Steering Rack
- Thread starter SWUtah
- Start date
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Newbie question, plain old ATF for PS fluid?
The reservoir cap on my 99 reads 'Use Dexron type ATF'.
I replaced the rack on it this past weekend. It was not really a hard job for this newbie, just had minimal space to work with under the truck. I stuck a piece of a 2x4 under the driver side motor mount and removed the oil filter to gain a little clearance on the drivers side.
It was tight!
The reservoir cap on my 99 reads 'Use Dexron type ATF'.
I replaced the rack on it this past weekend. It was not really a hard job for this newbie, just had minimal space to work with under the truck. I stuck a piece of a 2x4 under the driver side motor mount and removed the oil filter to gain a little clearance on the drivers side.
It was tight!
New mounts as well?
The rack comes with new bushings on the driver side. I reused the factory slip bushing on the passenger side as I didn't see any movement nor was it worn out. Plus, this can be changed quite easily on the vehicle if needed. I don't 'wheel' this vehicle so I believe the Toyota rubber should be fine.
@87warrior
You have any more pics???
Did you lift your truck? Or just the the engine by loosening the motor mount on the DS?
Btw? Is lifting the truck required for steering rack removal?
I keep going underneath my truck to get a lay of the land when it comes to the bushings on the rack. I don't quite get the PS and DS bushing. I see the big D bushing, but that's about it.
My steering is super tight on my '98. I don't have a leak. I can't tell if my bushings need replacing. Is it my tie-rods? UCAs? Ball joints? Bearings? My truck pulls a bit to the right at hwy speeds; enough to annoy me and my OCDness.
You have any more pics???
Did you lift your truck? Or just the the engine by loosening the motor mount on the DS?
Btw? Is lifting the truck required for steering rack removal?
I keep going underneath my truck to get a lay of the land when it comes to the bushings on the rack. I don't quite get the PS and DS bushing. I see the big D bushing, but that's about it.
My steering is super tight on my '98. I don't have a leak. I can't tell if my bushings need replacing. Is it my tie-rods? UCAs? Ball joints? Bearings? My truck pulls a bit to the right at hwy speeds; enough to annoy me and my OCDness.
I like flushing PS with Mobil 1 synthetic multi vehicle ATF, reduce noise and helps out seal.
This 100 is the first IFS vehicle I have ever worked on, so everything is 100% new to me. This thread really does a nice job explaining the rack replacement in a nutshell.
How To: Replace your own steering rack
I lifted the truck simply to provide more room to work with under there. You will need it. To raise the motor I unbolted the driver side motor mount, stuck a block of wood under the oil pan and jacked the motor up until a piece of 2x4 would fit between the frame and motor mount. I did not want to rely on a jack to support the motor when my arms were wedged in there.
The rack is only held in place with 4 bolts.
How To: Replace your own steering rack
I lifted the truck simply to provide more room to work with under there. You will need it. To raise the motor I unbolted the driver side motor mount, stuck a block of wood under the oil pan and jacked the motor up until a piece of 2x4 would fit between the frame and motor mount. I did not want to rely on a jack to support the motor when my arms were wedged in there.
The rack is only held in place with 4 bolts.
I had a strong pull to the right from worn out tie rod ends and upper control arms. Checking the play in the tires while pushing and pulling at 3&9 (both tires off the ground) showed the tie rods were bad; 6&12 showed the upper control arms were bad. I also found a little play in the PS steering rack grommet (big D shaped bushing) once I got in there. Driver side of the rack felt solid, so I didn't bother with those bushings (much harder to replace than the PS). Since my rack wasn't leaking, I decided to go the easier and cheaper route of replacing the tie rod ends and not the rack. After replacing these parts and an alignment my pull is gone. The steering is much improved and it's tracking straight. Doing it myself saved a lot of $. If your tires feel solid (very little to no play) when pushing/pulling at 3&9 and 6&12 than maybe a tire rotation and/or an alignment would do the trick.
Swap the front tires left to right and see if it starts pulling the other way. It isn't unheard of for a new tire to have a belt issue.
Sent from my HTCONE
Sorry for the hijack.
I'll give that a try.
Thanks
I'll give that a try.
Thanks
Also the crown in the highway has a tendency to make vehicles slowly drift right. May or may not be related but just throwing ideas out there.
Sent from my HTCONE
Yes. It doesn't pull drastically, but it's there
my 2003 with 119k wanders a bit, I attribute it to 119k and 295's on 16's with OME lift
two hands on the wheel and its fine, one hand and you need to know the vehicle
steering rack is wet but no drips
two hands on the wheel and its fine, one hand and you need to know the vehicle
steering rack is wet but no drips
- Thread starter
- #36
So when replacing the steering rack what other parts would you guys recommend replacing while your that far into the front suspension. I plan on keeping the breast for several more 100,000 miles. Thanks
Mine is a Lexus price includes alignment, cookies and a loaner car
Austin has only "1" place to eat cookies (1 Lexus dealer), so they can jack up the cookie prices. Try Toyota dealers. Sooner or later you have to end up replacing the rack. Why do you want to wait?
From your workout picture, those cookies got some juice!
Outer tierods. Just went through all of this a few weeks ago.
- Thread starter
- #39
At this point I think I am waiting because it drives perfect, even tire wear and I really think the Toyota dealership in Round Rock caused the damp seals with their power steering service two years ago. Since I added the stop leak no fluid loss, but I am watching it and planning for the repair when and if needed. Read on here many have never needed to change their rack and some at 250k+ miles. At my age 67, this steering rack could out last me.
No juice just been lifting for 50 years, now iron in the morning and happy hour at night
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Apologies for bumping an old thread, but it seemed the most appropriate. I recently bought an LC 100 w 176,000 miles on it. I had it checked out by a Toyota master tech and he gave it a clean bill of health, which slightly surprised me as the steering feel was a little off to me (it was a little raspy, for lack of a better way of describing it). I chalked up what I was feeling to the LC being on a truck frame, etc. and I had never really driven a vehicle like it before. Anyhow, after noticing a slight pulse near lock and what seemed like odd play in the wheel I decided to have it checked out. After about 15 minutes I was informed that I needed a new rack and pinion and that it would be $1,600. I crawled under the LC when I got home and did notice that the boot was wet, but the leak had not yet made it down to the ground. Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions about how I might further explore the situation here and figure out if I actually need a $1,600 replacement at this point. Picture attached, if it helps.
