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- #121
Or join team Sniper
I almost tried justifying sniper to myself but, for my goals, if the cityracer is all it’s cracked up to be I’ll be more than happy with it. More money for rust repair and paint
Builds “The Dude”: New Owner w/ Basket Case FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter js0k
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I almost tried justifying sniper to myself but, for my goals, if the cityracer is all it’s cracked up to be I’ll be more than happy with it. More money for rust repair and paint
From what understand, you will be glad you did. The 2F can only resperate 4.2 cubic liters of air/mixture a revolution anyhow and has an amazingly flat HP and torque curve like a tractor should. With good timing there is unlikely to be a significant gain. The devil told me temp you but he smiled a bit when you didn't biteI almost tried justifying sniper to myself but, for my goals, if the cityracer is all it’s cracked up to be I’ll be more than happy with it. More money for rust repair and paint
- Thread starter
- #123
From what understand, you will be glad you did. The 2F can only resperate 4.2 cubic liters of air/mixture a revolution anyhow and has an amazingly flat HP and torque curve like a tractor should. With good timing there is unlikely to be a significant gain. The devil told me temp you but he smiled a bit when you didn't bite
Don’t worry, the devil will get plenty of laughs at my expense when I equip my 1969 C10’s tractor in-line 6 with sniper or something similar. Might FItech and turbo it, OR spend the same amount of money on an LS swap. Tough call because I’m an idiot.
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- #124
City racer = ordered. Hope it gets here this week 
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- #125
Fixed my low float bowl issue!
Cityracer carb and Man a Fre EGR block off plate arrived the same afternoon so I installed them on Friday, did a lean drop and have been happy.
Also went ahead and did a hot valve adjustment since my initial setting was done on a cold, non-running engine. Some valves towards the rear of the engine were pretty tight, but should be good now.
There’s still a strange slight misfire feeling at idle, seems like it could be due to the power steering pump, one of the exhaust leaks (nuts at exh manifold are loose), maybe my $6 rockauto plug wire set. I’ll figure it out, it runs and drives great and starts right up every time, the idle thing is just a minor annoyance.
Cityracer carb and Man a Fre EGR block off plate arrived the same afternoon so I installed them on Friday, did a lean drop and have been happy.
Also went ahead and did a hot valve adjustment since my initial setting was done on a cold, non-running engine. Some valves towards the rear of the engine were pretty tight, but should be good now.
There’s still a strange slight misfire feeling at idle, seems like it could be due to the power steering pump, one of the exhaust leaks (nuts at exh manifold are loose), maybe my $6 rockauto plug wire set. I’ll figure it out, it runs and drives great and starts right up every time, the idle thing is just a minor annoyance.
Awesome! Glad she's all coming together nicely.
You could be right about the leads, never underestimate the power of OEM HT leads.
Either way, I'm sure you'll iron it out
When you set the valve clearances on the cold engine, did you set to the hot spec, or did you add a few thou to be on the safe side? Did you record the difference from when you set them cold, to what they measured once hot?
Thanks for your time
You could be right about the leads, never underestimate the power of OEM HT leads.
Either way, I'm sure you'll iron it out
When you set the valve clearances on the cold engine, did you set to the hot spec, or did you add a few thou to be on the safe side? Did you record the difference from when you set them cold, to what they measured once hot?
Thanks for your time
- Thread starter
- #127
Awesome! Glad she's all coming together nicely.
You could be right about the leads, never underestimate the power of OEM HT leads.
Either way, I'm sure you'll iron it out
When you set the valve clearances on the cold engine, did you set to the hot spec, or did you add a few thou to be on the safe side? Did you record the difference from when you set them cold, to what they measured once hot?
Thanks for your time
Thanks, yeah OEM plug wires would be a good call, I’ve heard of people having problems with aftermarket.
Sorry, didn’t really measure the clearances the second time around, just made sure they were right and if they weren’t, adjusted until they were!
I adjusted them to spec initially when cold, and the front half of the engine pretty much stayed there. The back half, however, were mostly tight. Could this be related to me having done the retorque + washer to the rear half’s headbolts? Not sure. Seems to run smoother now that all of the valves are happy, though.
Cool, no probs.
You're probably correct regarding the rear half being tight, iirc, a couple head bolts were a tad long and were bottoming out after you shaved the head, and you had a small coolant leak, hence the need for washers. So that would've pulled the head down a fraction (obviously, coz it stopped the coolant leak) and made the clearances tighter.
Gotta love it when things make sense! Well, in my crazy mind they do....
You're probably correct regarding the rear half being tight, iirc, a couple head bolts were a tad long and were bottoming out after you shaved the head, and you had a small coolant leak, hence the need for washers. So that would've pulled the head down a fraction (obviously, coz it stopped the coolant leak) and made the clearances tighter.
Gotta love it when things make sense! Well, in my crazy mind they do....
- Thread starter
- #129
Met @HemiAlex and drove his 60 this morning, it’s fantastic!
Put over 100 miles on mine today and drove it hard. Really smoothed out when warm after highway driving but was kinda hard to start and idled a little rough.
When leaving Houston it was super smooth. Took it to 3,500 rpm when going through the gears (couldn’t put the pedal down too far or it would bog down, had to feather it. Need to jet the cityracer?) drove home at 2,800-3k, and once back in town, after taking a turn too hard and splashing gas (smelled strong) I decided to go the rest of the way though a neighborhood. Temp gauge then went a little higher than usual.
When I pulled into the driveway, I checked and sure enough, there were bubbles in the overflow tank and the level was a little high!
I still have one more trick up my sleeve before pulling the head, but at this point a head gasket swap would be a one weekend thing. Maybe actually removing the head bolts before retorquing them would fix it...
Had lots of fun today, and I’m very thankful for Alex’s 60 mentorship, the opportunity to drive his truck, and for making it home!
And it turns out my carb cooling fan works! Now I just need to find the blue wire.
Put over 100 miles on mine today and drove it hard. Really smoothed out when warm after highway driving but was kinda hard to start and idled a little rough.
When leaving Houston it was super smooth. Took it to 3,500 rpm when going through the gears (couldn’t put the pedal down too far or it would bog down, had to feather it. Need to jet the cityracer?) drove home at 2,800-3k, and once back in town, after taking a turn too hard and splashing gas (smelled strong) I decided to go the rest of the way though a neighborhood. Temp gauge then went a little higher than usual.
When I pulled into the driveway, I checked and sure enough, there were bubbles in the overflow tank and the level was a little high!
I still have one more trick up my sleeve before pulling the head, but at this point a head gasket swap would be a one weekend thing. Maybe actually removing the head bolts before retorquing them would fix it...
Had lots of fun today, and I’m very thankful for Alex’s 60 mentorship, the opportunity to drive his truck, and for making it home!
And it turns out my carb cooling fan works! Now I just need to find the blue wire.
- Thread starter
- #130
Poured some time into the dude this weekend. Swapped the head gasket and installed the stainless intake/exhaust mani plate and introduced a host of new problems info the mix! Have ironed a couple out but the remainder are baffling and I’d like some input!
At initial startup after install, it idled horribly! Thought the intake gasket was leaking (reused OEM I installed a couple hundred miles ago). Unplugged the ICS that came on my cityracer and nothing changed! It clicked but wasn’t doing anything. Swapped a cruiser corps unit I had and the idle smoothed out but it was clearly very out of tune and had a knock!
Rechecked the valve adjustment and cyl 6 was way loose, so I got those in spec and the knock disappeared when choke is out but there’s a strange air noise when choke is open.
With a carb tune I got it better but something still isn’t right and now there’s a Tick coming from rear pushrod cover.
I put a timing light on it and the BB is nowhere to be found! Took the dist cap off and the MSD springs are still on, have read about them falling off before.
Dizzy was in the middle of its adjustment, where I had left it (and where the BB was when I initially timed). Can replacing the HG and not touching the distributor affect timing?!? The BB doesn’t appear anywhere in the distributors adjustment range now? Probably just gonna chill on this and mess with a 4runner the rest of the weekend.
The dude drove pretty dang well on that Houston trip a couple weeks ago, but I hadn’t really driven it again after it started pressurizing! Funny how the HG swap can mess with a bunch unrelated, untouched variables. Did I do something severely wrong?
Will post a vid of the problem noises soon. And I Timelapse’d the whole HG swap, might distill that down into one vid to post and see if I did anything was done wrong.
Let me know what you think!
At initial startup after install, it idled horribly! Thought the intake gasket was leaking (reused OEM I installed a couple hundred miles ago). Unplugged the ICS that came on my cityracer and nothing changed! It clicked but wasn’t doing anything. Swapped a cruiser corps unit I had and the idle smoothed out but it was clearly very out of tune and had a knock!
Rechecked the valve adjustment and cyl 6 was way loose, so I got those in spec and the knock disappeared when choke is out but there’s a strange air noise when choke is open.
With a carb tune I got it better but something still isn’t right and now there’s a Tick coming from rear pushrod cover.
I put a timing light on it and the BB is nowhere to be found! Took the dist cap off and the MSD springs are still on, have read about them falling off before.
Dizzy was in the middle of its adjustment, where I had left it (and where the BB was when I initially timed). Can replacing the HG and not touching the distributor affect timing?!? The BB doesn’t appear anywhere in the distributors adjustment range now? Probably just gonna chill on this and mess with a 4runner the rest of the weekend.
The dude drove pretty dang well on that Houston trip a couple weeks ago, but I hadn’t really driven it again after it started pressurizing! Funny how the HG swap can mess with a bunch unrelated, untouched variables. Did I do something severely wrong?
Will post a vid of the problem noises soon. And I Timelapse’d the whole HG swap, might distill that down into one vid to post and see if I did anything was done wrong.
Let me know what you think!
- Thread starter
- #131
Lol the timing problem was easy, vac advance wasn’t disconnected and plugged...
Now I’m just looking at the tick (needs another valve adjustment? And retorque), carb noise, leaking rad cap.
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- #132
The dude has some competition!! Touch of Grey has been getting the attention lately (and got a thread of its own, here), since after the head gasket replacement the dude has been a faithful daily. Not much to report besides a “7 turn out” carb adjustment as suggested by @HemiAlex made it run a lot better.
I vacuumed and charged the AC, but it acts wacky because all of my AC amplifier wires are cut and the plug is missing. Tried to cure a miss by unplugging tach but that didn’t really work. No real updates, but there’s about to be a big one! Or should I say a big OME...
I vacuumed and charged the AC, but it acts wacky because all of my AC amplifier wires are cut and the plug is missing. Tried to cure a miss by unplugging tach but that didn’t really work. No real updates, but there’s about to be a big one! Or should I say a big OME...
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- #133
It’s happening!
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- #134
Does this look like an OK way to do rear leafs, @klinetime574 ? Just asking you cuz you had some comments on an old rear leaf thread. Omitted upper rubber but kept bushing, kept lower rubber and bushing. Feels nice and tight.
I left all of that out of mine.
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- #137
OME = installed. Bilsteins should come this week, then it’ll be back to daily duty! Might drive it to work tomorrow anyways for giggles.
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- #138
I was so excited about this thing that I drove it to work today without shocks. Wasn’t too bad! Haven’t put the OME stabilizer (thanks again @HemiAlex!!) on yet but it follows imperfections in the road quite a bit. Might need castor shims due to the shackles.
I have 200lbs of sand in the back to help break in the springs, I’m super happy with how it looks! And I was fearing power loss from the 33s, but it somehow feels peppier. Has enough torque to not detect the weight difference, but the same RPM is a higher speed now. Perfect.
Gonna retorque everything, install stabilizer, and anxiously await the arrival of the bilsteins. Should probably check out my rear shock mount tube thing in the mean time, don’t want that sucker to fail with the new ‘steins hanging off of it.
I have 200lbs of sand in the back to help break in the springs, I’m super happy with how it looks! And I was fearing power loss from the 33s, but it somehow feels peppier. Has enough torque to not detect the weight difference, but the same RPM is a higher speed now. Perfect.
Gonna retorque everything, install stabilizer, and anxiously await the arrival of the bilsteins. Should probably check out my rear shock mount tube thing in the mean time, don’t want that sucker to fail with the new ‘steins hanging off of it.
DickM
SILVER Star
With my OME lift, I ran 2 degree shims for a couple of years with good results. Recently, I moved to 4 degree which slightly improved the tracking, and lessened the tendency to follow ruts, etc. in the road.
That is what I’m running as well. It brought my alignment numbers back to stock.
