SPC UCAs Poll - what are you running?

What setting are your star plates on?

  • Total voters
    15
  • Poll closed .

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cruzerDave

cruzerDave

Land Shark Outfitters
10 Year
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Threads
50
Messages
1,007
Location
Bend, Oregon
Website
landsharkoutfitters.com
I've read several threads where folks talk about running +3 (D) or +4 (C) degrees caster and the merits of each.

I'm installing these upper control arms this weekend and am wondering what folks are happily running, assuming 2-3" lift (50-70mm droop), diff drop, upgraded shocks and torsion bars, and 33's (ie the usual suspects)

A reminder on the adjustments:
Screen Shot 2017-05-03 at 4.32.28 PM.webp
 
I'm running setting "C"

Caster numbers are right around 3degrees with the caster adj plate pretty much in the center of the adjustment range.

You may notice a slight rub in tha back of the fenderwell- which can be worked out with a heat gun or moving back to setting "D".
 
Thanks for voting, so far you're the only one!

Are you running spacers or no? (might impact the rubbing you are describing)
 
Running on setting D. Pretty much same suspension set up and tire size. No spacers. Feels and acts good.
 
Not a lot of votes so far, not sure if that is few folks running these or not seeing the post or miserably uninteresting threat title? :hmm:
 
I'm curious, as I have a set awaiting installation.
 
Interesting. I have a set in the garage waiting on install too.
 
I have them on my Tundra, and I wish I had set them differently.
 
Moody said:
I have them on my Tundra, and I wish I had set them differently.
Click to expand...
I originally had mine set at D but the idiots at the alignment shop couldn't get me the caster I wanted. Kept giving me a lot of meaningless excuses. So I just drove home and took 15 minutes to change them to C and took it back for alignment. That got me where I wanted to be. It's very easy to change the setting. Seriously 10-15 minute job.

I also highly going somewhere where you can purchase a lifetime alignment plan like Firestone Auto Center, that way anytime you do a repair or mod that requires changing the torsion bar or UCA setting they will do an alignment free of charge.
 
Last edited:
What is the reality of not installing these with an OME 2.5 or similar lift? Is the D setting (which looks centered) still that far off from stock?

In the tundra, the UCAs are needed to relieve stress on the ball joint that isn't designed for that much down travel withe the strut type front suspension. I'm trying to decide it the extra $500 is necessary immediately with the lift or if it's something that can wait for my bank account to recover slightly.

Thanks.
 
ga12r1 said:
I originally had mine set at D but the idiots at the alignment shop couldn't get me the caster I wanted. Kept giving me a lot of meaningless excuses. So I just drove home and took 15 minutes to change them to C and took it back for alignment. That got me where I wanted to be. It's very easy to change the setting. Seriously 10-15 minute job.

I also highly going somewhere where you can purchase a lifetime alignment plan like Firestone Auto Center, that way anytime you do a repair or mod that requires changing the torsion bar or UCA setting they will do an alignment free of charge.
Click to expand...
Were you on the setup I listed (33s, 2-3", diff drop) or other? If you were then wondering why they couldn't get you to spec on 'D', and if I should in turn start out on C??
 
FLWookie said:
What is the reality of not installing these with an OME 2.5 or similar lift? Is the D setting (which looks centered) still that far off from stock?

In the tundra, the UCAs are needed to relieve stress on the ball joint that isn't designed for that much down travel withe the strut type front suspension. I'm trying to decide it the extra $500 is necessary immediately with the lift or if it's something that can wait for my bank account to recover slightly.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
The "D" setting gives you +1* of caster over stock.
 
cruzerDave said:
Were you on the setup I listed (33s, 2-3", diff drop) or other? If you were then wondering why they couldn't get you to spec on 'D', and if I should in turn start out on C??
Click to expand...
I think I would have been ok at "D" if the guys at the alignment shop had not been morons. I made the mistake of telling them I had adjustable UCAs and that just blew their minds. I should have just told them I needed an alignment.

All they would do is adjust toe (although they didn't tell me this). The caster numbers I went in with before the alignment were the same post alignment. They didn't even touch the cams. So I just moved it to "C" to get the caster I wanted.

I have since changed shops but I have kept the arms at "C".
 
To the two people that voted 'B' (+2.75*) what's your setup? I'm surprised to see so much additional caster....???
 
I'll have to go check. I have lifted since and might have to change the setting and do a realignment. My 1st alignment resulted in a back to spec settings except, steering angle inclination of more like 19 not the normal 12.5. Has anybody had this, corrected it and how?
 
I'm running "C", still getting a little bit of torque steer and it doesn't quite feel right when on full lock - not turning as tight as originally set up. The SPC's allowed me to achieve the correct droop (at least 70mm) following a tweak on the front torsion bars, close to a 3 inch lift.
 
cruzerDave said:
To the two people that voted 'B' (+2.75*) what's your setup? I'm surprised to see so much additional caster....???
Click to expand...

As one of the "B" votes...

This is on my son's LC. We purchased his vehicle with a poorly thought out and installed OME lift and other frontend issues. One of the first things that we did to try and address the bad behavior (lack of caster, lack of droop, and excessive play in the steering) was the SPC UCAs. It was a night and day difference. Later in the process of exorcising the demons from the frontend, we also replaced the steering rack bushings, TRE, and rebuilt the steering rack and PS pump. It feels like a (very large and heavy) sports car now, compared to the nervous, wandering, disconnected from the road, pissed off beast with a punishing ride, that we purchased.

As a reference point, my son's LC is currently at ~21.5" (~+2") in the front, on 285/75R16 tires, OEM wheels, diff drop, no spacers, OME 860 springs/torsion bars/shocks, ARB front bumper w/ winch.

If I remember correctly from the last alignment, we're at ~1* over the factory recommended caster setting. It's probably a little overkill at this point, but his car feels and drives well, and about the only negative that I notice, compared to my LX, is a little "scrubbing" at "full lock". We could probably dial it back to "C" or maybe even "D" at this point, but we haven't been highly motivated to do so, because a little extra caster feels so much better than too little caster.

Similar previous threads:

 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom