- Thread starter
- #101
Finished with hubcaps on the truck
Started to bring my 74 FJ40 back to life.
- Thread starter mwalls54
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Looks great, but you might need a 3 jaw puller to get the hubcaps off 
- Thread starter
- #103
I made a tool just for that.Looks great, but you might need a 3 jaw puller to get the hubcaps off
Oh, the rig made it to the heated garage! Nice, look forward to seeing it soon.
- Thread starter
- #105
Just to get repaired and welded up. It will go back to its stable after fall crawl.
- Thread starter
- #106
I have been putting off and putting off pulling the trans and tcases for quite some time. There had always been a small leak since I installed them back in 2010. In the last year or so it has started to leak more and more. In October we had fall crawl and I filled up the case then in December a few of us made a trip to Rausch creek (see new Toyota Trails) and I filled it up again. Then two weeks later Jan 2 two more quarts. I parked it on the trailer and the skid plate was full of oil and the trailer looked like the 40 had gave birth.
I keep rebuild kits on the shelf so I pulled the trans and cases on monday and started to tear it down and clean everything up. I Used the tractor and pressure washed it. Much easier. Then mounted it to a stand that I use on most trans. I know people tend to work on them horizontal but I have better luck vertical.
Once mounted I tore into it. Most of the bolts were hand tight that held the 3speed case to the toybox. I pulled it and the case looked good no cracks. Im using a top bracket and nose cone saver. So on to the removal of the toybox. bolts were also hand tight. But who ever was in it before me used clear household silicone. I guess I was lucky it was only leaking drops.
I keep rebuild kits on the shelf so I pulled the trans and cases on monday and started to tear it down and clean everything up. I Used the tractor and pressure washed it. Much easier. Then mounted it to a stand that I use on most trans. I know people tend to work on them horizontal but I have better luck vertical.
Once mounted I tore into it. Most of the bolts were hand tight that held the 3speed case to the toybox. I pulled it and the case looked good no cracks. Im using a top bracket and nose cone saver. So on to the removal of the toybox. bolts were also hand tight. But who ever was in it before me used clear household silicone. I guess I was lucky it was only leaking drops.
- Thread starter
- #107
I got everything cleaned up on the transmission and the toybox. I hit everything with a wirewheel and everything was nice and clean. I prefit everything and noticed there were some high spots in the mounting plates. This might have caused one of the leaks. I hit it with a flat file and got it true. Then put it all back together and sealed it up. I had to do a few things for work and then go do the Inlaw christmas out of town so a week went by before I got back to the project.
I had taken my dad(75) on the Jan 2 run to the Cove here in VA. It was his first time going wheeling so he really has shown a interest in this hobby. Before it was dumb and a waste of time and money. Anyway, He stopped by I was painting the nose cone saver and the top brace and was explaining why they are needed. I pointed out that tabs brake off the nose cone. Mind you I inspected the case and already cleaned it up and dissembled it. It has sat on my make shift table for almost 2 weeks. I was going to say they crack right here and all I gout out was "They crack" and that sick to your stocmach feeling set in and he asked what. It was cracked. My guess it had cracked with the bracket off and there was nothing holding it together. Now what do I do
So my options are limited. Do I go back with another 3 speed case, go with a newer 4 speed case and loose my 2.3 lowrange to a 1.9 or go Orion.
I had taken my dad(75) on the Jan 2 run to the Cove here in VA. It was his first time going wheeling so he really has shown a interest in this hobby. Before it was dumb and a waste of time and money. Anyway, He stopped by I was painting the nose cone saver and the top brace and was explaining why they are needed. I pointed out that tabs brake off the nose cone. Mind you I inspected the case and already cleaned it up and dissembled it. It has sat on my make shift table for almost 2 weeks. I was going to say they crack right here and all I gout out was "They crack" and that sick to your stocmach feeling set in and he asked what. It was cracked. My guess it had cracked with the bracket off and there was nothing holding it together. Now what do I do
So my options are limited. Do I go back with another 3 speed case, go with a newer 4 speed case and loose my 2.3 lowrange to a 1.9 or go Orion.
- Thread starter
- #108
A few weeks went by and I was torn on what to do. I talked to a few buddies and I called up @orangefj45 and ordered a Orion. Once I got it in I had to throw it in the Mill to clear it for the toybox shifter. Once it was cleared the output housing of the toybox was protruding more than what the recess of the orion housing was allowing and left a .040 gap. Even with the gasket you could still see daylight between. During that time I made a few calls to Georg and to Matthew at Advance Adapters. Both were great help and had never seen or heard of anyone having a problem with tolerance. I guess not many people are dumb enough to have ran a toybox with an Orion. So I put it back in the mill and bored it down .040 and it fit perfect. Once the clearance fit I took my time and finished up the build a few weeks ago. I ran into a few problems but all were easy fixes and put it back in the 40 and my 9 year old has been testing it in the yard. Only thing I found so far is the parking brake cable came loose in the housing so I got it back together. Now I cant wait for the next trip out.
- Thread starter
- #109
I cleaned up the covers and put a nice clear on them and we will see how long it lasts.
iptman
SILVER Star
So what's the low-low final drive ratio with the Orion and Toy box?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
S_T_U_P_I_D low
My estimate is 648(!):1 (7.05 x 4.7 x 4.0 x 4.88)
(SM420xTBxOrionxDiff)
Last edited:
I hope you put the rubber bellows on the 2WD/4WD shifter shaft!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #113
Yep and put some grease in it. I didn't want the strap to mess it up.
- Thread starter
- #114
not that low.S_T_U_P_I_D low
My estimate is 648(!):1 (7.05 x 4.7 x 4.0 x 4.88)
H42xtbxorionxstockdiff
3.55x2.28x4.0.4.11
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
That side panel on the H42 kept making me think it was a SM420... I don't recall an H42 having an access panel on the side.
133:1 still not too shabby
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
Every time I get pulled into calculating crawl ratio, I get the urge to add a Toybox and break the 200:1 ratio. Meh, plenty of other things to do before I go down that rabbit hole?
- Thread starter
- #117
It has to be a early 4 speed. I need to dig thru my junk and see how it compares to my 74 4speed. Talk about a rabbit hole. I was looking at everything from Blackbox and split cases to atlas's but Orion was the cheapest by far and I didn't have to reconfigure everything. Did I want lower crawl ratio sure but at what cost.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Nice work on fixing the leaks, and a solid recovery after the cracked case fumble.
With all case crushing torque available now, it would be a good idea to use the 78-80 nosecone & fine spline 4wd shift collar & fine spline front driveshaft flange.
FWIW, H42 PTO side cover in on 74- mid 76. After that, the cast boss remains for several years, but isn't machined out.
With all case crushing torque available now, it would be a good idea to use the 78-80 nosecone & fine spline 4wd shift collar & fine spline front driveshaft flange.
FWIW, H42 PTO side cover in on 74- mid 76. After that, the cast boss remains for several years, but isn't machined out.
- Thread starter
- #119
Thanks Jim
I didn’t know there was a update on the nose cone itself. But I do have a fine spline front output shaft and collar along with flange. If you see in one of the pics there is multi drilled flange on front output. That was one of my set backs. The first set of shafts Georg sent the shift collar wouldn’t mesh up between the two shafts. I sent it back usps 3 day and it got lost and took 18 days
. Georg sent me a few shafts back to make sure at least one worked. I never paid attention and my flanges were 10 spline and had to order a fine spline and Georg has them in stock so two days later I had one in hand. I was thinking the trans was a 74 along with the tcase I had with 3 speed gears. But the case doesn’t have markings like most.
Are you coming to CMCC this year?
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The late nosecone is heavily ribbed, unlike the essentially smooth casting that's on there now. Combine it with class 12.9 studs & flanged nuts for the strongest possible setup.
Hoping to make CMCC, but it's contingent on getting new junkwagon assembled. Missing some part, can't quite remember...
Hoping to make CMCC, but it's contingent on getting new junkwagon assembled. Missing some part, can't quite remember...
