Sad Day For My 91 FJ80 | Tranny Went Out, Won't Start

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FJ80HI said:
Just a heads up. Years back I had problems with my EFI relay failing when hot.
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Very common, but if that was the issue, he wouldn't have a CEL illuminated with the key in the ON position.
FJ80HI said:
A search shows there is another relay controlling fuel pump. Best to jumper pump relay to get pump running or to see if pump failure. Check fuel pump fuse.
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On an OBD1 80 Series, the fuel pump is run by the circuit opening relay which has 2 coils. The primary is fired from the starter circuit and the secondary is fired from the flap in the AFM opening. There is no fuel pump fuse. Fuel pump +12 comes from the EFI MAIN fuse that feeds the rest of the EFI system.
FJ80HI said:
The horn relay may be same.
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Negative.
 
@jonheld I tested fuel pressure and I'm looking at 40 psi. Once I get my OEM distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs I will do a compression test and spark test. Do you think a fuel pump could pressurize to 40 psi but then drop below spec when running? Obviously can't test that right now, but curious.
Appreciate any feedback.
 
jomichael said:
@jonheld I tested fuel pressure and I'm looking at 40 psi. Once I get my OEM distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs I will do a compression test and spark test. Do you think a fuel pump could pressurize to 40 psi but then drop below spec when running? Obviously can't test that right now, but curious.
Appreciate any feedback.
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I would think you would at least get one cylinder to fire at least once but you get nothing right? And your fuel pressure looks good.
 
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Are you getting spark?
Not sure how to check but could be your computer. Fsm should have testing. Also if you have spark and looks like you have fuel pressure about the only other thing would be injectors. Controlled by computer. There is a test for voltage to the injectors and if you have voltage but no injection. Then probably the computer. Are you getting any firing at all? I would would not think low compression would lead to engine suddenly dying. Also you mentioned transmission. Trans probably ok. You just lost the motive force. Probably something fairly simple and not too expensive to fix
 
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jomichael said:
@jonheld I tested fuel pressure and I'm looking at 40 psi. Once I get my OEM distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs I will do a compression test and spark test. Do you think a fuel pump could pressurize to 40 psi but then drop below spec when running? Obviously can't test that right now, but curious.
Appreciate any feedback.
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You need spark, fuel, air, and compression.
This is now the 5th time in this thread that you have been asked to check for spark, which should have been the VERY FIRST THING you check for.
 
FJ80HI said:
I would think you would at least get one cylinder to fire at least once but you get nothing right? And your fuel pressure looks good.
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Yeah, nothing. It's odd because it was running rough when I turned the truck off. Maybe it's time for an LS swap. LOL.
 
I have been solo for a few days so my normal helper is not here. My lawn guy just helped me and I can verify that I DO NOT have spark by following the FSM procedure. I tried to ground it on the inner fender and tried the valve cover.
(a) Disconnect high−tension cord from distributor.
(b) Hold the end approx. 12.5 mm (0.50 in.) from body of vehicle.
(c) See if spark occurs while engine is being cranked.
 
jomichael said:
I have been solo for a few days so my normal helper is not here. My lawn guy just helped me and I can verify that I DO NOT have spark by following the FSM procedure. I tried to ground it on the inner fender and tried the valve cover.
(a) Disconnect high−tension cord from distributor.
(b) Hold the end approx. 12.5 mm (0.50 in.) from body of vehicle.
(c) See if spark occurs while engine is being cranked.
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0.5 inch may be too much. Try taking wire off spark plug. Then stick wire into plug connector. Need both ends of test wire stripped then hold 1/4 inch from block metal and see if you get spark
 
Apparently the cam shaft sensor is located in distributor for these fj80 91s. You may have a distributor problem I have a couple Nissans frontier and xterra and have had failed distributors and engine acts like yours. The nisssn 3.3 liter from early 2000 years had can shaft sensor in distributor and failure in the Nissan is common
 
FJ80HI said:
0.5 inch may be too much. Try taking wire off spark plug. Then stick wire into plug connector. Need both ends of test wire stripped then hold 1/4 inch from block metal and see if you get spark
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I decreased the distance from .05 to almost touching and nothing. I'll try to find another helper and try out your suggestion. Thanks!
 
Check your AM2 fusible link. Does your low battery voltage light come on with key in on position? You need to check continuity with ohm meter. Not just visually

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A real basic test of the 3 fusible links:
FL1/AM1 (small ring terminal): if the dome lights work it's good.
FL2/AM2 (grey connector): if the CHARGE lamp lights when you turn the key to ON, then it's good.
FL3/FL MAIN (large ring terminal): if the brake lamps work when you step on the brake pedal, then it's good.
 
FJ80HI said:
This is fuse box left side of dash. I see 3 fuses for ecu and ign. Have you checked all
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The only fuse that matters is the 7.5 AMP IGN.
The ECU-IG powers nothing that will prevent starting.
There is no ECU-B fuse in US spec.
 
Do I understand correctly you removed the #1 high tension lead from the distributor and tried to start to check for spark? That is incorrect. The high tension n lead will never spark if it is removed from the distributor cap. Install the high tension lead back in the distributor cap. Remove the lead from #1 spark plug, remove #1 spark plug, install the spark plug on the high tension lead, ground the spark plug electrode to the engine and try to start. Check for spark at the grounded electrode. Best test in a low light environment.
Dan
 
Darne said:
Do I understand correctly you removed the #1 high tension lead from the distributor and tried to start to check for spark? That is incorrect. The high tension n lead will never spark if it is removed from the distributor cap. Install the high tension lead back in the distributor cap. Remove the lead from #1 spark plug, remove #1 spark plug, install the spark plug on the high tension lead, ground the spark plug electrode to the engine and try to start. Check for spark at the grounded electrode. Best test in a low light environment.
Dan
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Yes, that is what I did as per the FSM. Did I read this wrong? I will try it again your way and the way @FJ80HI mentioned. Unfortunately, I'm solo for the next week and do not have a helper to readily crank for me. I will try to recruit a neighbor to help me test again.

FSM​

(a) Disconnect high−tension cord from distributor.
(b) Hold the end approx. 12.5 mm (0.50 in.) from body of vehicle.
(c) See if spark occurs while engine is being cranked.
 
Morning update.
1) Checked ignition fuse, it's working
2) Checked distributor gaps and both are within spec. However, while doing so I noticed this clip resting in the distributor. Anyone know where this goes and what it does? I will pull up a diagram in the FSM to see if I can find where it goes.
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3) I tested the fusible link as per @jonheld mentioned and everything passed except for the FL2/AM2 (grey connector). I do not see the charge lamp light on when the key is ON. I had an extra fusible link (new) and swapped that in and still do not see the charge lamp light on. I don't recall ever seeing it on so I assume the bulb is burnt out even though all my dash lights work, even the D. Could the lack of the charge light be a clue?
4) replaced distributor cap and rotor with OEM. Inspected spark plugs and they look pretty good, threw new ones in there that I had.

Still crank no start.

Next step 1) Run another spark test using other processes mentioned once I recruit a helper.
Next step 2) Ran out of time and lacked help to do a compression test. Will try to find a recruit to help me this weekend.
Next step 3) Starting to think the igniter bit the dust as it was super hot that day and from reading posts on this issue that has come up a lot.

I do appreciate all the feedback and help on this issue.
 
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