Sad Day For My 91 FJ80 | Tranny Went Out, Won't Start

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Joined
Mar 20, 2021
Threads
45
Messages
283
Location
Allen Texas
It's a hot humid 90 in Dallas today, A/C blasting, auxiliary fan blowing, turned to get on the highway and downshifted, then no forward momentum. I managed to get to the side of the road. Engine was running but really rough. I put it in park then back into drive and was able to barely crawl into a parking lot. I then turned the engine off, unhooked the battery for a few minutes and then tried to start it again. Got crank with no start.
It's been very reliable for years, I drain and fill the tranny regularly with Sythentic Valvoline. No fluid leakage, level normal. No foaming or bubbles on dipstick. The kick down cable isn't broken or particularly loose.

I am at a complete loss as where to start? Any ideas?

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It is. Here is a vid of it cranking.
Your tachometer doesn't register while cranking.
I'm thinking igniter failure. Not uncommon after 35 years.
 
Check for vacuum leaks in the entire intake. Hoses that may have become disconnected. Cracks in all hoses. Cracks in the large intake bellows. Especially between ribs need to remove bellows to check. Aldo check the mass air flow meter is moving freely and connected. Could also be bad mass air flow meter. Auto zone. Has at good price
 
Could also be your idle air control valve. Check for you tube how to clean. Normally this would have caused rough idling and stalling. Can lead to stalling at highway speeds. Try starting while tapping on the throttle lightly to see if it starts. Some times can get it running even with idle control valve not working properly. But will run rough and stall
 
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Thanks for all the replies.
Update: Bought a new igniter and installed grounded to the fender and changed the EFI relay, still crank no start. pulled the distributor cap and noticed that the igniter rod was basically burned to the plastic (see photo) and thought, bingo!, but no. Bought an aftermarket cap and that didn't work (OEM on order). checked all hoses (almost all were replaced a while ago) no cracks. Cleaned the MAF. Still no start. Going to pull a spark plug next and see if there is any spark whatsoever tomorrow as I ran out of time.
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You're throwing parts at it without checking the most basic things first.
Spark, fuel, air, compression.
Determine which one you're missing and head down the correct path as opposed to guessing.

Be certain to replace the distributor rotor (19102-61240) as well as the cap (19101-61240) along with new packing (19127-61240).
 
You're throwing parts at it without checking the most basic things first.
Spark, fuel, air, compression.
Determine which one you're missing and head down the correct path as opposed to guessing.

Be certain to replace the distributor rotor (19102-61240) as well as the cap (19101-61240) along with new packing (19127-61240).
Guilty as charged.
What is your method for checking fuel? Do you crack the banjo bolt at the FPR to see if fuel leaks or is there a cleaner/safer method?
 
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Since my fuel pump died on my '97 a couple years ago, I would check to see if the fuel pump is working.
I'm starting to think the pump is my issue as I have replaced just about everything over the last few years except that. What was your method for checking if it was working or not? Not looking forward to that job.
 
I'm starting to think the pump is my issue as I have replaced just about everything over the last few years except that. What was your method for checking if it was working or not? Not looking forward to that job.
A friend and I did the diagnostic jumper test and he didn't hear the pump running. He's more experienced with auto repairs and has better hearing than I do. :)

I'm only a two banana mechanic and can't recall having any difficulties replacing the pump by myself. I was very thankful that dropping the tank isn't required. Not sure that would be something I'd want to tackle.
 
Just a heads up. Years back I had problems with my EFI relay failing when hot. The car would die or not start. Pic shows location. A search shows there is another relay controlling fuel pump. Best to jumper pump relay to get pump running or to see if pump failure. Check fuel pump fuse. With pump running by jumper the truck should start. Do a search for fuel pump relay on the 91 fj80. This forum and you tube has good information. The horn relay may be same. Check and if so swap and see what happens

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If fuel pump not working. Do search fuel pump opening relay. Apparently this relay is in cabin behind dash. Apparently you can jumper two terminals on the test connector under hood to jumper and get pump running. Terminals FP and B+ with key in on podition
 
Guilty as charged.
What is your method for checking fuel? Do you crack the banjo bolt at the FPR to see if fuel leaks or is there a cleaner/safer method?
The Toyota FSM has test procedures and troubleshooting procedures for every system on the vehicle and it's a free download.

Here are the pages you need:
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