euclid
SILVER Star
See post #29 in this thread.
Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tofudebeest
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- Thread starter
- #322
Thanks for the link. I know...I just want the option of a quick release, not just an extension.
euclid
SILVER Star
Read the thread again. They need to be extended to do their job. You don't need any kind of quick release for the rears. Pull the bolts out, replace them with pins. When you go wheeling, pull the pins out. I use a short bungie cord to hold my sway bar off of rocks.
- Thread starter
- #324
DUDE......I know. Thank you for the guidance though.
euclid
SILVER Star
K. Interweb communication breakdown. Thought you weren't gettin it.
It's all good!
It's all good!
- Thread starter
- #326
Updates
What is the OEM accessory that I do not have that uses the white plug socket normally hiding under the center console?
I'd like to use it and mate it to the blue plug which is....
hopefully gonna power this... (Thanks Scott, that was an uncalled for and much appreciated random gift.)
Via...Sheila's surplus cigarette lighter socket, which I installed for an in-console accessory plug. Nifty, huh?
And with more of that aluminum diamondplate, I made a new floor for the bolts to hang onto to mount the console. I bet most 60 series have big ol' washers to reinforce those cracked mounting bolt holes. This was my upgraded solution. I used a piece of paper as a template and cut that rectangle in about 3 minutes.
Pro Comps shocks up front, furnished gratis (thank you!) by Dynosoar, which I painted hammered black Rustoleum. Rides MUCH better with shocks than without!!! Now I need to get and install rear shocks.
Sheila Vs. Tofu, different season, different truck, same powertrain, same location.
Nobody can tell me the square lights are inferior to the round. In my opinion, the four square are tougher looking than the round, even if they do resemble an old Chevy van's. The other 62 upgrades are just gravy.
What is the OEM accessory that I do not have that uses the white plug socket normally hiding under the center console?
I'd like to use it and mate it to the blue plug which is....
hopefully gonna power this... (Thanks Scott, that was an uncalled for and much appreciated random gift.)
Via...Sheila's surplus cigarette lighter socket, which I installed for an in-console accessory plug. Nifty, huh?
And with more of that aluminum diamondplate, I made a new floor for the bolts to hang onto to mount the console. I bet most 60 series have big ol' washers to reinforce those cracked mounting bolt holes. This was my upgraded solution. I used a piece of paper as a template and cut that rectangle in about 3 minutes.
Pro Comps shocks up front, furnished gratis (thank you!) by Dynosoar, which I painted hammered black Rustoleum. Rides MUCH better with shocks than without!!! Now I need to get and install rear shocks.
Sheila Vs. Tofu, different season, different truck, same powertrain, same location.
Nobody can tell me the square lights are inferior to the round. In my opinion, the four square are tougher looking than the round, even if they do resemble an old Chevy van's. The other 62 upgrades are just gravy.
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euclid
SILVER Star
Truck looks good.
Only accessory that I can think of right now that ran to the center console is the saharan spec fridge. Have you tested it to see if there is power to it, and if it's switched power or constant?
Why not just power the gps off the same source as your accessory power already in place?
Only accessory that I can think of right now that ran to the center console is the saharan spec fridge. Have you tested it to see if there is power to it, and if it's switched power or constant?
Why not just power the gps off the same source as your accessory power already in place?
- Thread starter
- #328
Thank you. The paint is beat on the hood and roof though... Needs a respray.
Hmmm. I'll check it. I do want it to be fused...
Just cause it is plugged in there does not mean it is powered, that was merely for the photo, if I am understanding your quesiton correctly. The GPS is currently powered from the normal cig socket on the dash, or if unplugged, from a rechargable internal battery. I could also get power to this new socket by splicing into the wire that leads to the heater switch, but I'd prefer a dedicated line, the one with the white plug...
As an aside, I took one photo of the GPS with my house on the map, which fortunately I was awake enough to realize was not too bright to post up here, so I went to the main menu for the photo which did get posted...
Hmmm. I'll check it. I do want it to be fused...
Just cause it is plugged in there does not mean it is powered, that was merely for the photo, if I am understanding your quesiton correctly. The GPS is currently powered from the normal cig socket on the dash, or if unplugged, from a rechargable internal battery. I could also get power to this new socket by splicing into the wire that leads to the heater switch, but I'd prefer a dedicated line, the one with the white plug...
As an aside, I took one photo of the GPS with my house on the map, which fortunately I was awake enough to realize was not too bright to post up here, so I went to the main menu for the photo which did get posted...
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Lookin good tofu
I must say, I am with the others, skip the respray, wheel it, and love it
Paul
I must say, I am with the others, skip the respray, wheel it, and love it
Paul
- Thread starter
- #331
I'll wheel it a little, nothing too aggressive. I will build the bumper and sliders, and I'll do the respray myself... It will get new paint, there's nothing to consider.
- Thread starter
- #332
Welded a 2 1/4' (in and out) Thrush (welded) muffler ($30 from Advance Discount) onto an adaptor and then to my OEM 2" exhaust. I do not remember Sheila being this muffled-sounding, but it has been quite some time since I have heard this motor with an intact muffler. With some sound dampening on the floor, this rig is gonna be downright quiet.
BTW, this 2H motor DEFINITELY is smoother on B100. My everyday carpool passenger who did not know I recently put a tank of bio in Tofu, but who had become very used to this truck running petro-diesel commented on it being much smoother running and sounding.
I replaced the brake booster last night too. No audible vacuum leak anymore, but I think the vacuum sensor is shot. That's gotta be a super cheap part to replace...
Tofudebeest now has about 1,600 miles on her since her first test drive. So far, so good.
Next thing: extend my rear swaybar links and throw on some rear shocks.
I still want to know (because nobody has answered) what is a specific part number for a decent rear shock for a 62 with a 3" lift. My tire shop could not help.
BTW, this 2H motor DEFINITELY is smoother on B100. My everyday carpool passenger who did not know I recently put a tank of bio in Tofu, but who had become very used to this truck running petro-diesel commented on it being much smoother running and sounding.
I replaced the brake booster last night too. No audible vacuum leak anymore, but I think the vacuum sensor is shot. That's gotta be a super cheap part to replace...
Tofudebeest now has about 1,600 miles on her since her first test drive. So far, so good.
Next thing: extend my rear swaybar links and throw on some rear shocks.
I still want to know (because nobody has answered) what is a specific part number for a decent rear shock for a 62 with a 3" lift. My tire shop could not help.
- Thread starter
- #333
1) OOPS!
1) Sway bar links extended, (but not welded yet).
1) Sway bar links extended, (but not welded yet).
- Thread starter
- #334
I'll snap a photo of my new, improved sway bar links, finished and installed, maybe this evening.
In other news:
My radiator had been leaking a wee bit, apparently, via the original cap, which when pressure tested would not hold more than 7 or 8 psi. It is supposed to hold to 13. So.... I overheated on Monday, but not badly, and only for about 5-7 miles (less than 10 minutes, much of which was at rest at stoplights, so not cooking). Steam was coming from the coolant hose at the back of the motor, as well as from the rad cap, and nowhere else. The antifreeze was very rusty, what was left of it anyway. The impeller in my water pump was badly corroded too, so that got replaced. And guess what was totally missing from my system...
A thermostat. YIKES!!! So I put one in. A hell of an idea, huh?
Also, my water temp sender ground wire, when grounded to something other than that sender, makes my fuel cut off relay (I think that which relay this is...it is black and square) go clickety-click. I have to assume it was wired incorrectly, which would explain why my temp gauge needle was as dead as a whiskey dick. Now I just have to find what wire should go to the sender and what should go to the relay.
Also, I converted to R134A, pressure tested the a/c system, changed out my compressor oil, put in all new O rings, fittings, etc. Just in time for the FL Spring/Summer/Fall. I can't wait to see my snot freeze.
I lied. All of this work (mentioned in this post) was done by a mechanic, hence the lack of photos.
In other news:
My radiator had been leaking a wee bit, apparently, via the original cap, which when pressure tested would not hold more than 7 or 8 psi. It is supposed to hold to 13. So.... I overheated on Monday, but not badly, and only for about 5-7 miles (less than 10 minutes, much of which was at rest at stoplights, so not cooking). Steam was coming from the coolant hose at the back of the motor, as well as from the rad cap, and nowhere else. The antifreeze was very rusty, what was left of it anyway. The impeller in my water pump was badly corroded too, so that got replaced. And guess what was totally missing from my system...
A thermostat. YIKES!!! So I put one in. A hell of an idea, huh?
Also, my water temp sender ground wire, when grounded to something other than that sender, makes my fuel cut off relay (I think that which relay this is...it is black and square) go clickety-click. I have to assume it was wired incorrectly, which would explain why my temp gauge needle was as dead as a whiskey dick. Now I just have to find what wire should go to the sender and what should go to the relay.
Also, I converted to R134A, pressure tested the a/c system, changed out my compressor oil, put in all new O rings, fittings, etc. Just in time for the FL Spring/Summer/Fall. I can't wait to see my snot freeze.
I lied. All of this work (mentioned in this post) was done by a mechanic, hence the lack of photos.
- Thread starter
- #335
The extended sway bar links, all welded up, painted and installed.
- Thread starter
- #336
The A/C is weak and cool, not cold, after a few weeks. I'll bring it in and see if it was leaking refrigerant.
Luckily, it is still April, and despite it being FL, it is not oppressively hot yet...
Luckily, it is still April, and despite it being FL, it is not oppressively hot yet...
Sweet links.
- Thread starter
- #338
Thanks. Easy as pie to make.
Greg... See those? You do it the same way?
Greg... See those? You do it the same way?
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #340
Mine are prettier. 
No need to extend the fronts?
No need to extend the fronts?
