The cerdito will live resto-ish thread (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 27, 2018
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Rigby, ID
I've been tearing stuff down, pulled a bunch of body parts off to be replaced/fixed with a shipment from bobm. Half of it is on its way now.

2 valves were stuck from mouse piss. there was mouse dung in the cylinders. a look down the carb...mouse evidence down in there as well. motor turns over and there doesn't appear to be any scoring in the cylinders. valves are ground, cleaned, lapped. head is cleaned. ready to put back together.

i'll have to rebuild the carb.

gonna make an order to kurt at cruiseroutfitters tomorrow. Im stockpiling parts and spending the family christmas budget to get there, but it's fun.

i reckon to get to this point has been +/- 40 beers and 2 bottles of gin.

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kind of struggling to get that tail gate off. the phillips screws...like every other bolt....are stuck and rusted; i can't get any good torque on them to get them loose. i'll get it, but that tailgate is a piece of s*** after the PO tried scabbing it.
 
kind of struggling to get that tail gate off. the phillips screws
The impact driver like others had mentioned work well and I have about a 40% success rate using one on the 3 or 4 sets of tailgate hinges I’ve removed, be careful not to hit too hard or you’ll risk bending the sheet metal the hinge mounts to and creating a bigger job than needs be. (Don’t ask how I know this)

Beast option is to try the impact, heat and or penetrating oil but after about an hour just go straight to drilling out the screws. Faster, better and less likely to create more work for you in the long run.
 
i tried with the impact screwdriver for a bit, ended up drilling them out. Got the tailgate off...IDK if its salvageable.

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also, dropped the tank, from the filler neck, doesn't look rusty inside. the old gas smelled like kerosene and horse piss and was nitro yellow. what is this on top of the tank and how should i go about getting it off since the screws are corroded? grind them? drill them?

what is the plastic deal behind the panel next to the filler neck that those 4 hoses go to? do I need to keep it if the 2f is desmogged?

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tore the carb apart christmas day, ruined the main jet on the secondary side, so no clue what size it is and/or if I need different jetting or anything before I put it back together. emailed @FJ40Jim for some info, but it's the holidays, waiting to touch base. if any of you know, clue me in.

primary side, slow jet? (the long one) is 55 and the main is 20.
secondary side slow jet is 70 and the main?? because it crumbled.

2f is desmogged in case ya missed it above.

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how should i go about getting it off since the screws are corroded?
Small vice grips and work them back and forth to see if you can get them to loosen before the break, plan to drill and re-tap most but it's worth a try.
 
I believe that's the float. The plastic tank with the four hoses should be kept and run the out going line up to your charcoal can, which you need for catching the fumes.
 
Fuel sender is the round deal on top of tank, I’ll find a pic...
 
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I was lucky getting the screws out, but my tank had to go for re-new.
 
i got lucky and got all 5 screws out with vice grips. Gonna call a radiator shop for a clean and seal. It's not too corroded or rusty inside.
 

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