The Slow Roll: 1980s BJ45 Troopy Rescue

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Joined
Jan 12, 2025
Threads
7
Messages
46
Location
Alaska
Hey folks -

Finally getting this project off the ground after a summer of other projects. But the snow has fallen in Alaska and it's time to move indoors.

By way of introduction, this vehicle was born in Japan in 1980 or 1982 as a 3B-equipped BJ45, meant for the European market. It made its way to Iceland where it lived until the late 90's when it was imported to Alaska. The Alaskan title has it listed as a 1982 model, but the VIN suggests 1980 (the year of my own birth). As far as I know the distinction is immaterial - like me it's in rough shape.

Most of the unverifiable information ^^^ I have on the vehicle was related to me by the PO, whose memory on certain topics and the location of certain parts was often hazy (understandably so). Essentially the story goes that he acquired it for his collection (he has many, many 40-series LCs in various states of disrepair on his property) but never made much headway with it. He stripped it down to the chassis and tub 10-15 years ago and stored away most of the component pieces alongside others of their kind around his property - garage, field, shack, brushpile. The chassis and tub sat outside in the weather.

I made a handshake agreement with the PO for a "complete vehicle" which meant spending spring and summer weekends of 2025 at his place, picking through bins of parts to find one of each, hopefully diesel-specific, and hauling them home. This was good for me. Although this wasn't my first LC, I didn't know much about them (still don't!) and learned a lot through this process. The PO offered me either a 2F or 2H engine with an H42 tranny, as he wanted to keep the 3B and original H41. I opted for the 2H.

I still don't have a "complete" vehicle, but I've got enough to get started.

troopy_yard_sale_small.webp


IMG_4675_small.webp
 
Ughhh wish you were closer. I have BJ45 (84) I’m going to pull the running 3B and 4 speed out of to replace. Would be happy to have you have that.

Alaska to Oklahoma is a long road trip. No hurry on my end, got a few projects in front of it.
 
I got the engine home and started looking it over. It was missing the bellhousing and injectors and maybe a few other pieces. I started posting on forums and looking for a bellhousing. I also discovered that the engine exists in the rare intersection between the early-type and late-type 2Hs - it has an early-type timing cover but a late-type block (parent bore). Reportedly Toyota wanted to get through their existing stock of timing covers before switching to the new style that eventually became part of the late-type 2H. This pegged it around late 1984 to early 1985, if I recall correctly. In any case it needed a late-type bellhousing.

In my search for a bellhousing, I did stumble across someone who is possibly the original owner of this engine, although we didn't confirm that 100%. He informed me that, if it is indeed his former engine, it likely has a cracked cylinder head. To make a long story short, although I haven't verified this engine has a cracked head, I got to thinking about engine alternatives. More on that later.

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Ughhh wish you were closer. I have BJ45 (84) I’m going to pull the running 3B and 4 speed out of to replace. Would be happy to have you have that.

Alaska to Oklahoma is a long road trip. No hurry on my end, got a few projects in front of it.

Ha! Yeah it's a long way, I've made the drive twice - I'm from Tulsa originally.
 
Summer wore on. I had other projects to deal with - mobile sauna, boat, paint the house. The 2H sat on the shop floor, mostly in the way. I had borrowed a cherry picker from a friend but had to give it back. The 2H is about 700 lbs and sliding it across the floor was real work. The shop itself is pretty old for Alaska (1969) and the roll up door is tiny - I cannot fit my daily driver Tundra inside. It was a pain trying to use the cherry picker in front of the shop in the soft gravel, which is where I had to unload the engine, tranny, etc. So while keeping an eye out for a used cherry picker I let the wheels spin a little bit and realized I might be able to just fab something up. I do a lot of woodworking and had some timbers sleepers I bought for pennies off a trucker that was bringing big pipe sections up to the oilfield. So I decided to build a rolling gantry with a $35 Vevor 1-ton chain hoist I had.
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Then I picked up the tranny to get the 5" casters off its cart:

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Then moved the 2H into the least offensive spot:
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Then wheeled it outside to pick up the body off the '45:
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And finally, move the chassis into the shop:
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Then I started looking at the frame.

According to the PO, it had a coat of POR 15 before it sat outside for a decade or so. It's not terribly rusty, although it's clear the frame suffered at some point before being treated. This is typical of the condition on much of the frame:
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Other spots suggest it was pretty rusty before recoating:
IMG_5845.webp


What do you think of this?
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Given the overall condition is mostly like the first pic above - how should I proceed? I was prepared to run wire wheel, flap disc and stripper disc over the whole frame a but not sure what's appropriate at this point. Can I just scuff up the decent parts before recoating? Or take it down to bare metal everywhere?

Also, how much remediation of the few rusty spots like the last pic above is necessary? I'm a pretty novice welder running a little 140 MIG machine but can see about more serious repairs if necessary.

After that, I've ordered a knuckle rebuild kit and some diff gaskets so I can get those put back together:
IMG_5846.webp
 
Ughhh wish you were closer. I have BJ45 (84) I’m going to pull the running 3B and 4 speed out of to replace. Would be happy to have you have that.

Alaska to Oklahoma is a long road trip. No hurry on my end, got a few projects in front of it.
Do i need to rent a trailer next week to haul that 3B and 4spd back with me?!?
 
If you have a 3000+psi pressure washer I’d buy one of the sandblaster attachments off Amazon and use it. For the little cost of sand (make sure you keep it dry) and the attachment you’ll come out ahead and spend less time stripping the frame to bare metal. You could also do the axles while you’re at it once you get them buttoned back up.

As seen here: on page #6 post 101
 
If you have a 3000+psi pressure washer I’d buy one of the sandblaster attachments off Amazon and use it. For the little cost of sand (make sure you keep it dry) and the attachment you’ll come out ahead and spend less time stripping the frame to bare metal. You could also do the axles while you’re at it once you get them buttoned back up.

As seen here: on page #6 post 101
That's a really interesting idea actually. Unfortunately my pressure washer is max 2300 psi, which is plenty to wash the cars. I will keep this in mind for the body, however. The tub is in pretty bad shape.
 
I hate to rain on your parade but from zooming in on a few pictures, I would absolutely strip the coating off all of that frame before spending a nickel or minute on anything else.
It may be held together by the por treatment and be Swiss cheese in places.
That large plate patch needs to go, but look just underneath it. It's not just the holes that are an issue, it's the rust thinning out all the adjacent metal to paper thin that is an equal, and not immediately visible problem.
And That section is right where the spring perch is, structurally very important to be strong and there is nothing helping the spring perch given the Swiss cheese right above it underneath the patch.


Sandblasting that frame or chemical dip is really the only way you're going to see everything, a flap wheel isn't as indiscriminate as a sandblaster at finding the holes and thin areas.
Flap wheels take down the high spots, they don't necessarily expose the low (thin) spots.
 
@rkymtnflyfisher are you also from Tulsa? I read your build thread the other day actually, really useful.
I am, born and raised there until I left in 98. Never really turned back after I found mountains!
 
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