Build The John Denver FJ40
- Thread starter sadovnik
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sadovnik
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #42
Engine Work
With most modern cars, the process is simple: drop it off, describe the issue, pay a small fortune, and drive away fixed. Naively, I assumed my experience with this Land Cruiser would be similar, but boy was I wrong.
I originally contacted a well-known LC shop nearby, but after rescheduling two appointments while the rig was being painted, they lost patience. By the third attempt to reschedule, they claimed the shop was full and quoted me a "go-away price." Disappointing, as I really wanted to work with them.
I then reached out to another outfit very active here on Mud, but they ghosted me entirely after a couple of emails.
Fortunately, the local LC club pointed me toward a young mechanic who has been fantastic. We’ve fallen into a great rhythm: I handle the research and purchasing (fun) and he handles the heavy lifting (not so fun). Since he’s mobile and works on all makes, he’s been able to tackle my ever-expanding fleet right in my own driveway.
Back to the JD Cruiser...
Since day one, the truck has suffered from backfiring on deceleration and it was running rich. I figured the two were were related, as I had read that a very rich fuel mixture will cause backfires during deceleration.
I had tried to adjust the idle mixture on the carb, and the backfires decreased substantially but it was still running rich. I figured it had the wrong size jets for my altitude. I knew that the carburetor had been rebuilt a few years ago by someone who had never done one before so I did not want to repeat that. I wanted it done right- by someone with ample experience on carbs. Enter @mattressking. Nate set me up with a 1976 carburetor and he put in the proper jet sizes for my altitude (6,000ft) . Thank you Nate for answering all my noob questions!
The plan was straightforward: desmog the engine, install the new carb, and swap in a vacuum advance distributor. However, once we pulled the manifolds, a massive exhaust leak became obvious. While the manifolds were at the machine shop being resurfaced, I spent my time gathering some additional parts like gaskets, an EGR plug, heat riser plate (mine was missing altogether), carb insulator plate (from @mattressking ), bolts and studs ( from @cruisermatt ), wiring harness ( from @Coolerman), etc. etc. etc. I also gave the engine block a much-deserved cosmetic refresh.
All smog equipment removed.
After using Gunk gel engine cleaner then coating it with POR Engine Enamel.
Exhaust manifold after applying some VHT flame proof paint.
And the intake manifold
With most modern cars, the process is simple: drop it off, describe the issue, pay a small fortune, and drive away fixed. Naively, I assumed my experience with this Land Cruiser would be similar, but boy was I wrong.
I originally contacted a well-known LC shop nearby, but after rescheduling two appointments while the rig was being painted, they lost patience. By the third attempt to reschedule, they claimed the shop was full and quoted me a "go-away price." Disappointing, as I really wanted to work with them.
I then reached out to another outfit very active here on Mud, but they ghosted me entirely after a couple of emails.
Fortunately, the local LC club pointed me toward a young mechanic who has been fantastic. We’ve fallen into a great rhythm: I handle the research and purchasing (fun) and he handles the heavy lifting (not so fun). Since he’s mobile and works on all makes, he’s been able to tackle my ever-expanding fleet right in my own driveway.
Back to the JD Cruiser...
Since day one, the truck has suffered from backfiring on deceleration and it was running rich. I figured the two were were related, as I had read that a very rich fuel mixture will cause backfires during deceleration.
I had tried to adjust the idle mixture on the carb, and the backfires decreased substantially but it was still running rich. I figured it had the wrong size jets for my altitude. I knew that the carburetor had been rebuilt a few years ago by someone who had never done one before so I did not want to repeat that. I wanted it done right- by someone with ample experience on carbs. Enter @mattressking. Nate set me up with a 1976 carburetor and he put in the proper jet sizes for my altitude (6,000ft) . Thank you Nate for answering all my noob questions!
The plan was straightforward: desmog the engine, install the new carb, and swap in a vacuum advance distributor. However, once we pulled the manifolds, a massive exhaust leak became obvious. While the manifolds were at the machine shop being resurfaced, I spent my time gathering some additional parts like gaskets, an EGR plug, heat riser plate (mine was missing altogether), carb insulator plate (from @mattressking ), bolts and studs ( from @cruisermatt ), wiring harness ( from @Coolerman), etc. etc. etc. I also gave the engine block a much-deserved cosmetic refresh.
All smog equipment removed.
After using Gunk gel engine cleaner then coating it with POR Engine Enamel.
Exhaust manifold after applying some VHT flame proof paint.
And the intake manifold
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Gorgeous rig! Make sure that bezel has the little spacers so it doesn't dig into the clean paint and start rust...
sadovnik
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #44
Yes. I originally got some aftermarket ones but then I found out that Toyota still makes the "Radiator Grille Distance Piece" so I went ahead and splurged on the OEM ones. I thought the name was funny enough but the description on Toyota's web page is even betterGorgeous rig! Make sure that bezel has the little spacers so it doesn't dig into the clean paint and start rust...
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Genuine Toyota Parts nomenclature - Radiator Grille Spacer Sub-Assembly
Had no idea new OEM fenders still available, who sells them and cost if you don't mind sharing?
sadovnik
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #48
I think Georg ( @orangefj45 ) was selling a pair. Cruiser Corps has them and City Racer has some scratch and dent ones for quite a bit less than CC. You can also get them from Amayama for about $600ish, but that may have changed after the Supreme Court's decision on tariffs.
You might look up @dieselbj42. He used to have an ad in the classified section. I bought a pair a number of years ago. He shipped from Germany.
I have a set of OEM fenders in great shape.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com
sadovnik
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #52
Scope Creep
The original plan was straightforward: desmog the engine and replace the carburetor and distributor. But once I got started, it quickly expanded. Since I was already in there, it seemed logical to swap out the radiator hoses and clamps. Then I noticed how beat up the radiator looked, so replacing it with a new OEM unit—while they’re still available—felt like the right move.
From there, it only made sense to install a new thermostat and gaskets. And if I was doing that, why not replace the thermostat housing and cover too, since those are still available OEM? Naturally, that led to considering a new water pump and fan while everything was accessible.
You can probably see where this is going—it snowballed fast. In the end, I’ll be replacing every component of the cooling system. Definitely not the original plan, but ultimately worthwhile.
Cooling System Parts:
And the obligatory work-in-progress picture, because we all love pictures
The original plan was straightforward: desmog the engine and replace the carburetor and distributor. But once I got started, it quickly expanded. Since I was already in there, it seemed logical to swap out the radiator hoses and clamps. Then I noticed how beat up the radiator looked, so replacing it with a new OEM unit—while they’re still available—felt like the right move.
From there, it only made sense to install a new thermostat and gaskets. And if I was doing that, why not replace the thermostat housing and cover too, since those are still available OEM? Naturally, that led to considering a new water pump and fan while everything was accessible.
You can probably see where this is going—it snowballed fast. In the end, I’ll be replacing every component of the cooling system. Definitely not the original plan, but ultimately worthwhile.
Cooling System Parts:
| 16333-60070 | Upper Housing Water Outlet |
| 16331-60040 | Lower Housing Water Outlet |
| 90430-40058 | Thermostat Gasket Upper |
| 16341-60020 | Thermostat Gasket Lower |
| 90916-03014 | Thermostat |
| 16343-60011 | Gasket Lower Water Outlet to engine |
| 16100-61012 | Water Pump Assembly |
| 16271-60012 | Water Pump Gasket |
| 16400-49356 | Radiator |
| 16577-61040 | Radiator Union Pipe |
| 16261-60011 | Water Pump Bypass Hose |
| 90916-01056 | Radiator Hose |
| 16571-61040 | Radiator Hose |
| FNT017 | Aisin 8-blade Fan |
| Coolant Reservoir from City Racer | |
| Stainless bolts from Overland Metric and Belmetric. |
And the obligatory work-in-progress picture, because we all love pictures
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The only song to be played in your 40 btw.
sadovnik
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #54
While I wait for more parts to finish the engine refresh, I went ahead and installed my newly powder-coated fuel filler neck / evaporator cover. I sourced some hardware from Overland Metric to go with the pewter powder coat. Somewhere along the line, it had been painted mustard like the rest of the car so it felt good to make it right again. Since I had it all apart, I replaced the braided hose with one I picked up from @cruisermatt .
Also had the fuel tank cover re-painted but forgot to take a picture of it before I put the seat back in so the side view will have to do.
And while I was in the general vicinity, I replaced the double grommet that goes from the gas tank through the floor. The original one had completely disintegrated. Hopefully this one from City Racer will last another 50 years.
Also had the fuel tank cover re-painted but forgot to take a picture of it before I put the seat back in so the side view will have to do.
And while I was in the general vicinity, I replaced the double grommet that goes from the gas tank through the floor. The original one had completely disintegrated. Hopefully this one from City Racer will last another 50 years.
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sadovnik
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #55
I got some new door cards and hardware on the JD Cruiser today, and man, what a difference. I sourced the cards from SMS Headliners—found them through Facebook, though I believe they’re on here too ( @a1500ram ?). Honestly, I’m struggling to find enough superlatives to describe these. The craftsmanship is just next-level; I’m truly impressed with how they turned out.
The truck came with ultra chintzy molded plastic panels that were in rough shape and literally falling off the door. I would have bought the OEM door cards if they were still available in black, but gray just didn't make sense given my Cruiser Corps coral seat covers. During a moment of weakness, I gave in and bought some of the Colombian-made door cards thinking I would paint them to match the seats. But sometime before I got around to painting them (occasionally it pays to be slow AF), I saw these beauties on FB and they looked like they might be a good match to the color of my seats. I reached out to the vendor and he confirmed they were a very close match. So I went ahead and ordered them. About 6 weeks later they showed up at my door and I ran to the garage to put them next to my seats. Lo and behold, they are an excellent match!
Here is another picture where you can see the cards next to the seats. I think it looks great.... Excuse the crappy LED "Daylight" lighting in my garage as it really doesn't do it justice. I will take better pictures outdoors once the truck is running again.
And here's a picture of the awesome vapor barrier sourced from @GA Architect
Here's a list of the parts I used during this little project.
The truck came with ultra chintzy molded plastic panels that were in rough shape and literally falling off the door. I would have bought the OEM door cards if they were still available in black, but gray just didn't make sense given my Cruiser Corps coral seat covers. During a moment of weakness, I gave in and bought some of the Colombian-made door cards thinking I would paint them to match the seats. But sometime before I got around to painting them (occasionally it pays to be slow AF), I saw these beauties on FB and they looked like they might be a good match to the color of my seats. I reached out to the vendor and he confirmed they were a very close match. So I went ahead and ordered them. About 6 weeks later they showed up at my door and I ran to the garage to put them next to my seats. Lo and behold, they are an excellent match!
Here is another picture where you can see the cards next to the seats. I think it looks great.... Excuse the crappy LED "Daylight" lighting in my garage as it really doesn't do it justice. I will take better pictures outdoors once the truck is running again.
And here's a picture of the awesome vapor barrier sourced from @GA Architect
Here's a list of the parts I used during this little project.
| Chrome Window Handles | 69260-14010 | 2 |
| Foam Silencer | 69759-30021 | 2 |
| Door Lock Bezel | 69276-20011 | 2 |
| Retainer Caps | 67772-20021 | 22 |
| Retainer Clips | 67771-20022 | 22 |
| Escutcheon | 69265-22010 | 2 |
| Vapor Barrier | @GA Architect | |
| Door Cards | SMS Headliners |
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Indeed a great match! Coral with mustard makes for a fantastic combo too
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Awesome build, enjoying the thread!