Stepping up to a Vortec (LM7) (1 Viewer)

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Got the PCM wired to the Volvo fan controller, also got the fluid in the transfer case changed. I am thinking next chance I get I will pull it out into the driveway and run it up to temp make sure the pcm kicks on the fans correctly. I'd like to get it to the exhaust shop next week and be able to start road testing it around town.
 
Got the 1/4 panels mounted to the frame without using the PO's ghetto brackets. Since the rig had a 3" body lift when I bought it (now has a 2) the factory mounting holes wouldn't work. Also got a bunch of small trim pieces on:

brake/clutch pedal pads (had ghetto metal pedal covers that sucked

License plate light

Trans/transfer case topped off with fluid.

I'm really down to the small stuff at the moment. I need a few more fittings and I can start working on my tank vent setup as well.
 
spent the last few days getting the clutch figured out. I think I finally got enough play, I re-used the clutch disk and pressure plate from the original sbc and I wasn't getting enough throw. I ended up replacing the clutch master and the slave and re-bleeding a few times and it seems to be working now.

If all goes well the rig goes to the exhaust shop on Saturday morning. I can't wait to be able to run it and start testing stuff out.
 
Been a long couple of days, got the exhaust done on Saturday:

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Y pipe came out good:

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Go it home on the trailer and went to take a drive and had 2 big issues:

1. Fuel pump is obnoxiously loud, I couldnt hear it over the open headers but now I can and it is bad. I got on ebay and found a AC Delco pump kit for that pump and picked it up for $50. Way better than a $2-400 replacement pump. Vetteworks offered to replace the pump for free, but it was a used pump and I knew that going in. They also offered to show me how to rebuild it so when it comes in I will take it down there and we can go through it. I'm thinking the pump sucked up some crap that was in the tank.

2. Clutch. :mad::mad: Still giving me problems. I can only shift when the TO is adjusted waaay too tight. I ordered a 1" brake master cylinder that I am going to re-purpose for a clutch master cylinder (most clutches seem to come in 7/8 or 3/4" bore) with my 3/4" slave cylinder. Hoping the larger bore forces the slave to extend a little bit more. I don't need much. Other option is the Centerforce unit.

I'd be interested to hear what other people's clutch setup's are..I really don't have the funds for a new pressure plate and clutch disk
 
I just read through your thread again in hopes of seeing how you integrated the howell harness and the stock harness. I have a howell harness and I am at the stage where I need to decide if I am going tear into the harness and remove the stuff I don't need or if I just tape up the obsolete stuff. My harness is uncut and everything works so I am hesitant to open that can of worms.

What did you do? Did you end up running two fuse boxes? One under the hood for the howell stuff and one for the stock harness?

I know the CF clutch and pressure plate will resolve your clutch dilemma. I was lucky to score one here on mud for basically the cost of shipping. I will keep my eyes peeled for you.

Great progress thus far!!! Keep it up.
 
TCStark,

Thanks!

At some point one of the PO's re-did the wiring with a painless wiring kit for a Jeep. Painless kit's are setup using GM colors. I got my engine/pcm/engine harness from BD turnkey engines, and he uses the harness from the donor vehicle and ties all the engine related stuff to a small fuse block, which used GM colors as well and he labeled everything. So I just had to find the right wire in the harness and match it to the engine harness.

So I have a fuse box in the footwell for all the guages, lights etc. Then I have a small fuse box on the firewall for the starter, engine, pcm. He basically makes it so you only have to wire up 3 wires to get the engine running, and then has extras (tach, ac condensor, etc) based on your setup.

I'm not familiar with the Howell setup, but I would leave your stock harness in place if you feel it's in good shape. I picked up a nice weatherpack kit off of Amazon.com to help clean up my harness because it was so hacked up in places. I'd recommend doing using them as well, it helped me out a lot. Especially if you need to make changes or you make a mistake, easier to change pins than having to deal with butt splices etc. just my opinion.

I hope this helps!

I just read through your thread again in hopes of seeing how you integrated the howell harness and the stock harness. I have a howell harness and I am at the stage where I need to decide if I am going tear into the harness and remove the stuff I don't need or if I just tape up the obsolete stuff. My harness is uncut and everything works so I am hesitant to open that can of worms.

What did you do? Did you end up running two fuse boxes? One under the hood for the howell stuff and one for the stock harness?

I know the CF clutch and pressure plate will resolve your clutch dilemma. I was lucky to score one here on mud for basically the cost of shipping. I will keep my eyes peeled for you.

Great progress thus far!!! Keep it up.
 
Got the clutch ironed out, used a slave cylinder from AA that has more throw than the stock one and made some adjustments to the pedal to get more throw out of it. I didn't bother trying either of the 1" bore brake master cylinders that I was going to re-purpose for a clutch cylinder.

Still need to iron out the fuel pump but I was able to put a few miles on the rig today. I am pretty happy about that
 
You are right and this was one of them. I really didn't want to drop the trans/transfer case again and buy a new clutch kit. It's also nice to know that easy to find Chevy truck stuff is fine to use. Once I get the fuel pump ironed out I can start some long drives in it


Congrats. It's the accomplishments that allow us to drive it after long periods of down time that usually are the most memorable in my book.
 
Picked up a $50 AC Delco fuel pump kit off of Ebay. Way cheaper than buying a new $300-400 pump assembly. Came with new hoses, filter, electrical connectors, and pump. Took about an hour to get it done and back in the truck.

No issues now, engine runs great pulls smooth and plenty of power. I'll need to work out some small bugs but other than that I am pretty happy. I'll try and post a video today if I get a chance.
 
Very nice work my friend! You should be proud of your accomplishment...

Thanks, I am a pretty happy camper at the moment. Still lots of little things left to tidy up, but I am basically done. Just in time for whatever good weather we may get up here in the PNW
 
Congratulation, awesome! Bet she hauls some butt. And thanks for all the details.
 
Congratulation, awesome! Bet she hauls some butt. And thanks for all the details.

Thanks!

and yes it does haul some serious but now. I can't believe the difference, once I get the vacuum line for the brake booster back in I'll get it out and on the freeway
 
Had some bugs along the way that needed to be fixed:

Driveshaft needed new u-joints. My DS is a oddball, 1969 U-joints on the T-Case side and the later 1974+ -joints on the diff side.

Tach read really low, said I was idling at 250 RPM. I have a autometer guage that has some dip switches in the back. I set the guage to 4cyl and it works fine.

Speedo, something's up with the cable. Not a huge deal, it was working fine until a day or so ago.
 

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