There is a YouTube vid. “Fj80 no start do not load parts cannon” that says the voltage light is the indicator. Not sure if your bulb is burned out but I would check the wiring around the fusible link and verily power actually traveling through the link. Ie voltage check
Sad Day For My 91 FJ80 | Tranny Went Out, Won't Start
- Thread starter jomichael
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Looking at some other threads your link may pass voltage but due to high resistance. You have a voltage drop that leads to a no start. Go to Toyota dealer and buy the set of links and replace. 1 hour job. Make sure connections are good and clean
- Thread starter
- #43
Are you referring to the fusible link(s)? If so, I had a new OEM backup that I installed last night and no volt light on dash. I will test voltage and resistance after work and post results. I really don't visually see any concerning issues with the wiring after the fusible link.
I will also try to recruit a neighbor to do another spark test they way you mentioned. The wife is out of town and she is my normal helper.
I was curious and pulled the grey fuse link connector. Pics before and after of dash lightning ingnition in on position engine not running. Car will not start when link disconnected but will turnover. Note I just drove this fj80 to work 20 miles and the temp fuel and volt gages work even with grey fl disconnected.
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Ok I looked at your original pics. Here is what I see. You have the check engine light on as I did so your fuse is probably ok. It looks like your charge lamp and trans temp lamp are burned out. I know on some cars the charge lamp must be operational for the alternator to work. Others could chime in for the fj80 requirement. The other thing is your battery voltage is much lower than mine when both cranking and not cranking. Maybe your battery is low voltage and not providing what is needed for the ignition system
Not trying to break anyone's balls here, but I see lots of speculation with no diagnostics to back anything up.
You have a no spark condition:
Fusible links have been verified good and the ECU is in a "ready state" (CEL illuminated with key in the ON/RUN position before cranking the starter).
Spark is developed from the pick up coils in the distributor that are fed back to the ECU and corrected based on sensor inputs. The ECU then feeds pulses to the igniter which feeds pulses to the primary of the ignition coil.
The secondary of the ignition coil feeds the center contact of the distributor.
Reseat the connectors on the igniter and ignition coil.
Are you getting +12 to the igniter (pin 3) and ignition coil (pin 1)?
The igniter and ignition coil are mounted to the same bracket on the right fender. This bracket MUST BE BOLTED SECURELY to the fender for a good ground and the igniter MUST be bolted to the bracket. The igniter WILL NOT WORK without proper grounding.
You mentioned in a previous post that you replaced the igniter. The OEM 3FE igniter has been out of production for at least 15 years. What did you replace it with?
Be certain the connector on the side of the distributor housing is in good shape and connected firmly.
Test the pick up coils in the distributor, then move to the ignition coil.
Both of these tests are in the Toyota FSM WHICH YOU CAN DOWNLOAD FOR FREE (for the 3rd time).
forum.ih8mud.com
You have a no spark condition:
Fusible links have been verified good and the ECU is in a "ready state" (CEL illuminated with key in the ON/RUN position before cranking the starter).
Spark is developed from the pick up coils in the distributor that are fed back to the ECU and corrected based on sensor inputs. The ECU then feeds pulses to the igniter which feeds pulses to the primary of the ignition coil.
The secondary of the ignition coil feeds the center contact of the distributor.
Reseat the connectors on the igniter and ignition coil.
Are you getting +12 to the igniter (pin 3) and ignition coil (pin 1)?
The igniter and ignition coil are mounted to the same bracket on the right fender. This bracket MUST BE BOLTED SECURELY to the fender for a good ground and the igniter MUST be bolted to the bracket. The igniter WILL NOT WORK without proper grounding.
You mentioned in a previous post that you replaced the igniter. The OEM 3FE igniter has been out of production for at least 15 years. What did you replace it with?
Be certain the connector on the side of the distributor housing is in good shape and connected firmly.
Test the pick up coils in the distributor, then move to the ignition coil.
Both of these tests are in the Toyota FSM WHICH YOU CAN DOWNLOAD FOR FREE (for the 3rd time).
Resources
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #49
Not trying to break anyone's balls here, but I see lots of speculation with no diagnostics to back anything up.
You have a no spark condition:
Fusible links have been verified good and the ECU is in a "ready state" (CEL illuminated with key in the ON/RUN position before cranking the starter).
Spark is developed from the pick up coils in the distributor that are fed back to the ECU and corrected based on sensor inputs. The ECU then feeds pulses to the igniter which feeds pulses to the primary of the ignition coil.
The secondary of the ignition coil feeds the center contact of the distributor.
Reseat the connectors on the igniter and ignition coil.
Are you getting +12 to the igniter (pin 3) and ignition coil (pin 1)?
The igniter and ignition coil are mounted to the same bracket on the right fender. This bracket MUST BE BOLTED SECURELY to the fender for a good ground and the igniter MUST be bolted to the bracket. The igniter WILL NOT WORK without proper grounding.
You mentioned in a previous post that you replaced the igniter. The OEM 3FE igniter has been out of production for at least 15 years. What did you replace it with?
Be certain the connector on the side of the distributor housing is in good shape and connected firmly.
Test the pick up coils in the distributor, then move to the ignition coil.
Both of these tests are in the Toyota FSM WHICH YOU CAN DOWNLOAD FOR FREE (for the 3rd time).
Resources
The igniter was aftermarket, I could not find a new OEM for reason you stated. I found a used one but it was ridiculously expensive. I will test the igniter and coil this evening. I did download the FSM the first time and have been following it. Thanks.
I did pull the charge relay and tested it and it is shot.
EDIT 7:00 CST: I pulled the coil and igniter out and sanded all mounting surfaces and reinstalled. With ignition in the ON position, I used a multimeter ground to the body and the positive in the high tension terminal and got 25.4V. Did I do that test correctly? The FSM said to test the positive terminal on the coil but I have to pull the damn plug to access the pin. Again, electrical stuff is my WEAKNESS! I would rather rebuild the 80 knuckle than deal with this crap.
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Hold spark plug in your hand and turn the engine over you will find out if it has spark or not simple easy test.
The charge relay's single job is to illuminate the charge warning dash lamp via a ground path. It has nothing to do with ignition and will not prevent starting.
- Thread starter
- #53
I'm about to do that just to put myself out of my misery.
I use my tongue. Works great
I've been shocked so many times you'll survive might scream a whole bunch of cuss words and jump around it a get ya going for sure.
Just to cover everything check your battery voltage and put on charger if low. With all the cranking with no start just charge it up. At least one unknown out of equation. And once you do get her running. Make sure battery is charging maybe it’s not and your charge bulb burned out so your not getting no charge indication
- Thread starter
- #57
Yes I have been charging it every day before I start cranking and testing.
I have fuel and I have power at the coil. I have tested the distributor gaps and verified they are in spec. This weekend I will test the resistance in the distributor connector and find someone to help spark test with a spark plug against the engine. We are closing in on a solution, I can feel it. Thanks for your help!
BTW, ordered a used charge light, it will be nice to have that working again.
Don't the cheap inline spark testers work? You know, disconnect a plug wire, connect one end of tester to plug and one end to the wire.
I bought one a couple years ago and have yet to use it. Was intending to use it on a friend's "no start" 1990 Ford Econoline yesterday but the beast actually fired right up for me.
- Thread starter
- #59
I'll have to look into that. My issue is my usual helper, the wife, is away and all my neighbors work late.
Had this on my 80 a few months ago. Bad brake booster. Pull the hose off the booster and plug it with a bolt.