About 11+ inches from center of the mirror will be these loops?
Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
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- Thread starter
- #142
No loops for sure. I wonder if I can fab some up or find a windshield that does have them and get them off or soothing.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
My ‘65 doesn‘t have the windshield hold down hooks, loops or pads, same as yours. This has been a debated thing as to why some have them and others don’t. I have the factory heater with defrost, so to even fold down the windshield the defrost ducts have to be removed. Very much a PITA.
I think your seal orientation is correct from what I can tell from your pics. The front lip splays forward and the back lip splays backward against the roof. A moderate PITA to get it to do that, esp. if it’s new and cold. First pic is from city racer’s website, which is the seal I think you have iirc. The idea is for it to be a channel to direct any water to and out the ends to the outside of the vehicle.
Here’s a good pic of @dmaddox ’s build and you can see how those lips are splayed out a bit. The rearward one is the buggerist. (Yes that’s a 45 but same seal)
And here’s how I coaxed mine to splay out a bit, in nice summer heat. Even so was still a bit of a wrestling match to get it splayed properly against the roof.
Words of the day: splayed and buggerist
I think your seal orientation is correct from what I can tell from your pics. The front lip splays forward and the back lip splays backward against the roof. A moderate PITA to get it to do that, esp. if it’s new and cold. First pic is from city racer’s website, which is the seal I think you have iirc. The idea is for it to be a channel to direct any water to and out the ends to the outside of the vehicle.
Here’s a good pic of @dmaddox ’s build and you can see how those lips are splayed out a bit. The rearward one is the buggerist. (Yes that’s a 45 but same seal)
And here’s how I coaxed mine to splay out a bit, in nice summer heat. Even so was still a bit of a wrestling match to get it splayed properly against the roof.
Words of the day: splayed and buggerist
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Skreddy
SILVER Star
Idaho mountain landscape….. heart emoji.My ‘65 doesn‘t have the windshield hold down hooks, loops or pads, same as yours. This has been a debated thing as to why some have them and others don’t. I have the factory heater with defrost, so to even fold down the windshield the defrost ducts have to be removed. Very much a PITA.
I think your seal orientation is correct from what I can tell from your pics. The front lip splays forward and the back lip splays backward against the roof. A moderate PITA to get it to do that, esp. if it’s new and cold. First pic is from city racer’s website, which is the seal I think you have iirc. The idea is for it to be a channel to direct any water to and out the ends to the outside of the vehicle.
View attachment 3191192
Here’s a good pic of @dmaddox ’s build and you can see how those lips are splayed out a bit. The rearward one is the buggerist. (Yes that’s a 45 but same seal)
View attachment 3191216
And here’s how I coaxed mine to splay out a bit, in nice summer heat. Even so was still a bit of a wrestling match to get it splayed properly against the roof.
View attachment 3191217
Words of the day: splayed and buggerist
Great tech in there too!
- Thread starter
- #145
An update: I have the top back on the land cruiser. Replaced the gasket under the windshield and the one above it. I cant wait for summer and having the top off my land cruiser. It was surprisingly easy. I was expecting alot more fuss.
I have a break coming up from teaching. starting this Thursday. I will have a few free days before I will be doing Holliday family stuff. a couple of things that I will be doing will be measuring out my patch panels. Possibly starting to cut the rust out. I am not sure I want to start welding in things till after the holidays. anybody have any recommendations with sheet metal cutting tools?
Before that I will be probably trying to reattach the rear scissor door. I have not done it yet because the little broken 9 shaped hinge (the one that is the reason its not attached) is stuck on the upper hinge. I suspect it broke because the hinge was frozen when somebody tried to open or close the hatch. I am trying to decide the best way to get it off. I tried heating it up and did nothing to loosen it. A very small puller might work but I cant find anything that would fit nice enough to get it. I might try and cut it off. I gotta be carful not to damage it while doing so.
Ill post some more pictures soon too!
I have a break coming up from teaching. starting this Thursday. I will have a few free days before I will be doing Holliday family stuff. a couple of things that I will be doing will be measuring out my patch panels. Possibly starting to cut the rust out. I am not sure I want to start welding in things till after the holidays. anybody have any recommendations with sheet metal cutting tools?
Before that I will be probably trying to reattach the rear scissor door. I have not done it yet because the little broken 9 shaped hinge (the one that is the reason its not attached) is stuck on the upper hinge. I suspect it broke because the hinge was frozen when somebody tried to open or close the hatch. I am trying to decide the best way to get it off. I tried heating it up and did nothing to loosen it. A very small puller might work but I cant find anything that would fit nice enough to get it. I might try and cut it off. I gotta be carful not to damage it while doing so.
Ill post some more pictures soon too!
sterling
SILVER Star
I cut out and replaced my passenger floor pan, and inner and outer rockers last year.
Just my two cents.
Wait to cut anything until you are ready to have the truck down for a while. I waited on parts and there was some "while you are there" stuff to replace.
Tools:
This Harbor Freight saw was useful at times(seems to be on clearance). It will bind and have to be reset some
.It uses its own size discs, stock up.
www.harborfreight.com
A 4" electric grinder with cut off wheels and flap discs can get most of the work done. Small Milwaukee recip. saw may help as well, M12 series.
Don't under estimate a Dremel tool with cutting and grinding discs for precise cuts in tight places.
Great truck you have and a great place to use it!
Just my two cents.
Wait to cut anything until you are ready to have the truck down for a while. I waited on parts and there was some "while you are there" stuff to replace.
Tools:
This Harbor Freight saw was useful at times(seems to be on clearance). It will bind and have to be reset some
.It uses its own size discs, stock up.Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
A 4" electric grinder with cut off wheels and flap discs can get most of the work done. Small Milwaukee recip. saw may help as well, M12 series.
Don't under estimate a Dremel tool with cutting and grinding discs for precise cuts in tight places.
Great truck you have and a great place to use it!
- Thread starter
- #147
I cut out and replaced my passenger floor pan, and inner and outer rockers last year.
Just my two cents.
Wait to cut anything until you are ready to have the truck down for a while. I waited on parts and there was some "while you are there" stuff to replace.
Tools:
This Harbor Freight saw was useful at times(seems to be on clearance). It will bind and have to be reset some
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
A 4" electric grinder with cut off wheels and flap discs can get most of the work done. Small Milwaukee recip. saw may help as well, M12 series.
Don't under estimate a Dremel tool with cutting and grinding discs for precise cuts in tight places.
Great truck you have and a great place to use it!
This time of the year is a good time to be working on it. I am daily driving it right now but I can get by without it. One of the things I should go ahead and buy is new body mounts. I think the ones at the rear sill are probably shot. I did buy a rear sill and sill cover from CCOT along with some patch panels for the rear tub and quarter panel patches. It will make me feel so much better driving it after fixing the rear tub. I actually have a reciprocating Milwaukee saw I did not even think about that. Need to buy some bi metal blades for it. But that will make some of the cutting a little easier. and I actually bought a dremel tool to install a snorkel on my kzj78. It actually worked really well but burned through some cutoff disks quick.
I know I got to buy some weld through primer and some primer for when I am done.
I am loving this fj40 though. Its so much fun to drive. and even though i feel like it gets a lot of hate, I love the three speed. makes driving around my town really easy. most of the speedlimits are 25mph witch makes it easy to use too.
- Thread starter
- #148
I got this little F#@er off the old skissor door yesterday. I did not have much time before it got dark but I managed to at lest get this peice off. Its huge for me because its the only thing holding me up from reattaching the hatch. Thankfully @Grayscale found me a couple of replacements. I think this hinge was seized when a some point sombody tried to open or close the rear hatch causing this part to break. I cut it down pretty close to the pin and then drove a wedge in to split it. Had to do it a couple of times. Worked out thankfully and the only thing damaged was the broken part.
Most of us have never seen anything before '68 up close, and being worked on.
- Thread starter
- #150
Haha good point. Ill post some better pictures this afternoon.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Let me know if you need any pics of an installed bifold door, I’ve got one on my ‘65. How are the bottom rollers on yours? I’ve had to replace mine with roller bearings (drill and tapped the mount for a small bolt) as the OEM ones are NLA.
This is one of my favorite 40s, and it’s so simple
- Thread starter
- #153
if you have some pics go ahead and post them. That would be a great help thank you! I found a few pictures but I am unsure how the little hook things install. My rollers are OK but I am sure I will need to replace them soon though as they are original. Do you have info on the parts or the size of the roller berings you used to fix those rollers? they look to be a similar size to a skateboard bearing actually. My plan is to fit it to the land cruiser and when it gets warmer in summer I am going to pull the top back off and start to restore the hard top.
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- Thread starter
- #154
Its like a tractor that can go fast haha. I love the older ones too. The only other toyota that I would love to own one day would be a toyota stout truck. Toyotas answer to the c10 chevy. The older fj55s are cool too. Love the idea of a full bench seat in the front with a column 3speed.
- Thread starter
- #155
Yesterday I finally got my Bifold door back on. It was not so bad after I understood how it installed. Now I will be paying a visit to CIty Racers to buy the weatherstripping. Obviously the ones on the door are shot. You can see in the pictures the part at the top (you can see on the inside photo) thats painted primer gray is the part I had to have to put the scissor/bifold/guillotine door back on. They seem prone to crack. @Grayscale I think those 9 shaped brackets are prone to break because while folded they put alot of stress on the brackets. you can see them flexing when you fold the door up. My guess is they added the hooks Like the one in the second photo to relieve stress on those brackets while you are driving with the bifold door folded up.
Next I went down the rabbit hole again and started to replace the weather stripping on the passenger door. More pictures to come on that. I really like the design of the weather stripping on these early fj40 doors. Its simple and seems to work.
Next I went down the rabbit hole again and started to replace the weather stripping on the passenger door. More pictures to come on that. I really like the design of the weather stripping on these early fj40 doors. Its simple and seems to work.
- Thread starter
- #156
I have been smelling gas fumes in the cab (more so when filled up). Its not overwhelming but its certainly there. enough where my fiance rolls down the window. Anybody know of any common places to check on the gas tank for leaks/ seeping? I am guessing maybe the sending unit. I didn't notice anything when I had the seat out though. I thought originally it was there from the leaky old carb but I am still noticing it with the new carb that is not leaking fuel everywhere.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I’d check:
Fuel filler into tank
Overflow/vent for tank fill
Sending unit sealing
Fuel feed line and connections where goes through body
Return line (if you have one)
That’s a start.
Fuel filler into tank
Overflow/vent for tank fill
Sending unit sealing
Fuel feed line and connections where goes through body
Return line (if you have one)
That’s a start.
- Thread starter
- #158
Started to tear into the rear sill this afternoon. I have not decided If I want to keep going or wait till after Christmas. I will be leaving in 2 days to see family. Any tips for cutting and or issues anybody has had with rear sill repair? Or issues I should expect? I am anticipating not being able to drive the cruiser for a week or two or more while I am working. I dont want to rush it.
In taking the talegate hinges and spare tire catches off the rear tub I only broke 11 screws and bolts haha. seems the upper hinges were fine. and the top screws on the lower hinges were fine. but all the lower screws on the lower hinges broke. all 4 bolts holding the lower spare tire hinge broke too. very not surprised and no big deal. Planning on replacing all that hardware anyway.
I started doing some measuring and marking spot welds to drill out. At some point somebody tried repairing the rear floor of the tub about where the rear sill cover will weld up. They did a pretty bad job with it. defiantly a farm weld repair haha. I am not really sure why it was done the way it was though its almost like sombody started to repair the rear sill and gave up. Ill probably have to get creative in repairing that as its pretty much on the line where Ill cut to install the sill cover.
I almost fogot to mention. One of my spare tire mount hinges is frozen. does anybody have any tips on getting it free? I took the castle nut off and put some heat to it but no luck. right now its soaking in some diesel to see if it will soak in and get it free.
The new parts waiting patiently for me to weld them in.
In taking the talegate hinges and spare tire catches off the rear tub I only broke 11 screws and bolts haha. seems the upper hinges were fine. and the top screws on the lower hinges were fine. but all the lower screws on the lower hinges broke. all 4 bolts holding the lower spare tire hinge broke too.
very not surprised and no big deal. Planning on replacing all that hardware anyway.I started doing some measuring and marking spot welds to drill out. At some point somebody tried repairing the rear floor of the tub about where the rear sill cover will weld up. They did a pretty bad job with it. defiantly a farm weld repair haha. I am not really sure why it was done the way it was though its almost like sombody started to repair the rear sill and gave up. Ill probably have to get creative in repairing that as its pretty much on the line where Ill cut to install the sill cover.
I almost fogot to mention. One of my spare tire mount hinges is frozen. does anybody have any tips on getting it free? I took the castle nut off and put some heat to it but no luck. right now its soaking in some diesel to see if it will soak in and get it free.
The new parts waiting patiently for me to weld them in.
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- Thread starter
- #159
Didn't get a-lot done today. I adjusted the parking break. and I drilled out a few spot welds.
Can anybody identify this heater box? Its missing some pieces I think. It works though. I know my land cruiser was made in august of 1964 if that helps. Direguard the radio bezle. I am going to take that out soon.
Can anybody identify this heater box? Its missing some pieces I think. It works though. I know my land cruiser was made in august of 1964 if that helps. Direguard the radio bezle. I am going to take that out soon.
It kind of looks like a Hup brand heater that's obviously missing the front cover.
