SPC UCAs Poll - what are you running?

What setting are your star plates on?

  • Total voters
    15
  • Poll closed .

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jLB said:
As one of the "B" votes...

This is on my son's LC. We purchased his vehicle with a poorly thought out and installed OME lift and other frontend issues. One of the first things that we did to try and address the bad behavior (lack of caster, lack of droop, and excessive play in the steering) was the SPC UCAs. It was a night and day difference. Later in the process of exorcising the demons from the frontend, we also replaced the steering rack bushings, TRE, and rebuilt the steering rack and PS pump. It feels like a (very large and heavy) sports car now, compared to the nervous, wandering, disconnected from the road, pissed off beast with a punishing ride, that we purchased.

As a reference point, my son's LC is currently at ~21.5" (~+2") in the front, on 285/75R16 tires, OEM wheels, diff drop, no spacers, OME 860 springs/torsion bars/shocks, ARB front bumper w/ winch.

If I remember correctly from the last alignment, we're at ~1* over the factory recommended caster setting. It's probably a little overkill at this point, but his car feels and drives well, and about the only negative that I notice, compared to my LX, is a little "scrubbing" at "full lock". We could probably dial it back to "C" or maybe even "D" at this point, but we haven't been highly motivated to do so, because a little extra caster feels so much better than too little caster.

Similar previous threads:

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Great info in there, thank you for the thorough writeup! It sounds like B might be a bit much then for my setup, pretty much the same as yours, and based more on comments than number of votes Ia m currently trending toward setting up at C for my first try....

any more votes out there, or even better, folks that have run C and D in a back-to-back comparison?
 
Ok Dave- it's not a forever setting, you can change it in less than 10min.

If you knew what your caster settings were before the install and you set the adjusting nut to the same place, you can try, "C" and see how it drives, then "D" and see how it drives. Then go get your alignment to dial it in.

Or if you're running 2-2.5" just go with "C" and enjoy end setting of about 3 degrees of caster.
 
I believe you want to aim for between 3-4 degrees of positive caster, everyone's setup will vary a little depending on lift height, rim/ tyre size etc, but the "C" setting seemed to be most commonly used in Australia for guys running 2 inch plus lift on 17 inch rims will 33 inch tyres. From memory I achieved around 3.4+ caster on both sides.
 
You just spent almost $600 on UCA's... take full advantage of them and dial the caster up to +4-4.5 degrees. If you don't do it, you'll always be wondering "what if..." :)
 
hoser said:
You just spent almost $600 on UCA's... take full advantage of them and dial the caster up to +4-4.5 degrees. If you don't do it, you'll always be wondering "what if..." :)
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LOL, I set them at C and am going into the alignment shop tomorrow, will report back ;)
 
abuck99 said:
Like the new logo
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LOL, iterating... things look different in your head, then on the screen with a white background, then on this forum with a black one... and this ain't my day job peeples!

but thanks;)
 
I've got to order a set. I have a newer OME 2.5" lift with OME shocks, springs, torsion bars, Slee diff drop, and 150 mm Spidertrax spacers up front. After my lift I went in for an alignment and my front right camber was maxed out but still out of spec. I took it on a 500 mile trip this past weekend and drove around 80 on the interstate and it drove great but it's pulling to the right.
 
Ok party peeple I just got back from the alignment shop. Set to 'C', measured at 21.75" hub to fender on driver side and 22 on passenger (need to drop to match driver side, that's not enough droop on my rig). Results:

alignment.webp


As you can see the caster is at the upper range of spec, and if I had gone in at 'D' would've still been in the lower range of spec at 2.1*, so that's probably why folks are running both and there's no clear one answer: both will be fine. (for comparable setup)
 
Hows it drive?

One of the benefits of additional caster upwards of 3 degrees is better "return to center". On our lifted rigs I think pushing the caster to the upper end of the factory spec( 3.25 +/- degrees)- or just beyond helps with mitigating front end wandering or darting when you hit potholes, or other uneven bumps etc that causes the steering to pull to one side or the other.
 
cruzerDave said:
Ok party peeple I just got back from the alignment shop. Set to 'C', measured at 21.75" hub to fender on driver side and 22 on passenger (need to drop to match driver side, that's not enough droop on my rig). Results:

View attachment 1456688

As you can see the caster is at the upper range of spec, and if I had gone in at 'D' would've still been in the lower range of spec at 2.1*, so that's probably why folks are running both and there's no clear one answer: both will be fine. (for comparable setup)
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Almost like you planned it out or something :)
 
Ok, I took a couple days of driving before commenting as to the feel of 'C'...

Overall I am happy. It feels more 'lively' than before, not grabbing or jerking, or pulling or any other negative adjective - if anything I would say more car-like and less slug-like. I'm trying to not be influenced by NAS (new alignment syndrome) which can influence one's perception, but I think I am being fair when I say it is an excellent improvement. That said it HAS been a several month journey from the moment I first broke Mr T's bits loose and started bolting on kit that was never envisioned by her creators, so it's possible it is impossible for me to give you an impartial review - I don't know. But I AM happy ;)
 
Just got mine installed, they're at "C" and I'm at 3.5 degrees caster on both sides. :bounce: Between these, new lower ball joints (555's), tightening up the loose bearings (and reclamping a CV boot while I was there) it feels like a whole new truck! With the tire off, at full droop, with Iron Man Foam Cell Pro shocks, I measure just a shade under 24" hub center to fender lip.
 
Newbie 2000 LX470 owner here!!
Just purchased a pair of the SPC UCAs, and plan on doing the installation soon.
I read that most of y'all runs D or C position with a lift, but my LX470 is running on stock AHC with no lift. I'm just wondering which ball joint position you guys would recommend? With initial installation, would you recommend to position the ball joint in the middle of the sliding slot to get the camber as close as possible before alignment?

Thank you guys so much in advance!!
 
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