Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
You should be putting some decent miles on it between PTY and CR .. don't ya find them harsh rear suspension when empty .?
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- Thread starter
- #22
I really only travel between Boquete, Panama and Pavones, CT mostly. So I have been able to keep the miles down.
And yes, when it's empty it can be a bit harsh with the 400kgs rear leafs, but when I have all the gear(camp, surf, tools) loaded it rides so nice.
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- #23
Got the Hellas wired in, the Ralley 4000's are wired so the small "parking" bulbs come on when the parking lights are on, and the actual driving beam bulbs come on via the headlight switch when turned to hi beams. The little 450 Commets are wired independently via a dash mounted switch. Also installed a set of Ciebi lenses with a pair of Orsam Nightbreaker bulbs in the stock headlight position. What a difference it makes in nighttime driving, especially with a tinted windshield.
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- #24
The original skins in the rear of the Troopy were pretty beat, so I cut aluminum sheet for new skins. I used what was left of the old skins as a template and cut with a jigsaw equipped with a wood blade (better for aluminum). Installed rivnuts in the holes where the plastic clips would fit and attached with stainless button head allen bolts.
Looking good!
A few questions. For the undercoating- how did you decide where to spray and where not to? My 70 still has low miles and probably little rust underneath so I'm wondering if I should do an undercoat or just not worry.
it looks like the tires are wider than the wheel wells? Are you planning on any fenders around the wheel wells to help keep mud off the side of the vehicle or am I overthinking it?
A few questions. For the undercoating- how did you decide where to spray and where not to? My 70 still has low miles and probably little rust underneath so I'm wondering if I should do an undercoat or just not worry.
it looks like the tires are wider than the wheel wells? Are you planning on any fenders around the wheel wells to help keep mud off the side of the vehicle or am I overthinking it?
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- #26
I just did the wheel wells, mainly cause I didn't like seeing the original white paint under there. So instead of just painting it black under there I opted for a product that not only was black but also offered protection.
Yes the tires stick out a bit, and I had originally wanted flares more for the look than the stopping of mud on the side. But all that is offered for my year are fiberglass ones, Kut Snake offers plastic "pocket" style ones but are not offered for my front fender style. At around $500 a set, I'm just not sold on fiberglass ones. Im just not sure fiberglass would hold up to an accidental bump with a tree or cow?
Any imput or opinions are welcomed on the fender flare pros and cons if any fellow Mudders would like to chime in.
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- #28
Being that there are not many options for aftermarket wheels in the 5X150 bolt pattern , I opted for the ProComp 69 Series 16X8. Had them powder coated satin black and wrapped in 315/75R16 Nitto Trail Grapplers. The ride is definitely smoother and quieter compared to the old tires. Also my first gear was just a little longer compared to when I was running 285's as well as the rpms coming down when in 5th gear. I was prepared to regear if needed, but I am happy with the end result.
Those are truly handsome rims; a fantastic look.
Agreed, those wheels are awesome. Do you have your spare on the door?
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- #31
No the spare lives is in the bed. I plan on building a sub floor and the spare will live under there.
I don't like the idea of the added stress on the hinges, sheet metal, and the extra swing weight added with the spare. Plus parking can be tight in Panama so any saved overall length is a plus for me.
I had the 285 spare under the bed in the traditional spot and it was fine, but the 315 is just too big and doesn't snug up properly.
yeah I hear ya. My stock wheel was good under there but my new 255/85 rests on the outer sloped parts so even when its wound up tight it swings back and forth. Didn't feel comfortable with that so now im going to get a door carrier and reinforce the hell out of the inside of the door. Plus the roads are pretty smooth around me and that seems to be the main killer of rear door hinges with carriers on them, washboard roads and similar crappy driving surfaces.
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- #33
You are 100% right, the everyday road conditions are key in your decision. Where I live most of the year,
the nearest paved road is over an hour away. Washboards and pot holes are everyday life for my Troopy so any help I can get on less stress to it is a welcome thing.
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- #34
New exhaust, I opted for a 14" 2.5" diameter inlet/outlet Magnaflow muffler with a 45* turnout before the rear tire on the passengers side. Sound is definitely louder, but the EGTs are much cooler with the free flow exhaust.
Also installed a Superior Engineering bash plate for the transfer case.
Also installed a Superior Engineering bash plate for the transfer case.
Nice! I have that one bookmarked too. Their protection pieces look to be the best. Did you order directly from OZ? Did you order anything else from Superior?
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- #36
Yes directly from Superior in Oz, I also got a 30mm coil spacer to level out the front end.
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- #38
They are not "true" sliders. I would say they are more of a nerf bar/side step with the front fender protection. At 5'8" I needed better side steps to be able to reach the surf racks. The OEM steps end short, and the ARB ones run the full length of the rocker.
All that being said I think they would hold up to moderate abuse, but not full blown frame sliding rock crawling.
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- #40
Hey y’all, it’s been a while since I have done anything to Stormtroopy.
Well, around three weeks ago as I was turning into the Biltwell parking lot, I heard a clunk and a grind! After two laps around the lot listening for the clunk and grind I determined it was either the rear u-joints or the diff. Pulled out the drive shaft and the u-joints were good(Matsuba). Put in in 4wd and took two more laps around the lot, the noises were more subdued with no direct power to the rear axle. Pulled the 3rd member to find broken pinion teeth!
Well, around three weeks ago as I was turning into the Biltwell parking lot, I heard a clunk and a grind! After two laps around the lot listening for the clunk and grind I determined it was either the rear u-joints or the diff. Pulled out the drive shaft and the u-joints were good(Matsuba). Put in in 4wd and took two more laps around the lot, the noises were more subdued with no direct power to the rear axle. Pulled the 3rd member to find broken pinion teeth!
