Snorkel alternative option opinion

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danny93kor

danny93kor

Joined
Aug 8, 2024
Threads
4
Messages
10
Location
montana
HELLO, I recently moved to Florida and have a 96 LC. I’ve been looking into doing some water crossing lately. I do not currently have a snorkel and spoke to my mechanic who said snorkels are actually not as efficient as I thought, because of how they are made the center of the snorkel is narrow which causes the air to be restricted which causes the MPG to go from maybe 10 to about 8 and a snorkel is a permanent fit.
What he suggested doing is adding a removable hose directly from the air box mounted high on the fire wall, this way when I’m not in a water crossing situation I can run my 80 normal, but when it come time to crossing something deep I can connect the hose and introduce cold air from the cabin into the engine.

I never heard of people doing this but he says it with be more efficient when driving in normal conditions and as long as my cabin is not flooded the air will reach the engine same as a snorkel.

Has anyone here done this mod?

From the mechanics prospective is seems logical sacrifice a higher aire intake for one that is lower but inside a bubble (the cabin) and keep the current MPG


Pic of my last FL off road water crossing( this is considered low) I know I need a snorkel but I’m looking for what is the best option.
IMG_1583.webp
 
Or just buy a boat 🤷‍♂️
 
Really if you’re in water that deep or deeper there’s more to worry about then just a snorkel.
 
if your that deep without a snorkel you better have a spare engine. simple
happens here all the time
so whats your priorities... some mechanic's flap about mpg (who i bet has no real world experience with one) or a new engine....which he will prob be installing
 
I noticed zero change in MPG with the snorkle. He must not have seen the baffles inside the fender as they are more restrictive (and also removed for the snorkel install)

Plus said hose would need to be 3-4” in diameter for his logic to um…. Flow.

Snorkel or not, you need to be waterproofing all the electronics and connectors below the hood as well.
 
danny93kor said:
I can connect the hose and introduce cold air from the cabin into the engine.
Click to expand...

Your mechanic wants to cut a hole in the firewall and draw air from the cabin? Cut where exactly? Tell the truth, you're the mechanic. 😁

Well, you will be introducing negative pressure into the cabin, which will help water enter the cabin faster. 🏊

IMHO, the 80 series is not meant for deep water crossing. Too many holes in the lower body that are open to the cabin. Plus, tons of very important connectors and electronics positioned low in the body.

There are 4" snorkels, like from Radius Fabrications, that should not impact MPG much or at all.
 
80s arent the best deep water crossing vehicles. The electronics are old and the connectors lose the ability to stay waterproof because of that. Going through deep water then water gets trapped in the connectors and corrodes the pins unless you re-water proof the connectors beforehand. In addition they have insulated carpet that is difficult to dry if it gets wet. If you dont dry it, it gets moldy. Also the frame is fully boxed, so any silt or mud that gets in the frame is difficult to wash out. The body has a lot of enclosed channels that let water in, but dont let water out unless you pull the right body plugs out to drain the enclosures.
 
Get the snorkel, replace all your connectors with those waterproof Deutsch connectors, extend all your diff breather tubes, remove your carpet, drill some drain holes.
 
wpns4l said:
Get the snorkel, replace all your connectors with those waterproof Deutsch connectors, extend all your diff breather tubes, remove your carpet, drill some drain holes.
Click to expand...
yup kinda standard 4x4 procedure no matter what you wheel
or avoid all mud and water like the plague
Or both!
 
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water up to 3’ has not been an issue in the 80 for me.
I steer clear of Mud whenever possible 😂
 
ppc said:
Buy a diesel that has far less electronics. A 1FZ-FE motor cant even survive getting sprayed in a car wash.
Click to expand...
I've sprayed down my engine bay dozens of times without regard to what got wet. Not to mention a couple auto car wash trips.
 
🕐
tik tok 😅
 
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Most other members have pointed out the problems you may, or could encounter with electrical connectors. But here is one major problem most people NEVER think about when crossing deep water. Plus if your truck has factory front and rear diff lockers that are now over 28 years old, the idea of submerging them completely in deep water could be a very bad/expensive idea.

The rubber lip seals used on your axles, transmission, and engine are made to keep oil in, NOT to keep water out when submerged in deep water. I use to work on US ARMY trucks that were equipped with special systems to allow them to ford deep water.

They came equipped with a low pressure air system installed on them that would pressurize all the axles, transmission, and the engine to counter the outside water pressure trying to push the water pass the lip seals when crossing deep water.

There was also a plug that needed to be installed on the Allison automatic transmission bell housing to allow the air system to pressurize the bell housing to keep water from flooding in around the torque converter.

Even with all of these measures in place to prevent water from getting in, water still got in and requiring the draining, and refilling of all fluids at a field maintenance depot.

When, not if you get water in, and if you don't drain that water and fluid out right away, you'll be looking at some major repair bills.
 
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Rifleman said:
Most other members have pointed out the problems you may, or could encounter with electrical connectors. But here is one major problem most people NEVER think about when crossing deep water. Plus if your truck has factory front and rear diff lockers that are now over 28 years old, the idea of submerging them completely in deep water could be a very bad/expensive idea.

The rubber lip seals used on your axles, transmission, and engine are made to keep oil in, NOT to keep water out when submerged in deep water. I use to work on US ARMY trucks that were equipped with special systems to allow them to ford deep water.

They came equipped with a low pressure air system installed on them that would pressurize all the axles, transmission, and the engine to counter the outside water pressure trying to push the water pass the lip seals when crossing deep water.

There was also a plug that needed to be installed on the Allison automatic transmission bell housing to allow the air system to pressurize the the bell housing to keep water from flooding in around the torque converter.

Even with all of these measures in place to prevent water from getting in, water still got in and requiring the draining, and refilling of all fluids at a field maintenance depot.

When, not if you get water in, and if you don't drain that water and fluid out right away, you'll be looking at some major repair bills.
Click to expand...
especially when your diff breather is clogged even if it is run high enough the hot diff oil will be cooled by the water, it will create a vacuum as everything contracts and draw water in. diff soup
The reverse will happen when running on the highway and everything gets real hot and the expansion will push diff oil out the seals if the breather is clogged as well
 
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