Builds Shipwreck (1 Viewer)

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Your threads are very entertaining, you are very proud of your stuff.
 
Looking good mate is it thanks giving over there I do like turkey
 
it wasn't a good one, this year the bargain hunters were out (it used to be everything was closed on thanksgiving, so the roads were pretty much wide open)... now, it's a 3 1/2 hour drive to my parents, at hour 4 I turned around 1/2 way there, no accidents just idiots. So I spent 8 hours on the road to go less than 200 miles.... no turkey - but I did get prime rib, so it wasn't a complete wash, just 90% wash.
 
Very nice
 
Thanks guys.

The ring on the transfer case was originally supposed to be the way to bolt the transmission to the transfer case and it allows infinite rotation. If I drill out the tapped holes that were supposed to go to the transmission, I can rotate the transfer case to wherever I wish.... which made me think about flipping the transfer case for the Ford axle, but, I had to narrow both sides anyway, and the real estate on the driver's is as precious as the passenger side - however, the benefit of the passenger side is no whirling metal next to the oil filter and oil lines.
 
The thing you have to watch out for w/a HP44 with a pass side drop is the clearance between the driveshaft and the starter/bellhousing when the suspension was compressed. We were going to do a pass drop HP44 because a friend had done this. He did have to do some work so the shaft wouldn't hit the bellhousing. He was lucky & was able to do some grinding. Another guy had the same problem w/a pass side HP60. Both were SOA. We looked at the same issue when considering a YJ w/a pass drop HP44 SUA, & found it involved more than grinding to gain clearance. We figured it would require a fixed short stub driveshaft to to clear the starter/bellhousing, then a longer shaft to the pinion. We decided we didn't want to work that hard.
 
pb4ugo said:
The thing you have to watch out for w/a HP44 with a pass side drop is the clearance between the driveshaft and the starter/bellhousing when the suspension was compressed. We were going to do a pass drop HP44 because a friend had done this. He did have to do some work so the shaft wouldn't hit the bellhousing. He was lucky & was able to do some grinding. Another guy had the same problem w/a pass side HP60. Both were SOA. We looked at the same issue when considering a YJ w/a pass drop HP44 SUA, & found it involved more than grinding to gain clearance. We figured it would require a fixed short stub driveshaft to to clear the starter/bellhousing, then a longer shaft to the pinion. We decided we didn't want to work that hard.
Click to expand...

I am concerned about this as well, but I have a few tools to hopefully resolve it:
- I can cut the floor to move the transfer case up
- I can rotate the transfer case down ....
- I'm moving the pumpkin as far to the passenger side as possible while still having 2.36" to put the link mount in place
- I went 60" wide so I could move that mount and the pinion further outboard. I also would freely admit to considering making this a hybrid differential with GM spindles (they're a bit narrower).
- I figure the frame is going to be my issue...
- it is kind of ironic that I have a HP 44, I really don't need the high pinion since I'm not going with that tall of a lift and the front driveshaft is pretty long.

but we'll see, I'm not afraid to cut to make it all fit...
 
watrob said:
Think you need to do a little rust repair on that chassis?
Click to expand...

you mean the ragged edge where someone torched the cross member out? there is only a bit of surface rust on the frame. When this is done, I'm going to do the same thing I do on Corvettes - weld the frame solid. In addition, it will all be boxed to all suspension attachment points...
 
Any updates? I enjoyed reading what you were doing.
 
not quite... why would I post anything here when I'm going to get into Piratesque arguments over stuff that doesn't matter? On Pirate the mod called the thread boring - so I stopped posting there, because heaven knows I'd hate to bore them. Here, apparently I need to be sure to double check whether or not the axles I got were worth $800 or not before I post on here. After all, I got threatened with the "we'll just move your thread to the general topic area." Or, when someone asks a question, I need to run it by the mods to make certain it's engineer-level correct. Frankly, this is what I do for fun; and I don't need the headache. As I've said before, I am blogging this build on other forums where there's a bit of respect; it's not terribly hard to find.

plus... it's not like I'm doing anything new - there's a billion threads of people putting links, chevy 350s, and floater axles in FJ40s... nothing new here, moving along.
 
Bummer, I was looking forward to seeing what progress you have made. I haven't had too much trouble posting here personally. Some have different opinions, but eventually I have to make the decision and live with the outcome-not them. Plus if I do something wrong fabrication wise, its only metal-it can be fixed. If someone bothers you, just ignore it man, or give them the benefit of the doubt that their having a bad day-we all do sometimes, otherwise you could be missing out on some good advice and me and others could miss out on your build and advice you have to offer us. :)
 
I don't care about differences of opinions... I care when moderators come in here and give me grief about whether or not I got a good deal on axles. It does take some work to compile and write these things; and when I have to guess as to what content is or isn't going to give me grief - that's when I say "enough" .... with that said, I'll relent, but it's with reluctance... and could be quite temporary.

I'll do a few catch up posts after today's post
got a few more parts in today.... and noticed an issue; fortunately, the digital camera picture picked up something that's impossible to see IRL.



so I went to put the new end in, and it's tight.... and impossibly tight on the other end... wtf?

this gave me the clue as to what's up

if you look at the rough cut one, it's thicker walled than the one on the left

but in this picture you can see the shadow of where it's flowed together.... I have to cut another 2" at least off the tubes; so I'll be able to press the end in without machining... yay
 
I've been waiting for parts and supplies, so I rolled my Land Rover D2 back into the shop to try to make some noise from it... it's back outside because I have to wait for parts again... this will be a common theme for awhile.

the transfer case is basically where it's going to be... I've been having issue with the "why don't you justs" - so the front axle isn't narrowed yet... with that said, I pointed out to my current shop that I can send it to Currie, if they're not capable of doing it... that was the proper words to motivate because they "decided to give it another go", I hope - frankly, I expect it to look exactly the same as before and I'll be doing it myself... oh well, it doesn't save money because I have to buy more tools.





so back to the headers, I got the stainless tube so I can construct... of course, I also came down with the flu so breathing grinding dust is not something I'm going to do ... but at least I got a start


the steering column was supposed to go into my 50 Buick, but when I got it, I expected to put a manual transmission in the car... saner heads prevailed, so I'm going to put the old column back in and do a column shift for the automatic


if you look closely, you'll see I've cut the header in half


on this side, I'm still flipping a coin on what to do... I could either snake a 3" pipe over the frame, or taper the header to the other side of the frame...

 
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