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After sandblasting

Still will dremel them some.
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Had some areas that after the first sandblast still wouldn't clean up. Soaked them with carb cleaner, then hit with brush. That worked on everything except for the egr tube. On the back left side of the intake manifold is EGR valve incoming gasses. Discovered from there it goes through tube cast into the manifold to right in the center of the intake. This point was solid packed with oily gunk.

Used a pick as much as possible, then Finally just sandblasted it out.



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Started on the block too. Taped it all off to keep it clean. Wire brushed everything real good even found a dremel cone shaped wire brush that was great in the corners and tight areas. I never used the engine primer but since everything suggested using it, went ahead. Shot 2 coats of black.


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On the aluminum parts since I did so much sandblasting, I wanted to make them really clean, so I power washed all of them inside and out. Hopefully that gets rid of all the sand. Have all those parts drying out for paint tomorrow.
I also took a picture of two intake manifolds, with and without the cleanup work.

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Clevite bearings came in from rock auto, so will start reassembly soon.
 
Couldn't sleep this morning, so went out and started some powder coating.
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Thanks man...

Blurry, but looks pretty good. I need to quit using my cell phone for pics.....
 
half k, saw your post about refreshing your 97 lc. Got an offer for you depending on the miles of your rig.

Since you are a local and member of TAC, I would be willing to let you "borrow" my old engine and you can rebuild it at your leisure, then swap it into your rig. This should keep your downtime to a minimum.

Now, the downside is that this engine will need the crank turned down on the con rods, and get oversized bearings.

Engine had 180k miles, so not too bad.

Once the swap is done, give me your old motor that I can rebuild and put into the next rig.
 
half k, saw your post about refreshing your 97 lc. Got an offer for you depending on the miles of your rig.

Since you are a local and member of TAC, I would be willing to let you "borrow" my old engine and you can rebuild it at your leisure, then swap it into your rig. This should keep your downtime to a minimum.

Now, the downside is that this engine will need the crank turned down on the con rods, and get oversized bearings.

Engine had 180k miles, so not too bad.

Once the swap is done, give me your old motor that I can rebuild and put into the next rig.

Thats actually not a bad idea. I'm not sure if you are in a hurry, I won't be doing anything with mine until next summer at the earliest ( well, thats the plan, unless it blows up ). The only dealbreaker might be the crank, not sure what my shop charges to turn one. Although it would be very nice to just pull and motor and place a motor. Heck, you could do that in a long summer day.
 
Well, keep it in mind. I agree that the crank makes it less than perfect.

I have a parts rig with 310k on the odometer with a blown head gasket too, but we would have to pull that motor.
 
I'm beginning to envision something of a Land Cruiser graveyard where your lawn should be !

My wife has comments that refer to that sometimes....Of course, it would take less time to mow then....
 
Gotcha. Only way I am doing that is if I need to see rocks go by.
 
My daughter and I started reassembling the engine and the thrust washers seem to be having too much movement. Currently I have .04 inches of movement using the old thrust washers. from the FSM I should have less than .01. My used thrust washers are .0975 inches or 2.4 mm thick each and I need to decrease the total gap by .03 inches, does anyone know how thick the stock thrust washers are?
 
Anyone?
 

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