Builds "The '71" - Finally Its Turn

4Cruisers

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Now that my '86 FJ60 build is pretty much done, it's time to start on my '71 FJ40. Last week I brought it back to New Mexico after 17 years, it's been waiting its turn out in Nevada since 2001.

Here are some vital statistics to get started:

Purchased: June 5, 1997

Build Date: December 1970

Engine: 2F (from FJ40/FJ55), 2F 067849 (build date between November 1975 and February 1976); OEM carburetor and non-US vacuum advance points distributor with octane selector

Bellhousing: 4-speed bellhousing

Driveshafts: FJ40 4-speed front and rear driveshafts

Transmission: H42 4-speed (from ’78 FJ55) - Sold recently

Transfer case: 4-speed transfer case (from ’78 FJ55) - Sold recently

Suspension: Stock

Wheels: 15” Toyota wheels (from FJ60/FJ62)

Tires: B.F. Goodrich 30X9.50R15 All Terrain

Rear axle: Original with coarse spline 4:11 differential and drum brakes; 4-speed pinion flanges to match driveshaft bolt pattern

Front axle: Modified with Toyota mini-truck Birfields, knuckles, and locking hubs; FJ60 vented rotors; and '91 4-Runner IFS calipers; 4-speed pinion flanges to match driveshaft bolt pattern

Steering: ’83 Toyota mini-truck power steering gearbox, '84 4WD Toyota Tercel pump, and '84 Toyota Cressida pump adjusting bracket; steering column (from '75 FJ40)

Rollbar: Aftermarket rollbar

My preliminary plans for further upgrades:

Engine: 2F with ~66,000 original miles (from my '76 FJ40), already upgraded with FJ60 electronic ignition and oil cooler; OEM carburetor with vacuum advance port

Transmission: H41 4-speed with ~45,000 miles (from '84 HJ47)

Transfer case: Drum parking brake split transfer case (from '85 BJ45)

Suspension: OME with 2" lift

Wheels: 70-Series Land Cruiser 16" wheels

Tires: B.F. Goodrich LT235/85R16 All Terrain

Body: Early front bib with running lights; '77 FJ40 kick-out vent window hardtop sides; extensive rust repair; refurbished hardtop; new Pollux Orange paint job

Seats: Refurbished FJ40 bucket seats with SOR foam (from my '76 FJ40); refurbished short rear jump seats (from my '76 FJ40)

Safety: 3-point shoulder harness seat belts; later OEM rollbar to allow for access to kick-out vent window latches

Winch: Warn 8274 (from my '76 FJ40)

Here's an old photo of the '71 FJ40 (on the right) and the '76 FJ40 side-by-side after one of the infrequent Las Vegas snowfalls:



I also considered installing a 2FE or 3FE but decided to transplant the low-mileage 2F from my '76 FJ40. For the type of driving I'll be doing in the '71 the electronic ignition 2F/H41/split transfer case combination will be more than adequate.

More to come.
 

4Cruisers

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A little history behind the name - it was easy when we only had the '84 FJ60 we bought new in Las Vegas, it was "The Land Cruiser". Then I picked up the used '71 FJ40 here in town and it became "The Bobtail". Then along came the used '82 FJ60 we bought at American Toyota in Albuquerque. Then it was "The '84", "The Bobtail", and "The '82". After I picked up the used '76 FJ40 here in town it was "The '84", "The '71", "The '82", and the '76". So by now you can probably guess the names of the '83 FJ60 parts vehicle, the '86 FJ60, the '85 FJ60 parts vehicle, and the '89 FJ62.
 

Living in the Past

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A little history behind the name - it was easy when we only had the '84 FJ60 we bought new in Las Vegas, it was "The Land Cruiser". Then I picked up the used '71 FJ40 here in town and it became "The Bobtail". Then along came the used '82 FJ60 we bought at American Toyota in Albuquerque. Then it was "The '84", "The Bobtail", and "The '82". After I picked up the used '76 FJ40 here in town it was "The '84", "The '71", "The '82", and the '76". So by now you can probably guess the names of the '83 FJ60 parts vehicle, the '86 FJ60, the '85 FJ60 parts vehicle, and the '89 FJ62.


This worked for a long time for me. Back in 2002 bought a 1960 FJ25 Couple months later bought a second 1960 FJ25. Then it was the white 25 and Grey FJ25. That was fine until bought two more 1960 FJ25s over the next two years. Just gave up at that point. Only vehicle I have ever given a name not a year or color. That was until a few years ago when I bought a 3rd gen 4Runner off Craigslist. Seller called it periwinkle. Now call it Peri.


Back to your 71, are you planning on cutting the torque tube behind the transfer case? Shoehorned a four spees in my 68 but with a one piece case. But guessing with a split transfer case with hand brake will be even tighter.
 
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4Cruisers

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OK, let's get started. Decided 100% to use the low mileage 2F from my '76 FJ40 @cruiserjunktion . Will do an additional upgrade to 3FE exhaust manifolds, based on information posted by others here on MUD @Godwin @LAMBCRUSHER.

Now on to the body upgrade issues, including the hardtop sides, roll bar, front seats, rear jump seats, and front bib. The '71 has stock hardtop sides, a Smittybilt roll bar, stock two-section bench seat, one long jump seat (the other was missing when I bought the vehicle), and the stock front bib.

I've got two sets of post-'76 hardtop sides with kick-out vent windows. One matched set I believe is from a '77 FJ40 - both sides have provisions top and bottom for the shoulder harness seat belts. The other is a mis-matched set - the passenger side has both seat belt provisions but the other side does not, it only has the top provision. I believe the drivers side is from a '78 (or later?) FJ40, when the lower seat belt bracket was added to the bottom of the roll bar, like the grey roll bar in this photo posted by @Living in the Past:



I plan on using the '77 sides so I can add the shoulder harness seat belts. I believe the '77 sides will bolt up to the '71 tub based on some quick measurements I made earlier this evening. The trouble is that the stock roll bar in my '76 FJ40 donor vehicle has the larger radius at the rear of the roll bar that will interfere with the vent window latch mechanism. I'd need a '77 roll bar with the smaller radius, like the black roll bar in the photo above. A couple of other options - I could have a local welding shop modify my '76 roll bar with smaller radius bends or use the Smittybilt roll bar. Here's a photo of another member's FJ40 with the Smittybilt roll bar:



If I use the Smittybilt roll bar I'd have to install the short rear bench seats from my '76 FJ40 closer in towards the center of the vehicle, which would require a couple of additional modifications. So it looks like I'll be searching for a '77 roll bar or a good local welding shop, that way I could mount the '76 jump seats in their normal location.

As for the seats, I plan on installing the bucket seats from my '76 FJ40 (after having them reupholstered, using SOR foam) on the mounting brackets I got in trade from Brandon at Classic Cruisers. The brackets have already been blasted and powder coated @89BIGBLUE. I'll have to do a slight modification on the left side support for the drivers seat to clear the under-seat toolbox. I'll have the rear jump seats reupholstered at the same time.

A number of years ago I picked up a couple of early front bibs at a swap meet in Colorado Springs. Both are in very good shape. I'll install the best one in place of the stock bib.

More to come. And as always, any input/tips/etc. would be much appreciated.
 

4Cruisers

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Back to your 71, are you planning on cutting the torque tube behind the transfer case? Shoehorned a four spees in my 68 but with a one piece case. But guessing with a split transfer case with hand brake will be even tighter.
I'll have to check the length again, but the later H41/drum parking brake split case combination is actually about 1/4" shorter than the earlier H41/one-piece transfer case, which surprised me. I got the '78 FJ55 H42/one-piece case installed in the '71 without too much trouble without having to modify the torque tube.

EDIT:

Just measured the later H41 and the split transfer case - the combination, from the bellhousing/transmission mating surface to the parking brake drum/rear driveshaft mating surface is 21-7/16". I'll have to go out in front to remeasure the earlier H41/3-speed transfer case combination that's in my '76 FJ40. I'll have to make it quick, it's down to 34*.

EDIT:

The early H41/3-speed transfer case combination in my '76 FJ40 measures 21-11/16" from mating surface to mating surface, so the new combination will be 1/4" shorter, so a slightly easier fit.
 
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4Cruisers

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On to the engine improvements. I'll be using the low mileage 2F from my '76 FJ40, but will improve the exhaust flow somewhat by using a set of 3FE exhaust manifolds. I just picked up a set from @cruiserjunktion and will clean and prep them exactly the same as those on my '86 FJ60 project:

Manifold Makeover - EZ-Slide Coating Approach
 

4Cruisers

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The 3FE exhaust fits on the early head, but not with the early intake?
We'll find out shortly, I can test fit the exhaust manifolds on the '76 when the package arrives from Florida. I think I have a small exhaust leak to remedy anyway. Or I could try it out on the '71, it has a '76 2F also. I'll be pulling it from the '71 shortly, so could play around with things while it's on the engine stand.
 
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Dizzy

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I found an old post suggesting that the flange on the 3FE exhaust manifold is 15mm, 5mm more than what is on my 75..

Not that I don't have a 2F exhaust manifold, but it would be good to get an exhaust manifold from cooking the aluminum intake.
 

4Cruisers

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I found an old post suggesting that the flange on the 3FE exhaust manifold is 15mm, 5mm more than what is on my 75..

Not that I don't have a 2F exhaust manifold, but it would be good to get an exhaust manifold from cooking the aluminum intake.
I might go the route of having the 3FE manifold mating surfaces machined along with the 2F intake manifold to 1) make sure things are level and 2) to get the thicknesses the same. The other advantage of the 3FE manifolds is that they're two separate sections, which makes the gasket sealing easier, instead of dealing with one long manifold surface.
 

4Cruisers

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I'd machine special stepped washers if I was given the opportunity to do the actual machining.
I've read about using stepped washers and it seems like a good option. I'd have to find someone to do the machining in my part of northern New Mexico, preferably in the Santa Fe area.
 
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2fe would be nice but u could turn the 2f into a 2fe for the most part if u just shave a bunch off of the head, u just wouldn't have EFI. What about adding a delta reground camshaft? I like the idea of using 3fe manifolds.
 

4Cruisers

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More on axles and driveshafts. In general, I plan on using the parts from the '76, as it only has ~66,000 original miles. That would include the rear axle and both driveshafts. Almost 20 years ago I had done a front disc brake conversion on the '71 using mini-truck components (Birfields/knuckles/hubs/knuckle arms - I fabricated my own tie rod shims), FJ60 vented rotors, and IFS calipers. That conversion has only seen about 1,000 miles, so it should be good to go after checking things out, draining and refilling the gear oil, and repacking the wheel bearings. I plan on replacing the pinion seal and swapping in the pinion flange from the '76. The '71 still has the earlier driveshaft bolt pattern - when I installed the '78 FJ55 4-speed and transfer case I swapped the early yoke into the later 4-speed driveshaft. That'll allow me to attach the '76 front driveshaft. EDIT: I still need to measure the '76 front driveshaft to see if I can use it as is with the split transfer case. I know the rear driveshaft needed with the split case is only ~1/4" longer than the current set-up, so I can use it as is. The split transfer case front flange will match the FJ40 driveshaft bolt pattern, same with the parking brake drum.

Here's a photo of the mix-'n-match driveshaft bolts I pulled off the '71 before I flat towed it back from Nevada last week:

Driveshaft-Bolts.jpg


Two different diameters and three different styles, the bolts on the right are 10mm and came off the same yoke/pinion flange (at the front axle). That'll definitely be improved upon - I plan on using the latest FJ60/62 driveshaft bolts.
 
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4Cruisers

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2fe would be nice but u could turn the 2f into a 2fe for the most part if u just shave a bunch off of the head, u just wouldn't have EFI. What about adding a delta reground camshaft? I like the idea of using 3fe manifolds.
I plan on leaving the long block as is, it only has ~66,000 miles and it purrs like a kitten. Enough power as is to cruise at 65 mph and tackle some of the tougher trails like Black Bear Pass. The 3FE manifolds are an easy external upgrade.
 

Godwin

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I might go the route of having the 3FE manifold mating surfaces machined along with the 2F intake manifold to 1) make sure things are level and 2) to get the thicknesses the same. The other advantage of the 3FE manifolds is that they're two separate sections, which makes the gasket sealing easier, instead of dealing with one long manifold surface.
I went with washers but I think milling is the better approach. I used OEM manifold washers for appropriate diameter and consistency of thickness. Cut them in half and JB Welded the 1/2 washers to the Al intake manifold. The JB seemed to hold well but I knocked a few off while mounting, even so I don't have any leaks. Another consideration is that in using the 3FE exhaust that the 14 mm end bolts may be too short. If the 3FE manifold is milled to match the intake thickness this will not be an issue.
 
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