZ80s have the wiring ready to be plugged in / hidden behind the dash cutout where the OEM locker dial would go from my understanding.
 

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