Build Salted Pork fj55 family wagon build

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I finally got to drive the land cruiser around some! its much more sturdy feeling since replacing rockers! the holly carb was annoying me so I put the weber 38 back on and I hate to say its a ton better. I still need to do work on the tcase but I can drive it in 2wd. I have my spring break coming up and I think I am going to tackle the tcase.

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When my Weber worked well it worked great.
Felt like a sports tractor.
The Fuji carb is just globally better but it doesn’t have the same jazz…
 
When my Weber worked well it worked great.
Felt like a sports tractor.
The Fuji carb is just globally better but it doesn’t have the same jazz…
yeah I dont mind the weber carbs. I have rebuild 2 32/36 carbs and this weber 38. the 38 is kinda tricky to tune compaired to the 32/36. the 38 I have has two mixture screws and a idle screw. My only really complaint about the 38 is I have an electric choke where id rather have a manual choke. the little kit for the manual choke is like 30 or 40 bucks. I thought I had one somewhere I gotta look and see If I can find it. the 32/36 in the sammy has a water choke. its kinda cool and works really well.

I think eventually Ill get a fuji carb from city racer but for now I am happy with the weber. its also way better than the holley at slower speeds. the holley was great for accelerating and at 55 but chugged alot at idle to 30mph and I could never get it tuned correct for that. I think the nozzles were not correct even though I found the information in another thread.
 
yeah I dont mind the weber carbs. I have rebuild 2 32/36 carbs and this weber 38. the 38 is kinda tricky to tune compaired to the 32/36. the 38 I have has two mixture screws and a idle screw. My only really complaint about the 38 is I have an electric choke where id rather have a manual choke. the little kit for the manual choke is like 30 or 40 bucks. I thought I had one somewhere I gotta look and see If I can find it. the 32/36 in the sammy has a water choke. its kinda cool and works really well.

I think eventually Ill get a fuji carb from city racer but for now I am happy with the weber. its also way better than the holley at slower speeds. the holley was great for accelerating and at 55 but chugged alot at idle to 30mph and I could never get it tuned correct for that. I think the nozzles were not correct even though I found the information in another thread.
I actually miss the electric choke of the Weber.
 
I actually miss the electric choke of the Weber.
I just hate that I have a choke cable installed on my dash not being used haha. But also I dont mind using the choke.
 
alright just ordered some parts that hopfully will get here before my spring break from teaching starts. I ordered rear wheel cylinder rebuilds from cruiser teq and a transfer case front output shaft needle bearing that I want to have if that turns out to be the issue. I also ordered some goodies from city racer like a new coolant temp sensor, a transfer case shift nob because I some how melted the the one I got on the truck, It probibly was laying on the pan when I was welding or somthing, a steering wheel center screw because one of mine is mega stripped and a valve clearence sticker for the side of the valve cover. (I like having that written because I can never remember the clearances.) I also ordered from peirce manifolds a new air cleaner assymbly and air cleaner for the weber since the air cleaner thats on it is pretty much garbage and not doing a whole lot.

Transfer Case Front Output Needle Bearing -​

 
alright just ordered some parts that hopfully will get here before my spring break from teaching starts. I ordered rear wheel cylinder rebuilds from cruiser teq and a transfer case front output shaft needle bearing that I want to have if that turns out to be the issue. I also ordered some goodies from city racer like a new coolant temp sensor, a transfer case shift nob because I some how melted the the one I got on the truck, It probibly was laying on the pan when I was welding or somthing, a steering wheel center screw because one of mine is mega stripped and a valve clearence sticker for the side of the valve cover. (I like having that written because I can never remember the clearances.) I also ordered from peirce manifolds a new air cleaner assymbly and air cleaner for the weber since the air cleaner thats on it is pretty much garbage and not doing a whole lot.

Transfer Case Front Output Needle Bearing -​

I just found a K&N for the weber you can have for shipping. Fits the standard housing I guess?
 
I just found a K&N for the weber you can have for shipping. Fits the standard housing I guess?
Yeah I would be interested in that! I bought one but its not a K&N one. But also I really needed the metal parts of the air cleaner. shoot you a pm with my address. and just send me what it would cost.
 

but I'd do ALOT before spending on this
 

but I'd do ALOT before spending on this
yeah. its really cool. Id like to get alot of other things done first. but I think id rather do this mod over mounting a power steering pump and drilling and welding stuff. I have things on the list first for sure - new windshield and gasket (my windsheild has a rock strike and I dont think it would survive removal), discs up front, seat reupholster, paint and maybe a small lift, are all ahead of it for sure.
 
So I gotta plan this spring break. I am going to first try and repair my tcase. figure out what the issue is. I have the spare tcase that everything looks good in if I have to pull the whole thing. I also have a e-brake rebuild kit I will use with a sleeve I think if I need it. The next plan with salted pork is to start installing a header that I have. I am keeping the stock stuff in case I ever find a pto winch. The stock exhaust is missing 1 of the 3 studs in the collector. I never drilled and tapped it because I wanted to get the old girl running. but now I am over the slight exhaust leak there so the header should fix it.

the next thing is I have a wheel cylinder that is leaking a bit. not enough to all leak out from sitting since November though but enough where I added fluid. planning on taking them apart and rebuilding them. at least the passenger front. but I also know one of the adjusters in the rear is stuck. so Ill probibly rebuild that too. or all 8 of them. I got to start cutting and welding on the rear quarters and under the tail gate soon too.

then after break into the summer -

I want to possibly replace my front windshield with a new gasket and glass, replace the tailgate window rubber, replace the rear passenger door static window glass, and the rear quarter window weather stripping. I gotta start buying stuff there. going to be pricy.
then in the not so distant future I will buy paint. I am really excited for that.



Also side quest update:
My students and I got the engine of the isuzu pup taken apart. we got a new timing chain tensioner on the front of the engine, put 4 new intake valves, installed the head and torqued it down. Then we reinstalled the oil pump and front cover. Everything is in time with tdc on #4 according to the manual I have. The engine rotates and no tight spots. with the thumb test there is compression on every cylinder. we are about to replace the rear main today and put on the oil pan gasket, then put the flywheel and clutch components back. then we will instal the trans. I think thats where we will get before the end of today and where we will stop before the students release for break.
 
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some randomness saw a pretty cool first gen bronco that was not overly lifted, over restored or roached out. It was just a good running maintained example. snapped this shot of the dog.


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Here is the side quest: the Isuzu engine is timed, rotates 360 degrease without tough spots (with plugs out) you can feel compression doing the thumb test on every cylinder. Not pictured but we did instal the intake. Its easier to get the lower intake nuts on with the engine out I have learned. and it has a new timing chain tensioner. Things left: install the oil pan, use modified screwdriver to pump up the oil pressure, install fly wheel, clutch, pressure plate, instal trans, and then jab it all back in. then of course is the little things like setting timing and installing wiring and carb.
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Looks great. It takes 720 degrees to go thru all 4 strokes of the engine.
 
Looks great. It takes 720 degrees to go thru all 4 strokes of the engine.
you are right, I guess I should not say degrees. the engine goes through the motions as it should as you crank the crank shaft bolt. I guess you do one rotation (360 degrees) of the crank and the cam is half way out from TDC on #4. another full rotation of the crank the cam is back to TDC on #4
 
you are right, I guess I should not say degrees. the engine goes through the motions as it should as you crank the crank shaft bolt. I guess you do one rotation (360 degrees) of the crank and the cam is half way out from TDC on #4. another full rotation of the crank the cam is back to TDC on #4
Everything in an engine is measured in degrees. The pistons are connected to a rotating assembly. In a 4 stroke engine every 720* of crank rotation the cam rotates 1 time 360*. In your 4 cylinder a spark plug fires every 180* of crank rotation. in a 6 cylnder the plug fires every 120* of crank rotation, 8 cylinder every 90*.
 
Everything in an engine is measured in degrees. The pistons are connected to a rotating assembly. In a 4 stroke engine every 720* of crank rotation the cam rotates 1 time 360*. In your 4 cylinder a spark plug fires every 180* of crank rotation. in a 6 cylnder the plug fires every 120* of crank rotation, 8 cylinder every 90*.
I’m sure Robert and his assistants can find a way for it to operate in 2 stroke mode. 🤪
 
I’m sure Robert and his assistants can find a way for it to operate in 2 stroke mode. 🤪
haha you are not wrong! speaking of two stroke mode.... a dream find would be a suzuki LJ20. I saw one for sale recently. the way gas prices are going I am going to probably have use the sammy much of the summer.
 
haha you are not wrong! speaking of two stroke mode.... a dream find would be a suzuki LJ20. I saw one for sale recently. the way gas prices are going I am going to probably have use the sammy much of the summer.
For a 2 stroke there is always the Trabant. Worked with a guy that was born on the wrong side of the wall in Berlin. His first car was a Trabant, told stories of pulling the engine out by hand without a hoist.
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I will soon be riding my bicycle everywhere if this keeps going like it is...
 
Well there is the leak. as stated previously I was loosing fluid very slowly but it was disappearing. I noticed the classic drip on the inside of the tire when the 55 sat while I was welding. this drum was also a bear to get off. I have new shoes that I can use. I also rebuilt the cylenders. Unfortunately I broke one of the two brake lines going to the cylinders. But I was able to snag some brake line from the little garage here on the island. I also bought 25 feet on slamazon incase it happens again. I also figured out the 4x4 issue... it was not an expensive fix but it could have been and it was 100% my fault. the pinion nut came loose in the front diff. I guess I did not strike the nut hard enough to keep it from walking off. I retorqed it (a bear) and made sure it had the correct preload. then struck the crap out of that nut to bend it to keep it from walking off. I pulled the rear off too and made sure it was still good. Luckly I drove it around with the front hubs unlocked. I did drain the oil and no metal.


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