I was actually just playing with that idea today. Or a progressive wound spring would be ideal.
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I was actually just playing with that idea today. Or a progressive wound spring would be ideal.
Okay, so it wasnt your pin, so why was it in there? I wouldnt sell a customer a pump with unknown bits in it.
Doesn't matter really. Just means I get to work with the customers that you fall short on.
Day in and day out, life's a hard nut eh?
Geez what a drama queen. Pic attatched of the pin via foreal. I said to put a stock pin in. Not a stock pin that's been ground a bit. It's pretty much irrelevant anyway. To tune it correctly to 20+ psi. That pin or any stock pin is not going to work.
Why would you tell him to put a stock pin in if he's planning to run over 20?
I didn't. Just supplying a pin that he can drive with until he is confident enough to grind and tune his own blank.
1 thing I'm not going to do. Is give away too much information. I've had custom springs made, and cnc machined pins. But depending on intercooler type/pump injector condition etc etc. the grind still has to be tuned to match.
1 thing I'm not going to do. Is give away too much information. I've had custom springs made, and cnc machined pins. But depending on intercooler type/pump injector condition etc etc. the grind still has to be tuned to match.
did a new stock pin get sent out ,sounds like a major foo foo. lucky it wasnt run in the truck. and ya i dont think there are to many tuners that actually build pumps, i only know one, thats why i believe if your buying a pump you want to have the pump builder and tuner on the same page, period. hope all works out with the pump. yota you should touch bases with a tuner, like maybe john at ateb. so it seems that all the mods are only controlling when and how much fuel comes on and off,but once that is achieved how do you get the pump to pump more fuel ,is the real mystery, no?
Not a major foo foo at all. See the pic, 1 side is ground, just turn it to the non altered side. That's always going to be a temp item though. It's impossible to tune anything remotely. The DT/FT pumps are capable in standard form of producing a lot of fuel. More than enough for the average person.
All I can say is that when I needed help quickly with my g-turbo, the settings for that, and then a high performance clutch for the 1HDFT in the US, TheBigBoy came through immediately, efficiently and extremely helpful and went out of his way to fix my problems (that were entirely created by myself).
J
- Thread starter
- #210
Yotahed isn't coming off like a prick. The same thing can be said about tbb. We are all here to learn is right. Yotahed builds and tunes pumps for a living
I think what he means is that it's kinda cheesy that a hack job of a pin was sent on such a high quality product with no advice or anything on how to make a better pin. Either way a better profile could have been provided....
...via IH8MUD app
hmmm... im sure a hard lesson has been learned by all involved. but on the fuel reserve guestion i think anyone wanting fuel pump mods is not looking for average thats why the mods are evolving , its a addition addiction,just look at the patrols . ive been running custom ground pins for a few years now, just hoping there is another level to be had . if i had a turbo guy designated to the toyota diesel close by like g im sure the ip would be matched maxed out. yota seems to be a helpfull guy who doesnt hold any trade secrets . im thinking he is the guy who has access to r&d resources more than anyone and is devoting for hp mods on the toyota diesels. he was sent a pump for a compentcy check and probably should have let the customer deal with it . but he is also a mud member (all be it new) with a solid interest in landcruisers as well as this pump mod thread first and formost, and is actually in the industry of rebiuling pumps. could be big advances for fuel to match the ever evolveing turbos.
- Thread starter
- #212
I personally like that a local Canadian is doing this sort of thing on here and is putting all the pump voodoo to rest.
Rumor has it he is building up a hopped up 1hd-t pump
In all reality the cummins guys can get 300hp out of a 12mm ve pump
I doubt a 13mm or 14mm is truly needed. 13mm would be nutty 14mm is absolutely nuts unless your pulling a sled
Rumor has it he is building up a hopped up 1hd-t pump
In all reality the cummins guys can get 300hp out of a 12mm ve pump
I doubt a 13mm or 14mm is truly needed. 13mm would be nutty 14mm is absolutely nuts unless your pulling a sled
Yota, Biggie, thanks for sharing guys. (and Graham & Karter, for that matter, many others) I know there will always be a bit of proprietary/commercial stuff held back, that's cool, I totally get it, but it's great that you're still willing to help out the B Teams.We're all after the same thing, cruisers that pull like trains and fly. It just makes it so much easier to tow everyone else
My serial number states that my pump is a 10mm but the pin is symmetrical and 11mm.
Does that sound right? Could someone have bored it to take the bigger pin at some point?
What else might have been done/changed?
Why would they use such a crap pin?
I don't like unsolved mysteries...,
Does that sound right? Could someone have bored it to take the bigger pin at some point?
What else might have been done/changed?
Why would they use such a crap pin?
I don't like unsolved mysteries...,
Aaaah, I know so little, it'd be great to get my hands on some good info for these things. There's a lot on tuning here and there, but nothing to explain the mechanics and operation if the things.
I just had my mate machine me up a few blank pins, now we're going to have some fun 
I still haven't come across anyone with a symetrical pin like mine, I really did question what I was seeing, so we spun it up in the lathe to see whether it wobbled or how much
Steady and smooth, no dount about it, symetrical, the first one I've come across/heard of.
I'm guessing it's someone else's attempt at a custom pin.
On manufacturing blank pins
My mate doesn't want to do one pin at a time as he's always busy, but he's happy to do sets of 3 for $100 or $40 each, PM me if you want his number. He'll borrow your pin as the template. You go direct to him.
He is a professional first class machinist, has been for over 40 years. As well as the lathes, he is also set up with a decent size mill and all the other gadgets a boffin would require. He's set up for anything and loves what he does for a living
I still haven't come across anyone with a symetrical pin like mine, I really did question what I was seeing, so we spun it up in the lathe to see whether it wobbled or how much
Steady and smooth, no dount about it, symetrical, the first one I've come across/heard of.
I'm guessing it's someone else's attempt at a custom pin.
On manufacturing blank pins
My mate doesn't want to do one pin at a time as he's always busy, but he's happy to do sets of 3 for $100 or $40 each, PM me if you want his number. He'll borrow your pin as the template. You go direct to him.
He is a professional first class machinist, has been for over 40 years. As well as the lathes, he is also set up with a decent size mill and all the other gadgets a boffin would require. He's set up for anything and loves what he does for a living
Last edited:
Does anyone cut pins like this for 1HZ's? (Denny stage 2)
I'm nearly ready to start modding a new pin and am wondering whether I should just use the original (de edged & extended ramp) profile or something more aggressive. I want to get everything my 10mm pump can deliver. Where I want it...
The experiment:
I'm going to machine the cam flat, swap two thick washers for two thin ones, start with the spring wound to the bottom. This will give me max bottom to max top pin range of movement as well as a constant relationship between boost and spring.
Bearing blue the pin to find my ramp start point, push it to the bottom to find the other end. By taking the spring height and cam variables out of the equation I can then just focus on the pin without the need for any black magic.
Also, I've read from a reliable source, the maximum guide pin throw is 6.8mm which tells me there is no point in grinding the pin any deeper.
I'm nearly ready to start modding a new pin and am wondering whether I should just use the original (de edged & extended ramp) profile or something more aggressive. I want to get everything my 10mm pump can deliver. Where I want it...
The experiment:
I'm going to machine the cam flat, swap two thick washers for two thin ones, start with the spring wound to the bottom. This will give me max bottom to max top pin range of movement as well as a constant relationship between boost and spring.
Bearing blue the pin to find my ramp start point, push it to the bottom to find the other end. By taking the spring height and cam variables out of the equation I can then just focus on the pin without the need for any black magic.
Also, I've read from a reliable source, the maximum guide pin throw is 6.8mm which tells me there is no point in grinding the pin any deeper.
- Is that measurement universal?
- Or is it different for 10mm, 11mm, 12mm pumps?
- Do these pins wear?
- Does it make any difference using an extended pin?
- Thread starter
- #219
should be universal.
I am looking at a profile something along the lines of one of these.
I don't want a smokey mess of a truck so I think a slight hybrid pin is in order.
The M1 pin seems like a good start half way down it changes pitches again for a big fuel dump (well into your boost)
The first M3 (supposed to be M2) is something you can look at.
BTW these are the M&H fuel pins. The denny T pins are just going to be a smokey mess in my opinion.
You want to have clean AFRs on that 1HZ for some reliability.
I am looking at a profile something along the lines of one of these.
I don't want a smokey mess of a truck so I think a slight hybrid pin is in order.
The M1 pin seems like a good start half way down it changes pitches again for a big fuel dump (well into your boost)
The first M3 (supposed to be M2) is something you can look at.
BTW these are the M&H fuel pins. The denny T pins are just going to be a smokey mess in my opinion.
You want to have clean AFRs on that 1HZ for some reliability.
That measurement (6.8mm) would be the same or very close across all denso aneroid top covers. They all use the same link inside. So that would be your absolute maximum fuel at that travel.
The pins dont generally wear much, they re usually lubed up with assy lube, or in a old pump the oil seeps in from the diaphragm. Not really a worry.
An extended pin could be fashioned (probably not much longer) to gain a tad more adjustability with a longer pin profile. Broader range of on and off boost fuelling adjustment. IE, Fashion the bottom half to give you a nice off boost range(shallow ramp) and progress into a deeper ramp to your on boost range. The M2 and M3 pins above are a good example. Just imagine it a bit longer. But remember you only have so much space above the top of the diaphragm, so a spacer gasket would need to fashioned to gain use of the extra length and travel.
The Denny T pins are designed for cummins truck which have an extra litre and change of displacement and more boost and more fuel than a 1HZ or HDT in a truck that is tuned up. A smokey mess is right. You could probably use one, but imagine youd only use the profile untill about halfway up.
The pins dont generally wear much, they re usually lubed up with assy lube, or in a old pump the oil seeps in from the diaphragm. Not really a worry.
An extended pin could be fashioned (probably not much longer) to gain a tad more adjustability with a longer pin profile. Broader range of on and off boost fuelling adjustment. IE, Fashion the bottom half to give you a nice off boost range(shallow ramp) and progress into a deeper ramp to your on boost range. The M2 and M3 pins above are a good example. Just imagine it a bit longer. But remember you only have so much space above the top of the diaphragm, so a spacer gasket would need to fashioned to gain use of the extra length and travel.
The Denny T pins are designed for cummins truck which have an extra litre and change of displacement and more boost and more fuel than a 1HZ or HDT in a truck that is tuned up. A smokey mess is right. You could probably use one, but imagine youd only use the profile untill about halfway up.
Last edited: