Spindle design - why are these different?

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greentruck said:
Well, OK, folks do like to talk about their bushings. I'm personally leaning towards going with the solid bushing over the needle bearing. Can't do that until I figure what hub I need to replace the needle bearing one.

Same as the one apparently refitted onto the PS already? In other words, the part I have isn't misboxed or anything, I just don't have the spindle that it matches on that side (althdugh I do on the other side.)

Fits just the same otherwise?

Part #? (or at least which years the different spindle was used, so I know what to ask for since I can't just ask for the part by VIN/build date.)

I suspect we finally answered the original question here. Yes, it seems like there are different spindles used on the 80.
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They all came from the factory with a bushing, lately all dealer replacements have the needle bearing.
 
I haven't tried, IIRC, the spindles are the same, bearings and bushings can be swapped. The short bushing and needle bearing are the same part as the 100 series and others.
 
LINUS said:
+1

No moving parts is a huge benefit IMO.
Like how just keeping your fan clutch healthy saves having a full electric/thermostat fan setup.

KISS ftw.
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If you like less moving parts then just go part time (should have been standard equipment) and then you have zero parts moving unless absolutely necessary.

I’ve had other 4x4’s that use a needle bearing in that position and never a problem.

How about we all toss our engines and hitch up a team of horses to eliminate even more of those pesky moving parts??
 
I've had both - I replaced mine with the newer updated needle bearing / combo, and instantly noticed less road noise. Not sure if that's because of the design, or perhaps my original bushings were worn out.
 
baldilocks said:
If you like less moving parts then just go part time (should have been standard equipment) and then you have zero parts moving unless absolutely necessary.

I’ve had other 4x4’s that use a needle bearing in that position and never a problem.

How about we all toss our engines and hitch up a team of horses to eliminate even more of those pesky moving parts??
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The ex had a horse. Clearly a animal of labor, that SOB was, -well-, -horse stupid.
My Moms had horses as a young lady, even she will tell you they're no Jack Russel Terrier, or similar IQ animal.
They'll rip their flesh on blackberry vines or barbed wire, from a spooking or just a simple tangle - cows are literally smarter when they trap themselves.

I'll make the gas to feed the motor, let a dirt farmer have a horse if he wants.
Plus a 1FZ is more reliable than a horse's organs - no love for those dumb beasts.

HP is the only term worth taking forward, that & the reason railroad track width is what it is (not a fact, I only know as an anecdotal thing - maybe real???), all the way to space shuttle booster rocket sizing.

I'll take the solid bushes, and make them myself once I do my schoolbooks.
 
Tools R Us said:
I haven't tried, IIRC, the spindles are the same, bearings and bushings can be swapped. The short bushing and needle bearing are the same part as the 100 series and others.
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I've tried it and the spindles are not the same ID. At least the two on my truck aren't. See my earlier post for the measured difference I came up up with. There must be two different part numbers, as they won't sub for each other.
 
The two versions of the front spindles are AFAIK directly interchangable and their only difference is that earlier ones use the solid brass bush with the later ones using the combination of brass bush with needle roller bearings. Otherwise they're identical.
 
That seems to be the assumption. But either I got the wild card spindle or there actually are two different versions. As I noted, the difference was enough that I don't think it'll buff out.

One interesting thing was that the half-bushing seemed like it might force fit, but keep in mind it just sits in the mouth of the cavity which may vary with depth. I took my measure in the mouth The needle bearing was just not going in, so didn't want to mess the half-bushing up doing that. After all, I have half a truck that it will fit.:doh:
 
Just to further stir the pot, I drained "the vat" today while cleaning up from the axle service. No spindle parts in it at all, instead of my assumption that whichever one was in the DS slipped out so easily that dropped into the vat when I yanked the hub/rotor assembly. I've never had that side open and we've put over 35,000 miles on the truck. Either someone before we bought it serviced it that way or my lone attempt at dealing withe the local dealership service department went more wrong than I already knew.

However, the spindle on the DS cheerfully accepted the new half-bushing and needle-bearing.

The PS spindle just laughed evilly when asked to do the same...
 
Spoke with my vendor today and asked what they thought. Their take was that it was likely an aftermarket spindle someone had subbed onto the truck. They agreed that Toyota only has the one part number, so there's not another part number spindle I need to look for. I now plan to obtain the new spindle and replace whatever that thing is that's been causing trouble several times over in various ways with it.

So it's possible that others may run into the same issue. Theoretically, the interior of the suspect hub could be turned enough further to remove the material needed to let the needle bearing slip in. But I'd rather not have flaky parts on the truck so plan to replace the spindle while things are still fresh from the refresh. I've got extras of the expendables needed.
 
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