Build Salt wagon My first fj40 (build)

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Grayscale said:
You have an early 2F with domed pistons?
forum.ih8mud.com

2f cylinder heads?

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
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I am waiting on a picture of the casting number. Listing said it was for the 76-80. if it works for my application great but if not Ill find it a home. I am aware of the later model heads not compatible with the earlier 2f blocks.
 
I am trying to stay in the mindset with this head gasket issue that its an opportunity while its down to fix and repair a few things that I have been procrastinating on. like the windshield gasket, and the drivers rocker. and a few other things little things like getting rid of some shift linkage slop. I am also very curious to what I will find when I pull the head. Kinda hoping It will be obvious what the failure point is but I am normally not that lucky. I also will take this current head to a machine shop too.
 
should work for my applications I think.

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Toyota Parts Deal suggests that 11101-61031 works for '76 to 8/80 (domed pistons as per SOR)? Maybe I'm missing something?

I bought an '82 head for my '75 blocks because it came with valves, rocker assembly, and a chance at passing a magniflux test, etc. If I use it, I'll install correct pistons (flat-topped). The older block and the newer head are compatible as far as oiling, but, they are not compatible as far as displacement/compression.
 
Grayscale said:
Toyota Parts Deal suggests that 11101-61031 works for '76 to 8/80 (domed pistons as per SOR)? Maybe I'm missing something?

I bought an '82 head for my '75 blocks because it came with valves, rocker assembly, and a chance at passing a magniflux test, etc. If I use it, I'll install correct pistons (flat-topped). The older block and the newer head are compatible as far as oiling, but, they are not compatible as far as displacement/compression.
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Thats what I found as well.. I think its the same casting number on the current head actually. My block is a 1978 with domed pistons. I will double check this evening to confirm the casting number on the current head. It could be 61030. Just now Realizing it that it has the missing valve spring zipp tied to the block too. I wonder why the valve is missing. maybe they lost it. maybe it was burnt. IDK. I am looking forward to picking it up in a couple of weeks.


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Roastchestnuts said:
I am looking for that next project haha. I really want to find a good willys cj2 or m38. I would love to rebuild one of those. they seem so similar to the fj40s but smaller.
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X2
Solving the issue of squeezing valves into the bore of the cylinder, the Willys Hurricane 4-cylinder has been one of intrigue to me. Found under the hood of the CJ3B, the engine compartment had a few inches of additional hood-height to accommodate the taller Hurricane engine, compared to its predecessors. By far the coolest looking body of any 4x4 vehicle, apparently Aqualu Industries make an aluminum reproduction of the body, and MD Juan Industries advertises a reproduction 3B body and 3B frame. If there is any kind of custom build that I would get into, it would be the CJ3B.
 
Grayscale said:
X2
Solving the issue of squeezing valves into the bore of the cylinder, the Willys Hurricane 4-cylinder has been one of intrigue to me. Found under the hood of the CJ3B, the engine compartment had a few inches of additional hood-height to accommodate the taller Hurricane engine, compared to its predecessors. By far the coolest looking body of any 4x4 vehicle, apparently Aqualu Industries make an aluminum reproduction of the body, and MD Juan Industries advertises a reproduction 3B body and 3B frame. If there is any kind of custom build that I would get into, it would be the CJ3B.
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and then there are the diesel mitsubishi licensed copys of the cj3b! I love the cj3b actually. there is one in the state for sale it looks nice! I have been eyeballing it but its out of my budget right now. I need somthing that needs more work haha.

1957 Willys cj3b - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1583236339238065/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A0b57921c-e1e2-4ffa-881c-d9eec7d01d50
 
haha So I had forgotten with all thats going on in in my life, the other night during thanksgiving I bought a pertronix coil.. just showed up today. a beer driven purchase for sure. I don't know why I bought it. my coil works fine. It do have the pertronix gizmo in the dizzy. Well once I get the headgasket/head done I guess Ill try this pertronix unit out.
 
I did the same thing. I suppose the advertising of a hotter spark or whatever worked. I also like the idea of "matching" stuff I guess.
Roastchestnuts said:
haha So I had forgotten with all thats going on in in my life, the other night during thanksgiving I bought a pertronix coil.. just showed up today. a beer driven purchase for sure. I don't know why I bought it. my coil works fine. It do have the pertronix gizmo in the dizzy. Well once I get the headgasket/head done I guess Ill try this pertronix unit out.
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KennyBob said:
I did the same thing. I suppose the advertising of a hotter spark or whatever worked. I also like the idea of "matching" stuff I guess.
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yeah maybe thats what it was. It is a good idea to have a back up either way though I guess.
 
Just thought I would share. I was digging through some old photos and found these shots of the little fire truck, my parents and brother, and the old white early 1991 fj80 land cruiser! I miss that one!

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a couple of updates on the salt wagon: I got my headgasket in and it seems better than the one from itm for sure. I have an intake gasket coming. I got the head location pins for the new head. I am picking up the new head on the 23rd.

The headgasket does seem to be worse the few times i have started it up to move it in the yard. I have noticed more white smoke. before was just a puff at start up. now it pushes white smoke when you romp on it. I have noticed more condensation under the cap although that could just be normal. It also seems to be more difficult to get started. I mean moot point as I know I will be pulling the head soon to replace the gasket at the very least. going to pull the head this weekend so I can get my current head to a machine shop.

I did just get a starter to frame ground strap. I should have just made one though. I have not installed it yet.
 
I would not fire it up. Harder to get oil/coolant gunk out if it congeals
 
Pulled the head today with the help of my automotive class. It was really cool seeing them excited to work on it. Figured It could also be as much as a learning opportunity for them as it is for me.

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We did get the head off. I am pretty sure it was leaking between two cylinders and into one of the coolant jacket holes. however its not blairingly obvious. What is VERY obvious is that it was chewing up some oil. Makes me think the valve guides themselves are trash.

I did find some more oil than I would have expected in the intake. enough where you could get oil on your fingers.
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Ill be sure to post some pictures later. of the head.
 
so some updates and some things found when I pulled the head. The failure seems to be a coolant pasage between just off of cylinder number 5. the head gasket did not come off pretty so its hard to tell 100% but this is my best guess.

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I have noticed in the last few months its been drinking more oil again. briefly it seemed to stop after the valve stem seals. but then started again but worse. what i found makes this make sense. the valve seals on the intake valves on cylinder 1 and 2 had some issues. the rubber part had just been riding up and down on the valve. these were NEW oem Valve seals! I did install these and it could have been me but they seemed all good when I installed them.

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I doo think valve guides are worn though. and need replacing too. the new head has new guides so thats exciting.


other good news I ran a 240 and 120 line to the shed. Hopfully I will be able to run some more tools out of the shed here soon.

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Roastchestnuts said:
so some updates and some things found when I pulled the head. The failure seems to be a coolant pasage between just off of cylinder number 5. the head gasket did not come off pretty so its hard to tell 100% but this is my best guess.

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I have noticed in the last few months its been drinking more oil again. briefly it seemed to stop after the valve stem seals. but then started again but worse. what i found makes this make sense. the valve seals on the intake valves on cylinder 1 and 2 had some issues. the rubber part had just been riding up and down on the valve. these were NEW oem Valve seals! I did install these and it could have been me but they seemed all good when I installed them.

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I doo think valve guides are worn though. and need replacing too. the new head has new guides so thats exciting.


other good news I ran a 240 and 120 line to the shed. Hopfully I will be able to run some more tools out of the shed here soon.

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I’d agree that’s where (at least 1 spot anyway) your coolant and combustion are joining. You can see the metal ring has combustion residue, which it’s going there. Anything suspicious on the head or block in that same spot?
 
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