Thank you for the reply. Can't believe how awesome this forum is. My project would probably take twice the time due to research- without this forum and the helpful folks on it.
Steering Knuckle 101....(FAQ) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Poser
- Start date
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Thank you for the reply. Can't believe how awesome this forum is. My project would probably take twice the time due to research- without this forum and the helpful folks on it.
Ok so probably a dumb question but wanted to ask since this seems like a good place to get a solid answer. I have a 40 series axle with the 60 series brake swap parts (except I need one steering arm atm). My hubs and rotors are from a 60 series where I have the big solid rotor. I was wondering if I could go to a different rotor which I assume is the 62 series where it can be slotted, drilled, vented, etc. Is that a direct bolt on as well or is there anything else that would make it imcompatible like the hubs, calipers, or anything else?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
If your rotor is solid, it isn't from an FJ60. FJ60 rotors were vented from the factory.
It sounds like you may have a mini truck rotor which were solid.
Drilling and slotting is pointless, don't do that.
It sounds like you may have a mini truck rotor which were solid.
Drilling and slotting is pointless, don't do that.
Wheel hubs and rotors: 76-78 Fj40 rotor bolted to hub; 79+ fj40, Fh60, Solid axle Mini rotor attaches to wheel hub with wheel studs. The rotor/wheel hub assemblies are interchangeable as a set. The later (wheel studs thru rotor) rotors are considerably cheaper than the earlier bolt on versions, however, they are more work and expense to change out because wheel lugs have to be removed and replaced, typically with a press. Mini rotors are not vented, but 4runner rotors are.
Yeah to take my rotor off the hub, I had to knock out all the studs plus remove a few bolts in order to separate the two from each other. From what you guys are saying it sounds like my parts are off the mini-truck setup. Thank you for confirming this. My rotors are probably brand newish because there is no scoring or anything on them so I intend to use them until they're exhausted.
I'm sorry but one clarifying question here. When it comes to do a replacement for these, can I use the land cruiser version or will I have to stick with the solid version? I'd prefer to keep it as landcruiserish as possible so that later on I have a lower chance of ordering the wrong parts.
The reason for my confusion is because I have to press the studs through so say would a 4runner rotor still work with my hub? How does that work if my current setup has studs pressed into the rotor while the 4runner doesn't?
I'm sorry but one clarifying question here. When it comes to do a replacement for these, can I use the land cruiser version or will I have to stick with the solid version? I'd prefer to keep it as landcruiserish as possible so that later on I have a lower chance of ordering the wrong parts.
The reason for my confusion is because I have to press the studs through so say would a 4runner rotor still work with my hub? How does that work if my current setup has studs pressed into the rotor while the 4runner doesn't?
If you have new solid rotors, you'll probably never have to replace them. I think there's .040 worth of meat before they reach discard thickness. But if you do need to replace them, FJ60 rotors are the answer. I used an 84 mini truck donor vehicle and put vented 85 FJ60 rotors on it with no problem. And...if you decide to replace the studs, both auto zone and napa have the wrong part listed for the 60 studs. The correct part numbers are: Napa 6413126 Autozone 610264.
edwjmcgrath, super cool thank you a bunch!
If you decide to go with the thicker slotted rotors (40/60 series) you will need to replace your calipers. I went with the V6 4runner calipers.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
This is gold, thanks Steve!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
What year are these calipers?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
On this topic, I assume it would be wiser to keep the 60/62 arms and find the appropriate tie rod to run 60/62/70 TREs on the narrower 40/55 housing? Vs. trying to source the '79+ 40 arms.
Simplest is to get the same year/model as your rotors. I got 85 FJ60 rotors and calipers.
Here is from my master list:
Front knuckles: '89 Toyota 4wd Truck
Front Rotors: '81 FJ40
Front Calipers: '90 V6 4Runner
Front knuckles: '89 Toyota 4wd Truck
Front Rotors: '81 FJ40
Front Calipers: '90 V6 4Runner
- Thread starter
- #34
Yes.
These bearings are the same on the solid axle drum and disc brake knuckles, 1958-1990.
What other vehicle has ANY part that didn't change for 32 years? Good for Toyota.
If it works, don't change it.
If it works, don't change it.
Subscribed.
Poser, this is the link I was referring to when I mentioned that I have one of each on my '79 FJ40 with drum brakes, which have the larger diameter and 3" wide drums on the front. You mention further down that all trunnion bearings are the same. What about the gasket, shim, seal kits? I see several that reference years and are for disc brake applications. Are there differences in the components? Does anyone know?
- Thread starter
- #38
The smaller pattern knuckles, using the 11mm studs, will use the smaller corresponding shim.
The spindle, mounting hardware wheel bearings, knuckle bearings, gaskets/seals are all the same.
The spindle, mounting hardware wheel bearings, knuckle bearings, gaskets/seals are all the same.
Thank you Poser! It looks like I would order two of the gasket kits to cover my bases. Would I just order say a '70 and a '79? I found on one of the links some measurements of the Toyota SST used for centering the knuckles to determine shimming. I do not believe my mechanic owns such a tool and suspect that on my '70, as well as his other work, he just replaces size for size "assuming" it wa good before. So I have a machinist here that did a good job for me on my roof rack pivots and so I will have him make me the pieces. I miss my Harding Chucker lathe
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I just finished checking the parts diagram and numbers on Toyota Overstock for '70, '79 and '84 and the shims all have the same part numbers. I was looking at the Marlin Crawler knuckle kits which include their inner axle seal as well as wheel bearings etc and thought I would go with that kit and then buy the smaller shims for one knuckle. Confusing as clearly the dimensions are different.
