Soft top b-pillar (1 Viewer)

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Alex you need to back that statement up.
The only back up I have is through my conversation with the guy about 4 years ago. I asked him about the difference and he said his bows fit all years. I mentioned the slight bend in the B pillar and he said he wasn't concerned about it and that his bows would still work.
 
The problem is mainly the way the door closes it strikes the top of the door and is quite tight up top and normal along bottom

Afaik people here and there still get stuff from Ehsan... However he's not on mud anymore :(

But... Would think you could just get a later door bow and ship it out DHL ... Ehsan has sent things thru DHL before... Nice things is that it's to your door

AFAIK the bow above the door is also slightly different on hard door equipped later model trucks
 
Huh.

I've installed several sets on late models in the shop and never had an issue.

Certainly something I need to look into.
My comment was just about them knowing that there were two types of OEM bows and deciding to only make one type but market them as a fit for all years. Maybe they account for the curve in the late door some how, I don't know.
 
@LSUfj - I have two follow questions on this topic.

1. When you reference two cuts, are you saying that 1 and 2 identified in your original picture are the two cuts? Or should I take that statement to mean front and back?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424633684_161036.jpg


2. Did you remove the 1 3/4 inch from one side of the top hoop?

How did the top fit once you were done?
 
Take a look at a late model hard top to see where the bend is It is about 8 inches up from the top of the blue tape in the picture.
 
I totally understand how high up to cut. I am just trying to conceptualize where to make the two cuts.

It is like trying to order a sub with half mayo. Top half, bottom half or 1 side half...
 
If you can bend it without cutting a kerf like Toyota originally did, go ahead. If not cut a kerf all the way through except the outside surface of the B pillar and then weld up the kerf. Don't forget that the welding will cause an additional shrinkage by about .020. so take this into account when adjusting the width of the kerf. No amount of clamping will prevent the shrinkage.
 
Are Ehsan's bows made with the bend?
 
I made two cuts, inside and out. I left the two "edges" and bent around those. I only cut the top on one side. The bow from real steel is pretty flat at the top....not sure how that compares to OEM, but I put a slight arch in it by hand. Very subtle, but I think it will help steady the top in the wind. Hope this additional pic helps clarify the cuts.

image.jpeg
 
I bought a set of bows that were supposed to be "late-model", thinking they'd work with my hard doors. I haven't fit it all together yet, but I don't think they have this bend in them. They do have a cut-out for a dome light in one side (right side, so probably from an RHD rig).
 
LSUfj, do you have a pic like the one above after it was bent and welded? The pic above is very helpful, thx.

Allen
 
I have the opposite problem.. Late model bows and want to fit canvas doors. I'm thinking I'll need to bend the frames as well as slightly relocate the window tracks at the bottom of the run.

I'll get to it someday.

Pete
 
I have the opposite problem.. Late model bows and want to fit canvas doors. I'm thinking I'll need to bend the frames as well as slightly relocate the window tracks at the bottom of the run.

Does your b-pillar have the provision for the dome light on the driver's (right) side? Just curious.
 
Yep. And a flat blank on the left.

P
 
Just an FYI

Late model trucks with the oem fst canvas doors came with straight bows

And also late model steel door equipped FST trucks also had the middle bow a tad shorter as well and the bow over the door was different along with the door bow
 

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