Skreddy’s 71 Resto (2 Viewers)

Joined
Feb 4, 2020
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179
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Stanwood, WA
I put the tub on the chassis Tuesday. First time since 1990 it’s been bolted on. Used the energy suspension bushing kit and while it is complete, I have 2 complaints (for anyone considering it). First, the thin, rectangle pads that go on a rear support channel under the floor are held on with metal spring clips from the factory. The ES kit has plastic push in pins but they weren’t big enough to fill the stock hole so I reused the stock metal pins. The second issue was all the bolts seemed too short. All the way tight, the bolts are flush with the end of the nut. Most of them were a pain to get started because they’d just barely catch the threads in the nuts. But, it’s done and I’m pleased now.
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Joined
Aug 14, 2011
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Baltimore
Looks amazing! Seems like you've really come a long way.


All the way tight, the bolts are flush with the end of the nut. Most of them were a pain to get started because they’d just barely catch the threads in the nuts.

That would concern me as well. Did you use some thread locker or something?
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2011
Messages
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Baltimore
They are a locknut and the threads go just past the licking part so I think it’s good. Going to go snug them again in a couple weeks after everything settles in.
Oh yeah, come to think of it, all my body/suspension parts snugged down a lot more then I thought they would over time.
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2020
Messages
179
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Stanwood, WA
Lots of small things still happening. I got the rear doors and tire carrier on, as well as the top sides and rear hatch.
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Started re-installing the wiring harness since I feel like that’s needed before the heater and the rest of the dash stuff.
I started tearing down the steering column so I could change seals, paint and install it so I could get all the linkages hooked up and then trans tunnel on. Pretty sure the recommended steering box oil in the FSM is molasses right?
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Hoping to finish the wiring in the next couple days, get the doors on and get the engine all back together so I can put the fenders on and not worry about scratching the crap out of them. My wife is excited that soon her living room won’t be a Spring Green parts depot.
 
Joined
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Messages
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I did pull the engine (bad valve) and resealed it; checked all tolerances while I was in there. I got lucky and this was a stalled project. Really stalled. The PO sandblaster and painted the frame in 1990 then it sat in the corner of his climate controlled cabinet shop until I got it in August ‘20. Saved some time in that respect. Brakes were supposed to have been done at the same time but I’m planning on inspecting them. Clutch was replaced then and looks like it, but the 3 fingers were way out of adjustment.
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2020
Messages
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Stanwood, WA
I feel like technically at this point I should call this a refurbish or recondition as opposed to restoration. The reason is I’m kind of a purist in the term and I’ve taken some liberties with this one for various reasons that are not completely stock. One example is the door hardware. I used yellow zinc hardware on the doors and didn’t paint it (like later models) for ease of installation and adjustment.
Another reason is there are many parts I’ve cleaned up instead of replaced because there was either no benefit to replacement besides “new”, or because the original part had a little character that I don't think detracts from the rest of the cruiser. This horn button is an example of that. It was gouged and cracked and the PO used masking tape to hold it to the wheel when it was disassembled. The glue from the tape ate at the button material. Instead of replacing it, I sanded and polished it. It still has the cracks and a little pitting from the glue damage, but it is smooth, shiny and looking at it in the middle of the rest of the fresh paint, etc. will remind me I’m driving a 50 year old vehicle with history and stories.
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Joined
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Another reason is there are many parts I’ve cleaned up instead of replaced because there was either no benefit to replacement besides “new”, or because the original part had a little character that I don't think detracts from the rest of the cruiser.

I completely agree with the sentiment. My horn button is the way it was, and I didn't repaint my bumper, among other things. I see no reason to change those things for something you will be driving. I'm not knocking the pretty restos, but it's not the kind of thing I'm interested in; I like to keep things going and continue the story. I am into zero rust (or as close as possible) and a truck that drives well while looking more or less stock.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Stanwood, WA
I had a few days off and the in laws were over so I got a bit of a break from helping out with young kids therefore; lots of cruiser time! Knocking out lots of little stuff that really adds up. My in laws were really impressed with how the Jeep is coming along too!...
So I finished up the steering box reseal and install, pedal assembly blasted, repainted and installed, glove box door installed, cleaned up gauge cluster but not in yet, rear heater installed, rear bumperettes on, shift linkage all in and adjusted, engine splash guards all in place, doors and fenders assembled and waiting install, and one big, long, run on sentence. Now I’m working a stretch of nights so little will get done for a few days unless I can’t sleep.
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Joined
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Messages
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Stanwood, WA
Good, productive day today on the 40. I got the engine oil primed, distributor in and valve cover on. I also rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and cleaned and painted the brake booster. I didn’t have any paint that looked like the factory plating so I used a silver color I had that’s very close to the pewter. A couple days ago I painted and installed the intake and exhaust manifolds. Lots of stuff coming together on it and the end is in sight. Also finished up the gauges and installed and I recovered my oil lines.
For my future reference and anyone else; the cam has a hole in it to feed oil to the top end. I found that when cylinder #5 is at TDC on compression stroke, that’s when the oil hole was aligned and I got flow to the valve train. So here’s an answer if your ever searching for priming fj40 top end.
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Joined
Feb 4, 2020
Messages
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Stanwood, WA
I have been taking tons of pics but not updating my thread I guess. I rebuilt the carb and fuel pump and bled the clutch.
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I recovered my front seats over the weekend. Waiting on the straps and bumpers for jump seats before I can recover them. (Nevermind the kids racetrack).
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Was covering the seats and my 4 year old came in and was bored of her penguin tea party song and asked if I could put on her “rockin out” song. So for anyone else’s listening pleasure....

Clutch: Electric Worry
 
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Was covering the seats and my 4 year old came in and was bored of her penguin tea party song and asked if I could put on her “rockin out” song. So for anyone else’s listening pleasure....

This takes me back to when I first did a recover on mine. They are now totally thread-bare, and I'm thinking I will do the Coral Color, which I think is original, isn't it?

Clutch: Electric Worry
No way! I'm from Maryland, so I used to go see Clutch play all the time when I was a young. (Like mid 90s) I had no idea that anyone even knew who they were out of the state.
 
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Messages
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Stanwood, WA
My seats were gray originally. Seeing coral with the spring green now, I’d have gone that route if I hadn’t already bought the gray.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Gotcha. I have a tan colored '71 which had coral covers originally. When I bought it, they were grey, but I found partials of the coral material still attached under the covers when I changed them.

I think Toyota really just grabbed whatever off the shelf.

There's always next time. I think the covers probably last ten years tops (mine did more like 7).
 

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