The Mule.

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So today I did the SeaFoam thing. It did not smoke like I thought it would.

I poured a 3rd pint in the brake booster vacuum and shut it down. Waited five minutes like the can says and started it back up. Ran it until it stopped smoking. I though it would smoke more...

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Using SeaFoam on Vimeo

Well, it apparently did something because I ended up with quite puddle of oil under the truck. Seems it cleaned out the crud to really let loose on the front side leak. Fxxx. I am pretty sure it is the front seal now. I think I did not properly center it when I seated the timing gear cover. Guess I will take a weekend and re-do that and the rear main. I plan on using different "goo" and all OEM gaskets.

I also attempted to hook the temp gauge to the second sensor I have in the engine I failed to pay attention to. It is smoked. It did nothing.

So this evening we took the leaky bastard to dinner and on the way home the temp gauge read perfect. Right in the middle where it should be. I am thinking with all the connecting and disconnecting I did it may have rubbed it the right way. Fxxxing Gremlins.

Also I took what appear to be factory door panels off the interior. I have never seen these on a 40 before...

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They have to be factory because the door access panel to the rear of the window crank was sealed with clear plastic and tar goo like on today's cars.
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Thanks Aaron. Interesting read there. Did you end up with a set yet? Sounds like they are not super rare but a bit unusual if Mark has never seen them!
 
Thanks Aaron. Interesting read there. Did you end up with a set yet? Sounds like they are not super rare but a bit unusual if Mark has never seen them!


working on it.... but I dont have anything yet
 
Andy mentioned my build may be coming to an end....
So here is the list of remaining s*** to do:

Pull the engine (or just the tranny) to replace the rear main.
Replace the front seals and oil pan seal one more time.
Finish the half doors
Restore the hard top
Restore a set of full doors
Move the roll bar tube that the seat belts attach to back 6 inches to the other overhead hoop so I can sit in the front seat more comfortably
By then I am sure to need to replace the dry rotted tires

I have and extra front and rear drive shaft I am going to re-tube but that has nothing to do with the actual truck.
 
I guess i spoke too soon.:rolleyes:
 
you missed a few, i fixed for ya:flipoff2:
Andy mentioned my build may be coming to an end....
So here is the list of remaining **** to do:

Pull the engine (or just the tranny) to replace the rear main.
Replace the front seals and oil pan seal one more time.
Finish the half doors
Restore the hard top
Restore a set of full doors
Move the roll bar tube that the seat belts attach to back 6 inches to the other overhead hoop so I can sit in the front seat more comfortably
By then I am sure to need to replace the dry rotted tires
Drive 40 out of garage
Find a cliff, use brick and a stick to set gas pedal
Jump out of truck at high speed
Watch your money go over cliff, then tumble down to death
Sobbingly, walk to bank & withdrawl funds
Go buy restored, non oil leaking 40 with no cooling problems
Drive home to happy wife
Park in garage
Go to doghouse
:beer:
 
Well. I got another set of seals from Dan. This is gonna have to do it. Rear main, front main, timing cover gasket, a couple others. I am going to use something else as a sealant than the Permatex I chose. Pretty sure that is the main issue. I am not looking forward to the wrench session. My plan is to take the tranny out and the radiator but leave the engine in place. I do not know when I will get to it. but I have the parts and a plan.
 
I am back at it....

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I worked hard today on the gasket and seal replacement.
What I discovered was that the rear main was seapping but hot badly. The oilpan gasket was leaking at the rear and a bit at the front. The front main was destroyed as I did not properly center it.

The think I do not understand is that there is quite a bit of oil inside the inner grooves of the upper pulley where it bolts to the water pump. The water pump should have no oil leaking from it. If anything it would be water. I can't figue this out at all.

So tomorrow I hope to get the rear main in and the oil pan gasket. This will allow me to everything back together to the rear of the engine.

I have a shop in the basement but that is filled with the frame off project so I am doing all this in the garage upstairs which means frequent fxxxing trips downstairs to get s*** I left behind and no airtools. What a PITA.
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I also learned that early (on the left) and late (on the right) temp sensors are not compatible. I do not know why but the late one will not work with the electrical system pre 9/72.

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Below, on the right, is a very old, very deteriorated sensor. :doh:

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Rear main, oil pan, side gasket, front main, timing cover all done and seem successful.

The PS pump is leaking so much it will not hold fluid now. I apparently did a great job on the rebuild. Seems the reservoir is tweeked so it does not seal well around the pump. Will this never end?????

I am going to take it apart, clean it and dry it and put a bead of silicone around it. I got lucky and when I put the dizzy back in it was not 180 out and it timed easily with that light I bought from Summits earlier this year.

The wife and I are leaving tomorrow on vacation so I will not get to the pup until the new year.

I used this on the gaskets:



If that s*** has to come off, I hope it is not by me.
I also need to adjust my valves. Never done it but recall it was a PITA on a Beetle and never seemed to turn out just right.
 
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adjusting valves is pretty easy. Do it with a warm engine. :cheers:
I have heard about the running engine method. Sounds out there but I think it might be the way to go.
 
I have heard about the running engine method. Sounds out there but I think it might be the way to go.

yeah running is kind of scary. warm but not running is pretty easy, especially if you make a bump starter; wire a momentary button to your starting circuit but disconnect the coil, and you can lightly press the button and the engine will just turn a smidge each time.
 
OK guys. I tore the PS pump down again and put it together using Rite Stuff gasket goo in some strategic places. Ran it and it worked still so that is good. Just waiting to see if it will continue leaking. Fingers crossed. If is does, I am just going to used the damn thing as a core.

I also put some D-Rings in to connect one of those elastic spider web nets to in the back. Next is to adjust the valves. I need to wait for the weather now though. Sounds like it is going to get sloppy tonight.
 
At the expressed request of a certain Mudder, here is a description of The Mule:

1972 FJ40 Built 9/71

Stuff that is good:

Rebuilt 2F motor (over 50K believed on motor)
4 speed transmission
Newly installed Saginaw PS w/ new PS Pump.
Weber carb
Rebuilt powder coated front heater
Custom long travel rear DS
35" BFG MTs
Short jump seats
4" SkyJacker lift
Mini truck front disc brakes w/ custom backing plates and ForeRunner calipers.
Rebuilt parking brake
New front, rear and oil pan seals
Ironpig skid plate
Bikini top
Custom bumper with Warn 8274 winch
hard top with extra parts
recently rebuilt odometer
New windshield and rubber
5 point front harnesses
New front turn signals
Minimal rust
Reinforced rear leaf spring mounts
Fuel lines replaced
Gas tank removed and cleaned/painted


Stuff that is less than good:
Cage is made of schedule 40 pipe - solid but heavy
No horn
No title as GA is a bill of sale state for older vehicles but it is registered and road legal
Doors and hard top need work - they are green and have some rust.
1" crack in left front fender
Crack in dash pad
Transmission and transfer case seeping
Seats are velor

Pics to follow on Saturday-ish
 
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