Skreddy’s 71 Resto (2 Viewers)

[Skreddy]

Man, I feel like I haven’t had much time to work on this since my last update. Last few days I’ve found an hour here and there and got some stuff done. I was able to get my rear heater hoses routed. I’m using soft lines and likely overused the hold down clamps, but it made me feel better knowing they are secure. Was also able to run the front heater hoses. Then, I could get the gas tank in and finally the passenger side of the front bench. Had a couple helpers with the tank; the German Shorthair loves sitting in front of a fire.... Haven’t cleaned the steering wheel yet but I loosely installed it so I could sit in there and enjoy a frosty beverage. I need to get my drums cleaned up and painted but the brakes look great. They were redone in 1989-90 but never driven since. Going to inspect every wheel cylinder before I start adding fluid.

 

[Skreddy]

Every wheel cylinder has needed attention. None needed a “rebuild”, just a really good cleaning. All 8 were brand new, oem cylinders installed in 1990, but never had fluid to them. The lube they had in them from the factory turned to gum so each one was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. Rears are all in and bled but I haven’t finished the fronts yet because I decided I should do a knuckle rebuild while it’s apart. Glad I did. All of it was done in 1990, but the passenger side axle seal was leaking gear oil past. So new seals and gaskets and fresh moly grease is on the way. Already planned on a gear oil flush anyway.
In the meantime, I rebuilt the jack and the alternator.

 

[softdrinkviking]

Damn that looks sweet. I wish I had the space to work on my cruiser by myself anymore.

 

[Skreddy]

This post has nothing to do with cruisers, but with my “other” car; but it’s my thread and I’m excited so I’ll post anyway. I have a 68 Chevelle with a pretty built up big block. Last summer I may have been overrevving and floated some valves, broke a roller lifter or two and wiped some cam lobes. Thanks to the Rona, there were no cores in to have another cam made so I’ve been waiting since august/September. I finally got my new cam and lifters and everything else and it’s all back and running! I didn’t realize how much I missed the smell of angry tires making long black 11’s on asphalt.
Anyhow, now I can get back on the cruiser. I finished one side knuckle rebuild and the plan tomorrow is to get the other side done, finish the brakes and get the wheels back on so it’s rolling again. Shooting for drivable in a few weeks.

 

[Curtice]

Awesome build and impressive work. I'm not too far away from you...hope to see it sometime!

 

[merbesfield]

I guess I haven’t updated here in awhile. I’ve been getting a ton done but it all seemed small and inconsequential, but I guess I’m keeping this updated for my own future reference as much as just a spot to show what I’ve done since most of my friends don’t care...
I am pretty much done painting; just the hinges, some misc parts and aprons left. The burnt exhaust valve is fixed and the engine is reassembled, painted and back in the frame. I still need to paint the valve cover. Replaced rear main, inspected lower end and replaced oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket and side cover gasket. I have gotten most of the dash switches and pads reassembled. Plan is to get the tub back on the frame Tuesday. Before that, I figured it’d be easier to get the rear brake lines installed so I made new ones and they are ready to go on. Today, I’ve been installing some of the new weatherstrip: rear swing out doors, trans hump and rear hatch. I also got the rear hatch all reassembled and the glass in. 71 rear glass rubber is NLA so I ordered some bulk length with near identical specs online. I used 3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive and joined the ends after cutting to length and let it set overnight. Got it in this morning and I’m very pleased with the result. View attachment 2542986View attachment 2542987View attachment 2542988View attachment 2542989

I guess I haven’t updated here in awhile. I’ve been getting a ton done but it all seemed small and inconsequential, but I guess I’m keeping this updated for my own future reference as much as just a spot to show what I’ve done since most of my friends don’t care...
I am pretty much done painting; just the hinges, some misc parts and aprons left. The burnt exhaust valve is fixed and the engine is reassembled, painted and back in the frame. I still need to paint the valve cover. Replaced rear main, inspected lower end and replaced oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket and side cover gasket. I have gotten most of the dash switches and pads reassembled. Plan is to get the tub back on the frame Tuesday. Before that, I figured it’d be easier to get the rear brake lines installed so I made new ones and they are ready to go on. Today, I’ve been installing some of the new weatherstrip: rear swing out doors, trans hump and rear hatch. I also got the rear hatch all reassembled and the glass in. 71 rear glass rubber is NLA so I ordered some bulk length with near identical specs online. I used 3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive and joined the ends after cutting to length and let it set overnight. Got it in this morning and I’m very pleased with the result. View attachment 2542986View attachment 2542987View attachment 2542988View attachment 2542989

Would you mind sharing your source for the rear weatherstripping? Our 71, also Spring Green, needs the hardtop glass replaced. Some vandals broke all the glass in the hard top during POwnership. So have to source that too. ThxMark

 

[Skreddy]

I used this for the seals for all of the hardtop pieces. Used 3M adhesive for the ends and clamped them over some flat bar for a day or two. They pulled apart a little as I installed them but was able to push the weatherstrip around a little and close up the gap. I used a ton of windex for lube.
M M SEALS E009-10F EPDM Dense... Amazon product ASIN B07NPVG5KZ

 

[Skreddy]

Feels like a lot of progress and so close! Front knuckle rebuilds are done, brakes are finished, adjusted, bled and done! Got the new exhaust finished today. I bought a muffler and a box of pipe and bends and tried to duplicate the factory exhaust but tuck up a little higher. Now that the front end and exhaust are done I finally felt I can start assembling front sheetmetal and not scratch the crap out of it all. So drivers fender and bib are loosely installed. Plugs, wires and coil will be here tomorrow so once those are in, the passenger fender can get installed, then line everything up and get it snugged down. Need to go through the e brake, clean up the steering wheel, replace driveline u joints and hook up all the rest of the wiring and I think it’s ready to make a whole lot of controlled explosions!

 

[-MaTTi-]

Please mount better way that pipe end, get some rubber hanger.

 

[Skreddy]

Please mount better way that pipe end, get some rubber hanger.

Just saw this response. As far as I know, that is factory? There is a rubber bushing where the L bracket mounts to the frame. I was just trying to do everything as factory as possible.

 

[Skreddy]

I got it fired up last night but not long enough to tune it. Found a gas leak in the soft line from tank to hardline right where it meets the hardline so shut it down and drained all the fuel. I’ll fix that today and get back to it. Fired right up but sounded rough. Timing was real close but the light was not flashing steadily so I may get new points; I used new ones that came with it, but they are from 1990. Gave them a little filing so we will see.

 

[Skreddy]

Cant get the rear output to quit leaking. Measured everything and it looks like the seal I got (2x) is about the exact diameter of the e brake drum shaft. No grooves or anything but I can’t find a seal for a reasonable price that has a smaller bore diameter so I am getting a speedo sleeve that should take up the difference.
but I started it up again after fixing the fuel leak (and filing points and adjusting idle screw, oh, and hooking up the idle solenoid) and it purrs great! Needs a little tuning and that output seal so I can run it longer.

 

[Skreddy]

I drove it! Still need to snug up some stuff but it starts up and idles really nice. Getting about 18” vacuum, my tach tool took a dump right when I hooked it up; let all it’s smoke out and I couldn’t get it back in so I’ll have to verify idle rpm later. Ran it through all gears and 4 lo. Temp, oil pressure gauges and speedo aren’t working so I need to look into those. Oil sender will light up a test light so that may be in the gauge. I’m excited!

 

[Curtice]

I’m leaking out too from the output in the center of the parking brake drum. Is that where you are leaking? I had some grooves so put a speedi sleeve on when I rebuilt it, but still leaking. Tomorrow I’m going to drain the transmission and take it apart to see. Kind of frustrating cause it’s all new seals newly rebuilt everything. So interested in yours.

 

[spotcruiser]

I’m leaking out too from the output in the center of the parking brake drum. Is that where you are leaking? I had some grooves so put a speedi sleeve on when I rebuilt it, but still leaking. Tomorrow I’m going to drain the transmission and take it apart to see. Kind of frustrating cause it’s all new seals newly rebuilt everything. So interested in yours.

Hey Curtice, if it's leaking from the center of the parking brake drum, it's leaking along the splines of the shaft past the stake nut and washer. A leak past the speedi-sleeve and output seal would show up as oil within the parking brake drum. You need to clean up the oil from the splines and drum really well and apply RTV under the washer and stake nut prior to torquing/staking.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. You are right it is leaking from the shaft, not out of the drum itself. I’ll try the RTV suggestion. Sorry to sidetrack Skreddy!

 

[greenbeasty]

I am in AWE !! One question tho, When do you sleep? I read thru the whole thread just now, getting sick about all those nice factory prices off my 70 that I threw away in the 90s.

 

[Skreddy]

Curtice; mine was leaking from the output seal itself. I did put some Toyota fipg on the drum side of the washer behind the nut that holds the brake drum on (that sounds confusing). My parking brake backing plate has a little factory divot in it so If the seal is leaking, it dribbles along the t-case side of the backing plate and down, not into the drum itself.
greenbeasty: I don’t sleep. I work rotating 12 hour shifts, 2 days on, 2 days off, 2 nights on, 2 days off, repeat. Usually after the nights I can’t sleep so I work on it until my family gets up. Then when I work days, I feel like I’m on nights so I can’t sleep so I go out a few hours after they go to sleep.

 

[Skreddy]

Oh.... and the Rona helped. No one wants to hang out so I just work, bug my wife and work on cars and bikes.

 

[softdrinkviking]

Skreddy, if you're still having some tuning issues, I would strongly recommend swapping out the points for a magnetic unit. I don't know if the petronix is still available, but one like that. It takes like 90% of the pain out of keeping it tuned.