Sad Day For My 91 FJ80 | Tranny Went Out, Won't Start

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Ok, finally got a neighbor to help crank. NO SPARK at spark plug to ground. I tested the distributor connector as per the FSM and it FAILED. I believe I need a new distributor? Any vendor recommendations? Are there rebuild kits for our distributors? I like to always keep a rebuilt backup of a replaced part if possible.
Screenshot 2026-06-26 at 6.19.13 PM.webp
 
Ok, finally got a neighbor to help crank. NO SPARK at spark plug to ground. I tested the distributor connector as per the FSM and it FAILED. I believe I need a new distributor? Any vendor recommendations? Are there rebuild kits for our distributors? I like to always keep a rebuilt backup of a replaced part if possible.View attachment 4166565
What were your readings across the 2 coils?
Is there corrosion inside the distributor?
 
What were your readings across the 2 coils?
Is there corrosion inside the distributor?
I get .6 on the coil resistance. Yes, the distributor is quite corroded inside with rust and grease. That alone makes me want to replace it.
 
I get .6 on the coil resistance. Yes, the distributor is quite corroded inside with rust and grease. That alone makes me want to replace it.
.6 ohms? .6 K ohms?
How was your meter set up and on what range?
Most inexpensive meters are not particularly good at reading low resistances. It helps if the meter has a "zero" function so you can zero out the leads.

The inside of a distributor should be fairly clean. There are 2 vent ports on the OEM cap that run from the firewall (fresh air) to the manifold (vacuum). This keeps air circulating inside the housing to avoid condensation. That's why it's important to replace the cap packing gasket as I mentioned in a previous post.
The 3FE distributor sits low and next to the side cover which is a good place for leaks.
 
.6 ohms? .6 K ohms?
How was your meter set up and on what range?
Most inexpensive meters are not particularly good at reading low resistances. It helps if the meter has a "zero" function so you can zero out the leads.

The inside of a distributor should be fairly clean. There are 2 vent ports on the OEM cap that run from the firewall (fresh air) to the manifold (vacuum). This keeps air circulating inside the housing to avoid condensation. That's why it's important to replace the cap packing gasket as I mentioned in a previous post.
The 3FE distributor sits low and next to the side cover which is a good place for leaks.
Here is a picture of the multimeter setup. Is this correct ?
When I bought the truck years ago the distributor was corroded, one of the vent lines was missing and the packing was gone. I replaced all that and knew it would eventually need a new distributor.
IMG_1767.webp
 
Here is a picture of the multimeter setup. Is this correct ?
When I bought the truck years ago the distributor was corroded, one of the vent lines was missing and the packing was gone. I replaced all that and knew it would eventually need a new distributor.
That appears to be correct.
You're reading a dead short across that coil, but I find it hard to believe that both coils are shorted. Did it read the same across both coils?

You won't find a new OEM distributor for the 3FE as these have been long discontinued.
However, a used distributor from any 3FE equipped Land Cruiser (FJ62 or FJ80) will work, as they are the same part number (19100-61240).
 
That appears to be correct.
You're reading a dead short across that coil, but I find it hard to believe that both coils are shorted. Did it read the same across both coils?

You won't find a new OEM distributor for the 3FE as these have been long discontinued.
However, a used distributor from any 3FE equipped Land Cruiser (FJ62 or FJ80) will work, as they are the same part number (19100-61240).
Are you saying that the coil is no good because it is higher than the FSM range .41-.5 ohm?
 
Are you saying that the coil is no good because it is higher than the FSM range .41-.5 ohm?
The FSM spec is very wide. From 180 ohms to 1800 ohms.

A coil is basically a long piece of wire. Reading across a coil is usually a very low resistance.

Touch the 2 leads of the meter together and note the reading. Subtract that from the reading you get across the coil.

Coils can short (zero or close to zero ohms), or open (infinite resistance).

Your meter is reading a short.
 
Update. Dropped in a new distributor and it fired up. Transmission is fine, major relief. Doing timing and cleanup today. Thanks for all the advice along the way, couldn’t do it without ya’ll!
 
Update. Dropped in a new distributor and it fired up. Transmission is fine, major relief. Doing timing and cleanup today. Thanks for all the advice along the way, couldn’t do it without ya’ll!
Was hoping that would be the case with the tranny. Great to hear!
 
How do you guys get a timing light through all the cables to see that darn timing mark on the flywheel? Are y'all just going by feel? It was fairly easy to get a telescoping camera in there to set TDC with all the intake and distributor out of the way, but can't seem to get in there with the timing light. It runs smooth now as I set the distributor where the old one was going by the grease marks.
 
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