The safaries restriction will increase exponentially the further you go past 200hp most noticeable in the spool up rpm of your setup
The "Official" 1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Airbox/Intake Mod Thread (1 Viewer)
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Will work fine without a snorkel .
I'm not ready to make the leap to a full ghetto 4"stainless snorkel.
Personal preference issues.
Installed the airbox. Straight from 23-24psi to 28-29psi. Induction noise is reasonably obnoxious without anything in front of the airbox.
Personal preference issues.
Thanks for the answer.
Installed the airbox. Straight from 23-24psi to 28-29psi. Induction noise is reasonably obnoxious without anything in front of the airbox.
AussieHJCruza
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Come on! Go the whole setup...
Hey mate are you saying your boost increased 4-5psi without any other changes other than the air box upgrade? I'm running a bad boy atm with standard air box and safari snorkel an my air filter restriction light is already coming on at 21-22psi
trying to justify the whole air box upgrade, this may be good enough reason for me to do so...
I'm hearing you on this!
Even a 3" mandrel bend snorkel would be better than a safari.
You could have one made and powder coated or painted in body colour so it stands out a little less.
If your not fording rivers, or driving dusty roads, run it without a snorkel.
A snorkel is not going to increase airflow over what you have done now.
Will be much happier .
Only downside is noise which is again amplified by open ended snorkels like a 4" over the cab job .
I always thought a 4" snorkel looked a bit big that was untill I did some measurements . Up the pillar a 4" only protrudes 10mm more than a safari . Have it sunken into the guard a bit. Powdercoat it to blend in with the car, black does look good in my opinion and I like Ram head, like in the above pic
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I'm warming up to the 4" snorkel. Especially with regard to ram head and black finish. Aesthetics aside, some water seperation properties would be necessary this time of year in the tropics. While the design of the moonlight fab airbox is pretty spot on (inlet lower half, outlet uppper half), I don't want that paper panel filter getting wet.
As it is at the moment, with the 4" inlet drawing air through the front guard, there is far too much opportunity for foreign material to get in that air box.
A quick google for "4" ram head" returned a result for an $80 donaldson 4" ram head. The description had the buzz-word "mudding" in it- so you know it's good.
As it is at the moment, with the 4" inlet drawing air through the front guard, there is far too much opportunity for foreign material to get in that air box.
A quick google for "4" ram head" returned a result for an $80 donaldson 4" ram head. The description had the buzz-word "mudding" in it- so you know it's good.
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- #169
yeah it would be a waste of time and money in my opinion to do a serious airbox upgrade and not touch the snorkel.
The Donaldson are bulkier than the safari, taller too and flimsier . If you have them side by side the safari is much better quality. If you choose safari make sure its the 4" one not the more common 3.5" one rrp is $120
I think the above snorkel was built by On Track Fabrication in WA Australia
I think the above snorkel was built by On Track Fabrication in WA Australia
To my suprise the pressure drop was 1.6 psi. Does that seem plauable or is my testing flawed?
I included a pic of my mocked up intake modification...adding an inline airfilter that will breath fresh air from the hood scoop. I don,t have any plans for a snorkel.
Is the airbox resonator restrictive?
Great reading this and other threads here on Mud.
View attachment IMG_1152.JPG
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I wouldn't think 1.5 drop is out of the ordinary. You are pretty much doubling the cfm of the origional design.
Did you look at the attachment pic of new air filter being added. What do you think
if someone can do some post filter pre turbo pressure readings with 25lbs of boost or like a cfm rating then there would be a more technical answer as oppose to me saying I think it should work. I mean square boxes aren't my first choice but it really comes down to just fitting the dawgone thing in there, filtering crap out all with low pressure drop. I would thing the vendor could manage that? Not too much to ask? On the stock air box I doubt the filter is your restriction, but rather the diameter of the inlet and outlet for the box piping.
Edit, I thought you were asking about the square air box up top of the page....erm nice piping.what is it for? Dual air boxes?
Edit, I thought you were asking about the square air box up top of the page....erm nice piping.what is it for? Dual air boxes?
The piping connects from the turbo to a 4" leg on the Y fitting. One 3" leg goes to the stock airbox the other 3" leg goes to the new inline airbox and breathes from the rear of the tmic hood scoop.
No problem I misunderstood. Holy cow man did you weld that pipe? Your more than capable of making your own air filter box. I use to knock snorkels as being pretty cheesy, but I noticed a solid 100F drop in my egt from my stock 3B filter sucking hot engine air after I put my ebay knock off snorkel on. The stock box draws air from in the fender right behind the lights too. Seemsed like a fairly good location to get cold air, but lots of hot air regurgitates all over the place in the bay. Im convinced a snorkel is a great performance mod as long as its sized to the cfm. I plan on a 4-4.5 inch job on my 80 when I do the isuzu swap.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
if aesthetics ain't important for you ..
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I'd be curious to know how much the FZ lid did for flow.
I personally don't like this concept at all.
Any details on the inline filter?
the air will primarily be drawn in via the path of least resistance. If the inline filter is less restrictive, majority of your intake air will be through it. If the filtration isn't up to par, you're potentially feeding your baby dirty air.
FWIW, the genuine toyota filters generally flow better and with better filtration than many aftermarket filters. You may get less pressure drop with a genuine filter.
