Builds The Story of Blue (8 Viewers)

[ClassyJalopy]

Next step was to consolidate the 50 bajillion connections into a neat little switching center made by Voswitch. My first attempt mount the switch panel on the inside was very rough looking:

Luckily, Ben @BenCC was willing to design a custom panel for the voswitch! The new panel is like everything else Ben has built - it fits great, and looks great too!

And here is the wiring nest I removed!

 

[MongooseGA]

That last pic is soo satisfying!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Mileage 175K:

The ironman bull bar had moved up slightly during the last outing and was rubbing the fenders on both sides. So I loosened the mounting bolts and adjusted it yesterday. Once I was happy with the placement, I also added a couple of pinch bolts that would keep the bumper from moving again!

The original powder coat is fading, I need to figure out if I should get it powder coated again or should I put some sort of bed liner on it.

 

[MongooseGA]

Being able to adjust like that is handy. I'd managed to tweak the 'wings' on my ARB and it was making contact the same way. Had to use a BFH to get it flattened back again and spray paint to coat the surface rust last week.

IMO bed liner would be cool. The powder is nice to begin with, but I'd have a hard time paying for a recoat that was going to get so beaten up and not easily touched up. Or satin spray paint.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Quick tool free oil change at 175K. Fomoto valve makes the oil change a quick affair! Mobil 5w-30 non-high mileage version and Mobil M1 209A filter which is about 50% larger than OEM but fits just perfect.

Also, noticed the steering rack is leaking more than I like. Looks like I should start planning for that!

 

[94SRUNNER]

Also, noticed the steering rack is leaking more than I like. Looks like I should start planning for that!

Its never to early to start planning for a rack replacement!

 

[MongooseGA]

Curious about your non- high mileage oil. Do you prefer that over the high mileage stuff? I've always used the latter in my truck; just assumed it was the way to go.

That valve is the best thing I've done for maintenence routines. That and the form-a-funnel for the filter.

 

[94SRUNNER]

@MongooseGA what type of form-a-funnel do you use? I've been look at one.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Curious about your non- high mileage oil. Do you prefer that over the high mileage stuff? I've always used the latter in my truck; just assumed it was the way to go.

That valve is the best thing I've done for maintenence routines. That and the form-a-funnel for the filter.

Yes this form-a-funnel saves a lot of cleanup effort. The slee front tray has a very convenient cut out for the filter:
Amazon product ASIN B08R5YYQJ6
I don't put High Mileage stuff in my truck ever since @2001LC reported that the seal rejuvenating chemicals in it causes our 2UZ-FEs to start leaking! I also experienced that first hand on Golden when I first switched it over to synthetic.
I change my oil every 5k miles anyway, so I figured non-high mileage one doesn't have any downsides. BTW, Mobil claims these oils should last 20K miles!!

 

[MongooseGA]

@MongooseGA what type of form-a-funnel do you use? I've been look at one.

I have the large sized name brand one. It's great.

Yes this form-a-funnel saves a lot of cleanup effort. The slee front tray has a very convenient cut out for the filter:
Amazon product ASIN B08R5YYQJ6
I don't put High Mileage stuff in my truck ever since @2001LC reported that the seal rejuvenating chemicals in it causes our 2UZ-FEs to start leaking! I also experienced that first hand on Golden when I first switched it over to synthetic.
I change my oil every 5k miles anyway, so I figured non-high mileage one doesn't have any downsides. BTW, Mobil claims these oils should last 20K miles!!

Good to know. I'll look that up!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

As part of electrical stuff upgrade I bought a new pair of Ironman turn signal lights. They also have parking and DRL built in that I didn't wire up.
Also, cleaned up the connection to the Baja Design fogs with amber cover.

Anybody want these older LEDs? They work just fine and come with the pigtails. Just pay shipping and they are yours!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Posted it elsewhere, but I am really liking these splash guards from owl expedition @Ramathorn15

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Outer boot clip on passenger side cv axle decided it doesn't want to do its job any longer . The output shaft seal also started to leak. So I took the knuckle off and refreshed the grease in the boot and put a new pair of rolled edge clips on it.

Also installed a fresh diff side seal and finished with fresh oil in the diff. Didn't take many pics during this unpleasant job. Also, noticed the 555 brand lower bj has flush rusted on the surface. Gotta hit it with some Rust converter and paint soon.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Mileage 175,700

There always have been a pretty noticeable clunk every time I shifted from R to D. Lately I started noticing that at low speeds, when I get back on the gas after coasting for a little bit, there would be "thud" in the drivetrain. It almost feels like there is some play in the drive shafts or over too much lash in the diffs.
I have checked both front and rear drive shafts and didn't notice any play or looseness in the universal joints.
So for the first step I decided to change the rubbers supporting the front diff. On my previous truck that made a world of difference. The notorious front mounting bush came out without much drama with just a chisel. Pressed in the new one and replaced the two arms. I have yet to go out for a drive to see it made any difference.

Parts list (from Partsouq.com)
52380-60030 SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL $88.94
52380-60040 SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL $89.59
41651-60010 CUSHION, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, NO.1 $22.35
41653-60010 STOPPER, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER$ 19.73
41653-60020 STOPPER, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER $19.73

The front support arm bushing was actually collapsed. Others were cracked and somewhat compressed.

Torque specs from the FSM

 

[silvarshooter]

I need to do this, thanks for the parts # list.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I need to do this, thanks for the parts # list.

Chow Cares has a helpful video on it too:

 

[YezusLX]

His videos are great. However, he has the easiest LC EVERrrrr to work on. Nothing seized, rusted, or improperly installed by some jack wagon. I am jealous. We need him to do a video of him working on something with at least 10 or more curse words.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

A few interior updates that I have been meaning to do for a while:

1. Replaced the original cup holders and with @CruiserDM supplied deep cup holders.
2. Replaced the rear panel with @BenCC supplied panel with two holes for the 12v/USB outlet. Old one was a just the OEM panel with holes drilled in it.
3. Took off the center console panel which had locker and compressor switches installed and replaced with a 2003+ plus version.
4. PO had the bottom of the center storage box cutout (perhaps it was done by the shop when they took off the CD changer). There was a custom made panel added to block out opening at the bottom. I bought this larger storage compartment off of eBay from a truck that didn't have CD changer and swapped it in. The different in the storage space is HUGE!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Another project I tackled earlier but didn't post here was to re-index the torsion bars. This was necessary to bring the AHC pressures within normal range..
After reindex I checked the pressures and was surprised to find fronts at 4.6 and rear at 5.5 . Had to make a quick trip to Milwaukee and the Chicago sp I decided to run like that. The ride was ROUGH!

Today, I lifted the front wheels and a few ugga dugga later, I am right at the normal range
Will have to test drive later to see what difference it'd make.

 

[UltraFJ40]

Dang, nice thread. I totally have missed it maybe I should leave chat more than once a year.