Builds Skin Deep: 1963 FJ40 resto (1 Viewer)

[65swb45]

Bling.

 

[flee]

Bling.

Thank you, Mark!
It's coming together... slowly. I will drive over to visit when I'm 'done'.

 

[flee]

This sucker is going in:

Whew, what a relief!

 

[65swb45]

I always found it easier to do with the front bib off. I also like the extra wiggle room without the battery tray support.

 

[flee]

I always found it easier to do with the front bib off. I also like the extra wiggle room without the battery tray support.

Fair enough but with the hoist doing the lifting it was only a few more pumps to clear the bib. The bib bolts looked kinda rusty and crusty.
Even the tray was no big obstacle. I could have waited to torque the mount ears back on, though!

 

[65swb45]

Fair enough but with the hoist doing the lifting it was only a few more pumps to clear the bib. The bib bolts looked kinda rusty and crusty.
Even the tray was no big obstacle. I could have waited to torque the mount ears back on, though!

If you take a close look at the bib hinge, the underside has a slot in it so you can slide it out without unbolting it. Mil spec.

 

[flee]

If you take a close look at the bib hinge, the underside has a slot in it so you can slide it out without unbolting it. Mil spec.

Now you tell me!

 

[65swb45]

Now you tell me!

 

[flee]

Sheesh, where did the last 14 months go?
The engine has been running great for the last year. I did an R&R on the gas tank to fix the filler pipe connection to the tank. Much better!

I just got a seat rail kit from @cumminscruiser (thanks, Bill) and now I'm looking for some new seats to go with it.
The ones in this cruiser are not original and kinda beat. It has a Con-Fer bench in the back so no concern about keeping it stock looking.
What are some good aftermarket seats I should be considering?

 

[120mm]

The engine rebuild is (mostly) finished and sitting back in the garage. The fun begins!
View attachment 2498574

Every Land Cruiser needs to be built next to a Mustang convertible. Mine is a '67.

 

[igotta40]

I'm late seeing your progress, it looks great! Might be too late but a suggestion for you- you may regret having a black engine bay. Mine was for years, I finally brightened it up last summer.

 

[flee]

I'm late seeing your progress, it looks great! Might be too late but a suggestion for you- you may regret having a black engine bay. Mine was for years, I finally brightened it up last summer.

View attachment 2900410

View attachment 2900411

Ironically, your paint looks like my original color under the black and orange! The PO used the black to cover it in the engine bay.

 

[flee]

After last month's trip to Death Valley it was time to do something with the hard top I've had sitting under a tarp for the last year and a half.
A fellow mudder responded to my classified ad I'd placed looking for one and my daughter and I drove to AZ and brought it home in Dec, 2020.

It needed fiberglass repair, paint and rubber along with a few missing bits (see below) but was in pretty decent shape, otherwise.
The glass was still serviceable, too, as was much of the hardware. All rubber was the consistency of 60-year-old coal.

After removing the glass and all the hardware from the bifold doors I separated the sides from the top and the roof from the drip rail.

That's where the only real rust damage was located. I had 10' of new rail made at a local sheet metal shop for a very reasonable $20.

They had used galvanized sheet metal which added a few extra steps but nothing insurmountable.

Before cutting the rusted sections out I had drilled transfer holes in my 2"x3" frame so I could accurately locate the holes for rivets and new M6 t-nuts.
I had bought a very nice rivet squeezer and a bag of 5/32" round head rivets from Jay-Cee Sales who I highly recommend.

While all this was going on the sides and bifold doors got sandblasted and dropped off at a local paint shop I frequent. Because the 40 is painted
Hot Rod Burnt Orange from a previous life I wanted a color that could co-exist with that and work with a future repaint, too. I decided on
Wimbledon White for sides and the standard white for the top. I picked them up Friday and the glass was reinstalled with new rubber from Specter.

 

[flee]

The hardware on the bifold doors poses a few issues. I need to come up with 3 critical pieces and I could use some ideas to source them.
The pin and socket hinge on one side was missing and one of the rollers is damaged:

Any help finding replacements would be much appreciated.

 

[mrboatman]

The hardware on the bifold doors poses a few issues. I need to come up with 3 critical pieces and I could use some ideas to source them.
The pin and socket hinge on one side was missing and one of the rollers is damaged:View attachment 3015836
Any help finding replacements would be much appreciated.

Maybe a sliding glass door roller may be adaptable

 

[65swb45]

I think a few folks in the 25 forum have been down this road before you and worked out some solutions. Try searching there.

 

[flee]

Maybe a sliding glass door roller may be adaptable

I can probably fabricate new parts if I have to. I'm hoping I can find some used originals before I do.

YAY, this just in: SOR had a used (obviously) hinge pin and gudgeon in their immense boneyard!
They are now mine.

 

[flee]

Art for art's sake!

Apologies to the purists...

 

[middlecalf]

Sweet! I used roller bearings from McMaster Carr in place of those plastic rollers. Drilled and tapped holes for small bolts to hold them to the original bracket. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/#6383K14

 

[flee]

Sweet! I used roller bearings from McMaster Carr in place of those plastic rollers. Drilled and tapped holes for small bolts to hold them to the original bracket. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/#6383K14

Thanks, that's a very good idea. I have some plastic wheels on the way that oughta work but if not I'll go the ball bearing route.