steering shaft came off

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Joined
Jan 25, 2006
Threads
33
Messages
118
Location
Santa Monica
Hi Everyone,
The shaft slipped off, from steering column because it is only held by the compression clamp. Is there a better way of attaching the 2 together? like maybe a set screw of some kind?
I
IMG_0601.webp

Thanks,
John
 
That's some scary sh.. right there. Your pics are pretty blurry. We need more pics and vehicle info. Looks like a V8 conversion. I suspect there's more dangerous rigging going on there. Don't drive it.
 
Looks like a CV axle shaft and boot from a frt wheel drive car.
 
A piece of hollow shaft/tubing/pipe (good steel) that's ID fits good to the OD of the two pieces of shaft. Overlap the joint an inch on each side. Drill threw the caller and shafts and install a 5/16 grade 8 bolt with nylock nuts.
 
You NEED to know what is underneath the boot in order to determine if that shaft is even appropriate to try and rehabilitate.
 
Steering system components MUST work correctly 100% of the time. It is not something you want to cheap out on.

I think the best setup is to use a telescoping shaft with Borgeson style needle bearing universal joints on both ends. The shafts are called DD shafts because there is a smaller D shaped shaft that fits into a larger one and that's how they slide in and out (telescope). The universal joints are available in may different configurations so you should be able to match up with your steering column and your steering box.
 
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I would highly recommend a borgeson setup and telescoping shaft like others have said.

I dimple the shaft with an appropriate size drill bit for each set screw to give it somewhere to recess into a bit.

I have also always tig welded on each joint just a little so there is really never any chance of them coming off. Just a small 1/4 bead is more than enough.
 
Looks like the power steering hose is rubbing against the shock tower and frame. The front crossmember where the steering box goes thru it looks severely compromised. The cuts extend past the cut hole. This is a high stress area. Look for cracks in the frame and in crossmember. It should be reinforced. With the engine running, watch that area while someone is turning the wheel back and forth. The PO of my 40 did the same thing. I had to eventually replace the crossmember and reinforce/rebuild the frame rails. I had to change my setup to scout steering after the frame repairs.

The spark plug wires are against the exhaust manifold. There's a better way to run them from underneath. I'll be glad to offer pics.
 
Looks like the power steering hose is rubbing against the shock tower and frame. The front crossmember where the steering box goes thru it looks severely compromised. The cuts extend past the cut hole. This is a high stress area. Look for cracks in the frame and in crossmember. It should be reinforced. With the engine running, watch that area while someone is turning the wheel back and forth. The PO of my 40 did the same thing. I had to eventually replace the crossmember and reinforce/rebuild the frame rails. I had to change my setup to scout steering after the frame repairs.

The spark plug wires are against the exhaust manifold. There's a better way to run them from underneath. I'll be glad to offer pics.
First-class eyeballs there! :cheers:
 
I think some disassembly is required so you can figure out what you need.
 
I think some disassembly is required so you can figure out what you need.
A small elaboration. The steering boxes have three different size/ spline patterns. That’s why you need to disassemble first.
 
Just got done rehabbing a sag setup. Kind of a PITA but i’d start from the gearbox and work your way back to the steering column. Summit Racing/Jegs/Speedway are your friends here. Borgenson and Flaming River make great adaptors.

I used a 3/4”-30 universal joint at the box into a 3/4 DD shaft up to the column. The set screws are good but also added a tack at each joint in 3 spots around the shaft.
 
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