fj40charles
SILVER Star
I'll bet Georg has one.
Samurai stretch, auto,doubler to dana 300, stickies (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter lenross1
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I'll bet Georg has one.
fj40charles
SILVER Star
You can make you own. Nitrogen cylinder, high pressure Inert gas regulator, hydraulic hose, and air chuck.
You can see the picture on the pirate tech above.
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Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY :: CO2 & Nitrogen Kits :: Poly Performance CO2 & Nitrogen Kits :: Synergy Suspension Nitrogen Fill Adapter - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, Cu
On the 700 mount, Georg is a tranny guy. Get him to toss one in the stack he is sending you.
- Thread starter
- #44
That's it ! Im giving this shunt up and taking up chess.
what ya say .? Lets start the cottonland chess club
what ya say .? Lets start the cottonland chess club
- Thread starter
- #46
Got an odd question for you guys?
Does anyone know of a place that would work on postal jeep transmissions locally?
The reason I ask is the the TH180c auto transmission I am putting in the samurai also came in the postal jeeps.
Georg pass on this tidbit of info to me.. The shop that does this should be pretty good at rebuilding these then.
I don't know if I need a rebuild yet, but want to be prepared in case I do.
Does anyone know of a place that would work on postal jeep transmissions locally?
The reason I ask is the the TH180c auto transmission I am putting in the samurai also came in the postal jeeps.
Georg pass on this tidbit of info to me.. The shop that does this should be pretty good at rebuilding these then.
I don't know if I need a rebuild yet, but want to be prepared in case I do.
I dind't know WHERe you were going with that Lenny........let's just steal a postal truck from the shop down the street from the Cherokee......then youll have a new one!
- Thread starter
- #48
Thats part of your re initiation.. get to it.
I'll get right on that!
- Thread starter
- #50
Got some extra motivation. I need to To get the samurai to a point where I can move it out of the shop so I can have an car lift installed.
I am tired of working on the trucks while on my back and dread welding while lying on my back as well.
I am picking up tubing today and my Heims from ruff stuff should be here by the weekend. I pretty much had them build me a 4 link kit To speed up the process. I wanted to build everything from scratch (you guys know how much I love my plasma ) but this will save me a shunt load of time.
I hope to be finished with 4 link and drivetrain swap in time for GSMTR.
I'm gonna need some help guys..
I am tired of working on the trucks while on my back and dread welding while lying on my back as well.
I am picking up tubing today and my Heims from ruff stuff should be here by the weekend. I pretty much had them build me a 4 link kit To speed up the process. I wanted to build everything from scratch (you guys know how much I love my plasma ) but this will save me a shunt load of time.
I hope to be finished with 4 link and drivetrain swap in time for GSMTR.
I'm gonna need some help guys..
A lift would be too cool Lenny. I have always wanted one and you have the right set up for it in your shop. I see more wrenching sessions on Saddle Creek Ct. in the future...
- Thread starter
- #52
little update.
welded frame. got all my tube today.
I was talking to I believe Brian at Ruff Stuff. he is the unlucky soul who has been taking my order and answering my questions about double triangulated 4 links.
Here is what i have so far on the basics of a 4 link from what i gathered over the past few months
-lower links no longer than 40 inches
- upper links need to be around 70% of the length of the lower links
-Try to get links as close to 40 degrees as possible
-vertical separation between the upper and lower links should be 25% of tire diameter (9.5 inches for my set up)
here is what brian said that threw me .
the upper links where they connect to the chassis crossmember need to be 12 inches apart. If thats absolutely needed then my links will be no where near 35 degrees. I would have to run much shorter links .
My preliminary mock up measurements for link lengths are 37 inches for lower and just under 26 inches for the uppers.
do the upper links need to be that far apart at the chassis?
I would think the more triangulation i get the better ( links closer to 40 degrees) that would entail moving the mounts closer and or shortening the links..
someone throw their wisdom my way
welded frame. got all my tube today.
I was talking to I believe Brian at Ruff Stuff. he is the unlucky soul who has been taking my order and answering my questions about double triangulated 4 links.
Here is what i have so far on the basics of a 4 link from what i gathered over the past few months
-lower links no longer than 40 inches
- upper links need to be around 70% of the length of the lower links
-Try to get links as close to 40 degrees as possible
-vertical separation between the upper and lower links should be 25% of tire diameter (9.5 inches for my set up)
here is what brian said that threw me .
the upper links where they connect to the chassis crossmember need to be 12 inches apart. If thats absolutely needed then my links will be no where near 35 degrees. I would have to run much shorter links .
My preliminary mock up measurements for link lengths are 37 inches for lower and just under 26 inches for the uppers.
do the upper links need to be that far apart at the chassis?
I would think the more triangulation i get the better ( links closer to 40 degrees) that would entail moving the mounts closer and or shortening the links..
someone throw their wisdom my way
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Saying something definitive like "it must be 12"" is BS.
Triangulation centers the axle. Keeps it under the truck.
Not 12"....worked awesome
Not 12" works great
I have the measurements for this if you want them
Triangulation centers the axle. Keeps it under the truck.
Not 12"....worked awesome
Not 12" works great
I have the measurements for this if you want them
- Thread starter
- #54
Saying something definitive like "it must be 12"" is BS.
Triangulation centers the axle. Keeps it under the truck.
Not 12"....worked awesome
Not 12" works great
I have the measurements for this if you want them
sure. I wouldnt mind to take a look
Got some extra motivation. I need to To get the samurai to a point where I can move it out of the shop so I can have an car lift installed.
I am tired of working on the trucks while on my back and dread welding while lying on my back as well.
I am picking up tubing today and my Heims from ruff stuff should be here by the weekend. I pretty much had them build me a 4 link kit To speed up the process. I wanted to build everything from scratch (you guys know how much I love my plasma ) but this will save me a shunt load of time.
I hope to be finished with 4 link and drivetrain swap in time for GSMTR.
I'm gonna need some help guys..
Just Say When!!! I need some more good home cookin!
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I think the best thing for you to do is head over to Pat's to pull measurements off the rear of his buggy.
His is one of the best working buggies for crawling in the country. I have seen it do some things.....
Also, Joel's Jimmy's 4x4 buggy is over there. It has a 100% proven 4-link design on it. Those buggies work awesome as well.
Putting your eyes and a tape measure on two awesome buggies is something that would help you a ton to get your arms wrapped around this deal
His is one of the best working buggies for crawling in the country. I have seen it do some things.....
Also, Joel's Jimmy's 4x4 buggy is over there. It has a 100% proven 4-link design on it. Those buggies work awesome as well.
Putting your eyes and a tape measure on two awesome buggies is something that would help you a ton to get your arms wrapped around this deal
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
didcha try running your numbers thru the 4-link calculator? that should help. they guys at ruffstuff don't necessarily know it all......that's why they're in the business of selling bent metal parts that roughly fit ( hence the name ruffstuff )and not building rigs. 
jk, i like dan and his crew, have known him since before he started ruffstuff and we get a lot of parts from them.
as for the mount, energy suspension makes a great urethane version which i keep in stock. we use them a lot. holler if you need one.
"trans" not "trany" expert out.
georg
jk, i like dan and his crew, have known him since before he started ruffstuff and we get a lot of parts from them.
as for the mount, energy suspension makes a great urethane version which i keep in stock. we use them a lot. holler if you need one.
"trans" not "trany" expert out.
georg
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
back to your shifters.......
how about triple sticking it? i see no reason why you could'nt make your own setup. i have a bunch of twin stick parts here. making triples won't be an issue.
just a thought.
fwiw, i'm not a huge fan of cable shifters. the cables they use are either too flimsy or so large in diameter that they bind up if you run them at any kind of angle at all. add corosion to the mix and they love to get stuck. i guess it all depends on the detent pressure and the angle the cable would need to operate at........
georg
how about triple sticking it? i see no reason why you could'nt make your own setup. i have a bunch of twin stick parts here. making triples won't be an issue.
just a thought.
fwiw, i'm not a huge fan of cable shifters. the cables they use are either too flimsy or so large in diameter that they bind up if you run them at any kind of angle at all. add corosion to the mix and they love to get stuck. i guess it all depends on the detent pressure and the angle the cable would need to operate at........
georg
- Thread starter
- #59
didcha try running your numbers thru the 4-link calculator? that should help. they guys at ruffstuff don't necessarily know it all......that's why they're in the business of selling bent metal parts that roughly fit ( hence the name ruffstuff )and not building rigs.
jk, i like dan and his crew, have known him since before he started ruffstuff and we get a lot of parts from them.
as for the mount, energy suspension makes a great urethane version which i keep in stock. we use them a lot. holler if you need one.
"trans" not "trany" expert out.
georg
Mount
I need a mount that will fit a center to center measurement of 5 1/8 inches . Bolt diameter is 3/8 inch.
Shifters
I had to remove the stock shifter mount on the Dana 300 to fit the doubler.
To use non cable shifter I will have to figure some kinda of stick mount. I would like them all next to each other if at all possible. Keep it nice and tight. Don't have at lot of room to work with anyway.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
the mount is a non-issue.
the shifters should'nt be a big deal. can you do a mock-up of the trans and doubler so i can see what we're working with?
georg
the shifters should'nt be a big deal. can you do a mock-up of the trans and doubler so i can see what we're working with?
georg
