I don't recall the actual brand but I put in the largest unit that would fit in the available space. I however can get the model number if you need it.
So I want a BJ74...
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I don't recall the actual brand but I put in the largest unit that would fit in the available space. I however can get the model number if you need it.
- Thread starter
- #22
1978HJ45, Just wondering about the size but any info would be much appreciated!
This is all good feedback and now the real question is...
Or to add one more.
Just hold out and find a 5 speed with all the goods and sleep better knowing I went all out?
This is all good feedback and now the real question is...
Or to add one more.
Just hold out and find a 5 speed with all the goods and sleep better knowing I went all out?
I will try to get a photo of the aux cooler tomorrow.
Sorry can't help you with the decision. : )
My advise is to always buy the cleanest lowest mileage truck you can. If you can find one with all the factory bells and whistles its worth paying a premium price. Buying something someone else has built / modified is hit and miss. In my experience its been mostly miss. Not everybody has the skill level they think they do and most dont hold their work to high enough standards. So you end up finding out the hard way when things weren't done properly. Adds up fast and really takes the fun out of a new purchase. On the other hand you buy something stock and spend your time and money building it up the way you want and you will be much happier in the long run, even if it does cost you a little more
I can't remember the best mileage I got in my 13bt/74. Maybe 23mpg. The thing that sucked was the underpowered and inability to handle hills in May-Sept in southern Arizona- it would get hot enough that I feared overheating the head and killing the engine. I moved to a 1hd-t in March 2006 and never looked back.
That being said, I would buy the red portuguese lhd (in tenn in for sale section) and build it up to what you want with a 1990 plus 6 cylinder.
The 73/4 is a really good size for daily driver, parks well, has highway manners (I drive 75mph on az roads), and wheels well. I am converting to lhd as we speak (bj74's never came factory in lhd) but more for a project than an illness for rhd. They need a good rear bumper without relocating the lights and save the right rear door hinges that support the tire day after day. Oh, 33" tires fit with no lift.
That being said, I would buy the red portuguese lhd (in tenn in for sale section) and build it up to what you want with a 1990 plus 6 cylinder.
The 73/4 is a really good size for daily driver, parks well, has highway manners (I drive 75mph on az roads), and wheels well. I am converting to lhd as we speak (bj74's never came factory in lhd) but more for a project than an illness for rhd. They need a good rear bumper without relocating the lights and save the right rear door hinges that support the tire day after day. Oh, 33" tires fit with no lift.
My Kamar will be delivered by the weekend.....
If you make it up to SLC, we can put you behind the wheel of just about every option. BJ70, BJ74 (man), BJ74 (auto), etc. No better way to know if it will work for you than to spend some time behind the wheel.
I'm getting ~22mpg out of Project LXXIV fully loaded with the 5-Speed, and ~20mpg out of 'Righty' with the auto (average around town and highway). As far as drive-ability, sure it is different but I don't think the manual is that much faster in fact the pace pretty evenly other than off the line. LXXIV is running 33's and Righty is on 32's.
As for use on ~5 day trips, etc... 100% rocking option. I used LXXIV to lead the Cruise Moab SR Swell Run and then into Moab for the rest of the event and I was happy with the room it offered and the handling/performance. They don't have the room of a 6x/80/100 and you can't sleep inside of them. For some that is a deal breaker and the 6x options make more sense. Throwing out a plug for my partner at LandCruisersDirect.com, take a peak at the inventory on the ground here in the US, some in Missouri and some here in Utah.
I'm getting ~22mpg out of Project LXXIV fully loaded with the 5-Speed, and ~20mpg out of 'Righty' with the auto (average around town and highway). As far as drive-ability, sure it is different but I don't think the manual is that much faster in fact the pace pretty evenly other than off the line. LXXIV is running 33's and Righty is on 32's.
As for use on ~5 day trips, etc... 100% rocking option. I used LXXIV to lead the Cruise Moab SR Swell Run and then into Moab for the rest of the event and I was happy with the room it offered and the handling/performance. They don't have the room of a 6x/80/100 and you can't sleep inside of them. For some that is a deal breaker and the 6x options make more sense. Throwing out a plug for my partner at LandCruisersDirect.com, take a peak at the inventory on the ground here in the US, some in Missouri and some here in Utah.
Well here is my 2 cents... having two cruisers to pick from to drive is wonderful, even better .... Kurt must have a hard time leaving to go any where with all the choices he has to drive. 
I went with this platform (73/74) for most of the same reasons you have stated and to reduce mileage on my 100s. I find it very enjoyable to DD with the stick even in traffic. I feel it has plenty of power for its size even with out a turbo (on mine). Of course I am not at a high elevation. I like rick_d suggestion buy that one LHD and drop a better engine in it and away you go.... of course sell me those rear doors..
I went with this platform (73/74) for most of the same reasons you have stated and to reduce mileage on my 100s. I find it very enjoyable to DD with the stick even in traffic. I feel it has plenty of power for its size even with out a turbo (on mine). Of course I am not at a high elevation. I like rick_d suggestion buy that one LHD and drop a better engine in it and away you go.... of course sell me those rear doors..
$0.02 worth
Go for the best condition vehicle. Mileage doesn't matter nearly as much as being rot free.
Go for the best condition vehicle. Mileage doesn't matter nearly as much as being rot free.
- Thread starter
- #30
Kurt,
I'v been talking with Steve and he's been super helpful sending me tons of pics and vids and also dealing with me asking lots of questions. The red 89 is leading the pack right now.
Yeti,
rick_d's idea is a good one but my work space right now can't really support an engine swap, but I would love to take on a project like that down the road.
I would love to take everyone up on there offers to drive there rigs to help me get a feel for what I'm looking for but fire season has me locked down at work for a few more months.
Thinking of going the auto but rust free route. Sticking to 31s or 235s to help with millage and make the pull from 4000ft to 9000ft a bit easier. Maybe add an trans cooler and then just drive the thing and enjoy it. Worry about lockers, axles, ect... down the road.
I'v been talking with Steve and he's been super helpful sending me tons of pics and vids and also dealing with me asking lots of questions. The red 89 is leading the pack right now.
Yeti,
rick_d's idea is a good one but my work space right now can't really support an engine swap, but I would love to take on a project like that down the road.
I would love to take everyone up on there offers to drive there rigs to help me get a feel for what I'm looking for but fire season has me locked down at work for a few more months.
Thinking of going the auto but rust free route. Sticking to 31s or 235s to help with millage and make the pull from 4000ft to 9000ft a bit easier. Maybe add an trans cooler and then just drive the thing and enjoy it. Worry about lockers, axles, ect... down the road.
Be careful with the A440F auto box. They do not like heat.
If you do this route, make sure you install an auxiliary radiator for the tranny fluid.
Other issue: very little parts availability for the A440F in the US. Whereas with the H55F, you can drive up I-25 to ABQ, stop by and say hi to CDan and then get necessary parts for your H55F 5speed.
If you do this route, make sure you install an auxiliary radiator for the tranny fluid.
Other issue: very little parts availability for the A440F in the US. Whereas with the H55F, you can drive up I-25 to ABQ, stop by and say hi to CDan and then get necessary parts for your H55F 5speed.
- Thread starter
- #32
Be careful with the A440F auto box. They do not like heat.
If you do this route, make sure you install an auxiliary radiator for the tranny fluid.
Other issue: very little parts availability for the A440F in the US. Whereas with the H55F, you can drive up I-25 to ABQ, stop by and say hi to CDan and then get necessary parts for your H55F 5speed.
Like you wouldn't drive one in NM heat? I do like the idea of better parts availability.
Photos sent to your email address.
Well, I know NM heat pretty well.
I was saying overheating the transmission itself.
Well, I know NM heat pretty well.
I was saying overheating the transmission itself.
The solution ........
- Thread starter
- #36
So Ill throw another option in to the mix.
Go with a 73, get the H55f and add a turbo.
This is against an Auto 74
Pros that I can tell:
H55f- stronger, more efficient, and easy parts VS Auto
Most had FF axle(I think)
3B-Parts availability, 3Bs were sold in N.A. (Though were talking 3B Vs 3Bii now)
3B-Most agree that it takes a turbo well (turoglide, ect..)
Cost- non turbo seems to go for a hair less
Cons that I see:
Turbo set up would be non Toyota- Not really a bad thing, just cool factor.
More wrenching and less driving at first- again not really a bad thing
I really dig the "turbo" embroidered seats- Vanity
I know I am missing a ton of others so please chime in!
Average cost of a turbo kit? Availability?
Go with a 73, get the H55f and add a turbo.
This is against an Auto 74
Pros that I can tell:
H55f- stronger, more efficient, and easy parts VS Auto
Most had FF axle(I think)
3B-Parts availability, 3Bs were sold in N.A. (Though were talking 3B Vs 3Bii now)
3B-Most agree that it takes a turbo well (turoglide, ect..)
Cost- non turbo seems to go for a hair less
Cons that I see:
Turbo set up would be non Toyota- Not really a bad thing, just cool factor.
More wrenching and less driving at first- again not really a bad thing
I really dig the "turbo" embroidered seats- Vanity
I know I am missing a ton of others so please chime in!
Average cost of a turbo kit? Availability?
After a month dding my BJ74, I def have rethought a few items in my decision but, as I was on a budget, I would've had to trade off something here or there. I opted for a ~200km, 13B-T, auto, LSD rear, FF rear (pretty sure ALL JDM BJ73/74s got FF rears), really clean body, paint, and decent interior.
The things I find myself rethinking are: auto vs 5spd, no cable lockers, and the non-factory/missing seats. The only other one I was considering at the time was a non-turbo BJ73 with 5spd that also did not have lockers, and another one that was a turbo with auto that did have cable lockers, but didn't have a great body (some rust holes).
I'm happy with my choice of the three but I sure woulda loved to find (and had patience to wait for) one with every awesome option, but I know that woulda catipulted it into a higher $$ amount and prob outta my range.
I've got a e-lock diff in my garage that I'm thinking about swapping into the rear and throwing the LSD up front(or perhaps vice-versa), and I'm working on the seat situation. The auto I'm stuck with for now. But I really don't hate the auto. Its pretty nice for DD. I just leave it in 3rd for around town and then manually put it into 4th when I hit the highway (it def gets into that OD really quick...)
Anyway, that's my thoughts for now... LOL
The things I find myself rethinking are: auto vs 5spd, no cable lockers, and the non-factory/missing seats. The only other one I was considering at the time was a non-turbo BJ73 with 5spd that also did not have lockers, and another one that was a turbo with auto that did have cable lockers, but didn't have a great body (some rust holes).
I'm happy with my choice of the three but I sure woulda loved to find (and had patience to wait for) one with every awesome option, but I know that woulda catipulted it into a higher $$ amount and prob outta my range.
I've got a e-lock diff in my garage that I'm thinking about swapping into the rear and throwing the LSD up front(or perhaps vice-versa), and I'm working on the seat situation. The auto I'm stuck with for now. But I really don't hate the auto. Its pretty nice for DD. I just leave it in 3rd for around town and then manually put it into 4th when I hit the highway (it def gets into that OD really quick...)
Anyway, that's my thoughts for now... LOL
Most of us have to compromise due to budget constraints and availability issues not to mention the stupid import laws.
Acknowledging these issues, if I had to sell one of my Cruisers, I would be forced to let the HJ75 go because the BJ74 is so much better suited for a daily driver. Is the BJ74 perfect? ......... not by a large margin but the good points by far outnumber the bad ones.
Acknowledging these issues, if I had to sell one of my Cruisers, I would be forced to let the HJ75 go because the BJ74 is so much better suited for a daily driver. Is the BJ74 perfect? ......... not by a large margin but the good points by far outnumber the bad ones.
so you have no issue throwing $2000 for a turbo kit on a 30 year old engine?
Dude, get an 1HZ transplant then. 129-135 BHP, you can make a 1986 or later transmission work, parts out the ying yang because the engine came to north america for the mines (except there are 378 timing belts in the US and they will not deliver to dealers). While 24 valves are trick, for north america 12 valve engines -the 1HZ and 1HDT - allow part support.
By the way, my truck came to north america with semi float rear end (and I know another in phx with same issue), therefore no lockers, and no center pod, but I did get a PTO that I have since sold off. I have since put a VX LJ70 interior in it with suspension seats and split reclining rear seats- the freaking shiznick, I had cable lockers which I just sold (good luck Ken!) and now have the abortion of all abortions happening (see photoessay).
If you do get a JDM, move the rear seat back 3-4" for normal humans to use
Dude, get an 1HZ transplant then. 129-135 BHP, you can make a 1986 or later transmission work, parts out the ying yang because the engine came to north america for the mines (except there are 378 timing belts in the US and they will not deliver to dealers). While 24 valves are trick, for north america 12 valve engines -the 1HZ and 1HDT - allow part support.
By the way, my truck came to north america with semi float rear end (and I know another in phx with same issue), therefore no lockers, and no center pod, but I did get a PTO that I have since sold off. I have since put a VX LJ70 interior in it with suspension seats and split reclining rear seats- the freaking shiznick, I had cable lockers which I just sold (good luck Ken!) and now have the abortion of all abortions happening (see photoessay).
If you do get a JDM, move the rear seat back 3-4" for normal humans to use
I took my rear seat out. It never had seat belts anyway and I did not want to monkey with trying to fit any. If I want to take a crew I grab the 80, it's more comfortable for that job anyway. I am super happy with the FF axle, cable locks, 5 speed and PTO winch. In a perfect world the color would be different. I stayed with the original color on the refinish because color-changes tend to be tacky unless you tear the vehicle down to the frame and mine did not need that.