Supercharger Removal

[COS80]

What began as a simple cooling hose replacement has spiraled into a fairly major, unplanned teardown. The culprit is the bypass above the thermostat, which I foolishly, partially removed, only to find that it is impossible to remove with the supercharger in place. Since I can't trust just bolting it back in place, the s/c R&R is underway, but this, too, is proving to be a huge hassle. I'm seeking advice from anyone who has actually removed and reinstalled one of these.

From the installation manual, I deduced that removal will entail:

1. Remove intake tubes from the throttle body and intake, and the little crossover hose between the s/c and plenum
2. Remove the belt
3. Remove the four nuts and pull the s/c body off the plenum
4. Remove the plenum from the head with three bolts and a nut
5. Reinstall with Loctite 518 or "FIPG" (no spec given - what FIPG is suitable?)

I'm stuck at #3. I tried knocking it loose with a rubber mallet to the body, and a brass bar to the only accessible stud, with no hint of separation. I tried to insert a plastic scraper between the surfaces, but that was as futile as expected.

I emailed Magnuson for help but haven't heard back yet. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Fj80oregon]

@raisinhell2

 

[Irish Reiver]

You need to heat the area where the locktite current is. I was stumped at this point when i removed mine to fix a similar issue in the same area.

 

[COS80]

You need to heat the area where the locktite current is. I was stumped at this point when i removed mine to fix a similar issue in the same area.

Then what?

 

[COS80]

Heat is the key, but I’d keep it localized to the flange and give the joint time to work rather than hammering on the stud. Once the Loctite softens, work around the perimeter with light taps on a plastic/wood wedge or two opposing, protected pry points so the housing lifts evenly. Avoid driving a screwdriver into the machined sealing faces. For reassembly I’d clean both faces completely and use the sealant specified by Magnuson (518 if that is what your manual calls for) rather than a generic RTV/FIPG substitute; a quick call to their tech line can confirm the exact product and cure time for your kit. Take photos of the bypass area while it’s open—access is much easier now.

Just a few notes:

1. There are no pry points.
2. Magnuson specifies the 518 and "FIPG" with no details.
3. I am waiting on a reply from their support team.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Then what?

I used a map gas torch and focused it on the upper a d forward seams. It didn't take long before the weight of the supercharger open the joint

 

[COS80]

Really, I wouldn't have guessed that. I think I'll try a heat gun first, though.

Did you burn the paint off?

 

[george_tlc]

Kazuma Supercharger Install

is my install writeup from decades ago. It may provide a few more views of what is going on.

cheers,
george.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Really, I wouldn't have guessed that. I think I'll try a heat gun first, though.

Did you burn the paint off?

Pretty sure it didn't but don't quote me on that.

 

[lumbee1]

@COS80 I literally just did this not too long ago and for the exact same reason. The bypass pipe will not come out with the supercharger in place. Supercharger has to come off.

There are four studs with nuts that hold the supercharger to the supercharger manifold and they are difficult to remove. The supercharger should have been installed with Loctite 515 flange sealant, not RTV. Flange sealant stays liquid and doesn't harden/cure. I wiggled mine supercharger a bit and it popped off. You don't have to fully remove it, only push it to the side. I would recommend cleaning the surface and applying new flange sealant on reinstall.

Once you have the supercharger out of the way, you have to remove the supercharger manifold. I can't remember how many bolts are holding the manifold in place but there is at least one on the inside that will be covered in flange sealant as well. With the bolts out I fully removed the manifold to get to the bypass pipe. Removing the supercharger manifold was much easier than removing the supercharger.

PIc of the supercharger with flange sealant. The nuts on the bottom of the supercharger will test your patience.

 

[COS80]

You're not lying about the s/c to plenum nuts. I had to buy ratcheting, flex head wrenches to get the one by that plastic cup/pod thing shown in your pic. Now that they're off, though, there's no popping off with a wiggle... I pulled so hard, the whole truck was leaning over, and that was with some heat!

 

[COS80]

I should add that mine is sealed with a black compound, so evidently not Loctite 518.

 

[Saito]

Someone needs to make a gasket for between the compressor and the discharge housing that bolts to the head. I’d buy a couple. Thinking about making one myself the next time it comes apart. Had to do this coolant pipe w/ new O-rings a few years ago and ran into the same issue. Good luck.

 

[COS80]

Hear hear! I loathe gasket maker!

Do you recall how you got yours to separate?

 

[lumbee1]

Flange sealant, which is what the directions call for, is nothing like RTV. It's bright red slight opaque but stays liquidity. If you can't separate the supercharger from the supercharger manifold then someone used RTV or something similar.

 

[COS80]

Magnuson doesn't have a service manual or removal instructions (!). They were able to tell me the paint color, which I'm certain is going to be destroyed, if I continue down the "apply heat" route: Interpon 200 Stardust silver PW101QF, which is - you guessed it - powdercoat. I did find a company - CrossLink Paints - who color matches spray paint to AzkoNobel colors. I'll try that if the powdercoat gets wrecked.

Hoping the original installer will reply and know what this black sealant is between the halves; otherwise, there's no way to tell.

 

[lumbee1]

Magnuson doesn't have a service manual or removal instructions (!). They were able to tell me the paint color, which I'm certain is going to be destroyed, if I continue down the "apply heat" route: Interpon 200 Stardust silver PW101QF, which is - you guessed it - powdercoat. I did find a company - CrossLink Paints - who color matches spray paint to AzkoNobel colors. I'll try that if the powdercoat gets wrecked.

Hoping the original installer will reply and know what this black sealant is between the halves; otherwise, there's no way to tell.

Have you tried using a razor blade between the supercharger and manifold?

 

[COS80]

Have you tried using a razor blade between the supercharger and manifold?

I have. The gap is so tight, I can barely tap a blade in with a hammer.

My next step is going to be more heat, to a higher temp, then the razor.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Try this: install a threaded rod or long bolt with a jacking nut into the open casting slot on rear and top of supercharger. As you turn the nut it will push against the two halves and force them to split. Add some material on the discharge plenum where the stud/bolt will make contact. Else, it will eat away at the surface.

Also, Jon Bond sells a gasket kit so you don’t have to use sealant. An alternative option.
Link to Jon Bond gasket kit

 

[COS80]

Also, Jon Bond sells a gasket kit so you don’t have to use sealant. An alternative option.
Link to Jon Bond gasket kit

Ordered!

Try this: install a threaded rod or long bolt with a jacking nut into the open casting slot on rear and top of supercharger. As you turn the nut it will push against the two halves and force them to split. Add some material on the discharge plenum where the stud/bolt will make contact. Else, it will eat away at the surface.

I'm guessing that slot's a Gen4 feature... mine's a Gen3, and it doesn't have it.