Supercharger Removal

[COS80]

What began as a simple cooling hose replacement has spiraled into a fairly major, unplanned teardown. The culprit is the bypass above the thermostat, which I foolishly, partially removed, only to find that it is impossible to remove with the supercharger in place. Since I can't trust just bolting it back in place, the s/c R&R is underway, but this, too, is proving to be a huge hassle. I'm seeking advice from anyone who has actually removed and reinstalled one of these.

From the installation manual, I deduced that removal will entail:

1. Remove intake tubes from the throttle body and intake, and the little crossover hose between the s/c and plenum
2. Remove the belt
3. Remove the four nuts and pull the s/c body off the plenum
4. Remove the plenum from the head with three bolts and a nut
5. Reinstall with Loctite 518 or "FIPG" (no spec given - what FIPG is suitable?)

I'm stuck at #3. I tried knocking it loose with a rubber mallet to the body, and a brass bar to the only accessible stud, with no hint of separation. I tried to insert a plastic scraper between the surfaces, but that was as futile as expected.

I emailed Magnuson for help but haven't heard back yet. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Fj80oregon]

@raisinhell2

 

[Irish Reiver]

You need to heat the area where the locktite current is. I was stumped at this point when i removed mine to fix a similar issue in the same area.

 

[COS80]

You need to heat the area where the locktite current is. I was stumped at this point when i removed mine to fix a similar issue in the same area.

Then what?

 

[lanierchris]

Heat is the key, but I’d keep it localized to the flange and give the joint time to work rather than hammering on the stud. Once the Loctite softens, work around the perimeter with light taps on a plastic/wood wedge or two opposing, protected pry points so the housing lifts evenly. Avoid driving a screwdriver into the machined sealing faces. For reassembly I’d clean both faces completely and use the sealant specified by Magnuson (518 if that is what your manual calls for) rather than a generic RTV/FIPG substitute; a quick call to their tech line can confirm the exact product and cure time for your kit. Take photos of the bypass area while it’s open—access is much easier now.

 

[COS80]

Heat is the key, but I’d keep it localized to the flange and give the joint time to work rather than hammering on the stud. Once the Loctite softens, work around the perimeter with light taps on a plastic/wood wedge or two opposing, protected pry points so the housing lifts evenly. Avoid driving a screwdriver into the machined sealing faces. For reassembly I’d clean both faces completely and use the sealant specified by Magnuson (518 if that is what your manual calls for) rather than a generic RTV/FIPG substitute; a quick call to their tech line can confirm the exact product and cure time for your kit. Take photos of the bypass area while it’s open—access is much easier now.

Just a few notes:

1. There are no pry points.
2. Magnuson specifies the 518 and "FIPG" with no details.
3. I am waiting on a reply from their support team.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Then what?

I used a map gas torch and focused it on the upper a d forward seams. It didn't take long before the weight of the supercharger open the joint

 

[COS80]

Really, I wouldn't have guessed that. I think I'll try a heat gun first, though.

Did you burn the paint off?

 

[george_tlc]

Kazuma Supercharger Install

is my install writeup from decades ago. It may provide a few more views of what is going on.

cheers,
george.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Really, I wouldn't have guessed that. I think I'll try a heat gun first, though.

Did you burn the paint off?

Pretty sure it didn't but don't quote me on that.