Those running OEM Full-float axles...

[cruiseroutfit]

How are your axles holding up?

Any stud breakage?

Leaking?

How about those not running the inner-axle seal, any leakage?

Anyone get some aftermarket shafts yet?

My report: I have had my axle on the 40 for about 7 months now. Installed a new ARB & 4.88's at the same time. To date I have has ZERO leakage (flange or diff) and only had one minor problem. A single hub stud broke, all others were subsequently checked and found tight. The single stud "could" have broke as result of hitting something, but not very likely... I re-used all the original hardware and think that is was fatigued and cracked... No biggy. Other than that it has been flawledd, I have run alot of the same trails that took out my semi-float axles (three of em')... So far so good...

dd113?
Ferg?
Mike B?
Bob Devreux?

 

[beanz2]

I've had a rear FF for 4 years. I have zero problems too, but I make it a habit to tighten the studs every 2 days of wheeling. There have been times when I find a few that are loose by a quarter or a half turn. I run factory cable lockers but I try not to use them much.

I think the hub studs are prone to rust at the hub surface when water gets trapped in the space between the hub gasket and the studs. That is why when I rebuild a FF axle I pay close attention to this area:

The rust is deceiving since it causes a bulge along the stud surface, but when the rust is wire brushed away, there is deep groove in the metal underneath, just where the bending forces is concentrated, especially when the dowel pins are broken or missing:

High mileage axles from harsh environments such as Oz tend to show this kind of rust. I always use new studs in the rear FF, the old ones go into the spares box.

Are you saying some guys are running without inner axle seals?

If anyone comes up with aftermarket axles, I'd like to know. I know FROR has chromoly hub studs available, but I'd like to hear Bobby Long or PolyPerformance come up with a 4340 rear FF axle.

Dave

 

[CruisinGA]

I'll let DD113 speak for himself, but incase he ain't around for awhile:

Some dip**** fawker that used to work for him tried to kill it by dropping it and bending a spindle. (NO wasn't me )

He had one side loose a dowel, and then loosen up and then go all together, welded it back on somewheres out west, I think its fixed now.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...Are you saying some guys are running without inner axle seals?

Yes, there were a couple of people running without them (Jason M & Devreux)... They just made sure they had a really good axle flange to hub seal and a good wheel seal. That way, the wheel bearing are lubed by the gear lube rather than greese. I never heard back on results?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...I think the hub studs are prone to rust at the hub surface when water gets trapped in the space between the hub gasket and the studs. That is why when I rebuild a FF axle I pay close attention to this area

Good tech... Intersting, of the all the FF axles I have dealt with, none of them had much rust on the stud as shown, all of them were actually quite clean on the inside (with respect to rust).

I carry new spart dowel pins, spare studs & cone washers with me, and have a bundle of them on the shelf... Hope to swap mine out now rahter than in the mud on a long trail

 

[cruiseroutfit]

If anyone comes up with aftermarket axles, I'd like to know. I know FROR has chromoly hub studs available, but I'd like to hear Bobby Long or PolyPerformance come up with a 4340 rear FF axle.

I'm thinking of the chromo stud kit from FROR, not a bad seal, but what is gonna break next? Sometimes a fuse is a good thing.

I have a set of spare FF 60 shafts sitting on the shelf, I want to send them off to get duplicated, but havn't had the time to call around with the axle vendors and discuss the options...

Hopefully soon...

For everyone... If there was an aftermarket axle available... what is the most $$$ you would be willing to pay for a set?

 

[beanz2]

Yes, there were a couple of people running without them (Jason M & Devreux)... They just made sure they had a really good axle flange to hub seal and a good wheel seal. That way, the wheel bearing are lubed by the gear lube rather than greese. I never heard back on results?

I can see that working. If you look closely at the first pic I posted, there was plenty of 90W in that hub due to a leaky inner seal. Yet there was no signs of external leak whatsoever.

Someone talked about using 3/8" studs on the hubs? the ferg?
Dave

 

[bad_religion_au]

neva busted a stud touch wood... if stud breakage is an issue, redril and tap the hub to accept the bigger studs from a 100 series cruiser... check outerlimits4x4.com, think it;s in the general tech FAQ, if not search for 100 series studs or similar. think their 10mm instead of 8 or something

 

[mustardfj40]

For everyone... If there was an aftermarket axle available... what is the most $$$ you would be willing to pay for a set?

$400-$500 for a set of high quality chromoly axles.

/td

 

[beanz2]

neva busted a stud touch wood... if stud breakage is an issue, redril and tap the hub to accept the bigger studs from a 100 series cruiser... check outerlimits4x4.com, think it;s in the general tech FAQ, if not search for 100 series studs or similar. think their 10mm instead of 8 or something

Rob, LC 4x4 Parts (rock hopper) in Qld can do the conversion for AU$85 per side but shipping kills the deal for me, LOL.

Dave

 

[bad_religion_au]

so do it yourself . i'm sure dan or some other yota dealer could get them, or order the stude from an aust site, cause their only small, shipping wouldn't be too bad...

 

[Overlord]

Or maybe FROR can get some 10mm chromo studs.

As fare as the fuse thing is concerned, once you upgrade inner axles and do the stud/extra pin upgrade, I would think the R&P would be the next to go. So, the solution would be to carry a spare 3rd member.

 

[beanz2]

Yeah, all the 100 series studs, cone washers and spring washers are available from US dealers, so the only problem is getting the axle shaft tapers enlarged...

Dave

 

[Overlord]

Yeah, all the 100 series studs, cone washers and spring washers are available from US dealers, so the only problem is getting the axle shaft tapers enlarged...

Dave

I thought the 100 series in the US had a SF rear?

 

[beanz2]

From the front hub, same studs and cones.

Dave

 

[Overlord]

From the front hub, same studs and cones.

Dave

Didn't even think about that Toyota upgraded the studs in the front. Everyone mostly talks about the rear FF studs shearing.

 

[beanz2]

Yep, but the 78/79 and the 105's also get the larger M10 studs in the rear hub.


Dave

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Good tech... I am going to send off my spare shafts to an axle builder this fall.... I will report back on the pricing...

 

[theferg]

This is good stuff. I read that article about upgrading to 10mm studs from the 100 series, and might do it at some point, but first gonna for sure hafta find an excellent machine shop that could do it. Seems there's not much room on the hub itself for much bigger studs than what it already has. I've seen the pics of the upgraded 10mm ones and the amount of material left over between the stud and the hub body edge looks a little scary. Might be even scarier with some stonger than stock shafts runnin' in there. I kinda like what Dave D's done where he just added two more pins. Perhaps with 6 excellent studs (8mm, no rust), and four pins instead of two, it might last a while longer... I too like the idea of a fuse, just would hate to be drill out that s*** on the trail... 'Course I don't wheel much now do I...

Kurt, stronger shafts sound good. As to the pricing: Hell, I paid $275 or something like that for my brand new OEM short side so you know I'm good for the $500-600 or so range for a set of kick ass strong ass ones. Of course, that is, as long as they can roll those splines up a couple more inches on the short side...

-Ferg-

 

[beanz2]

PolyPerformance (PIG from POR board) can do any custom axles in 4340. I can see having double splined shafts made to OEM FF shaft specs except you run drive plates where the stock axle flanges are. Couple that with Airride's 4 dowel pin mod and FROR's chromoly studs or 100 series studs, you get a much stronger FF axle.

Dave